John:
It very much depends on the specific conditions and results needed.
I have used the functional equivalent of this stuff:
formatting link
Following up the adhesive with solder. Given its thickness, it will handle about any current a PC trace can handle and more - but it is thick and when applied may not allow the board to fit into its slot. My process is to use a very sharp blade to cut the foil back from the edge, use a dull version of that same blade to remove the damaged foil down to the board, apply the adhesive foil, and solder the joint. Burnish the foil for good adhesion.
I have also used the K&S line of fine foils when I had limited wiggle-room for thickness. NOTE: A fine hand, good light, sharp blade(s) and patience are necessary, as well as high quality adhesives. I used ultra-thin supergl ue (ZAP brand), but I had to polish out the run-off in some cases when my h and was too heavy:
formatting link
._SL1000_.jpg
Again, finalize the electrical connection with solder.
Being an Architecture/Fine Arts major far back in the day acquainted me wit h all sorts of materials that are common, but not well known - that I have adapted to this hobby.
Best of luck with it!
Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA