Removing battery corrosion

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I got an old AM-FM pocket transistor radio which looked good and clean
till I opened the battery compartment. Very corroded carbon zinc
batteries were in it. After removing them, I cleaned off as much of the
corrosion as possible by scraping with a plastic stick, and scrubbing
with q-tips and rubbing alcohol. That got rid of most of it, and I was
surprised to find the battery clips are not badly damaged, but I had to
use a fingernail file (sandpaper strip) on the ends of the springs.  

Better yet, the radio works perfectly.

But there is still a little of that battery corrosion still in there. In
all the years I've worked on electronics, I have never found a perfect
way to clean up leaked batteries. Is there some sort of spray or a
chemical that will dissolve or deactivate that crap?  

Of course it has to be safe for the circuit board and components too. I
use the 91% isopropyl alcohol, so it evaporates quickly and leaves
little water residue behind. (Then leave it dry well before use).  


Re: Removing battery corrosion
On Sunday, February 11, 2018 at 5:53:57 AM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@tubes.com wrote:
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My sovereign cleaning method for this is to use a very strong concentration
 of baking soda mixed into distilled water. About a tablespoon of soda into
 a teaspoon of water to make a paste. This will neutralize any corrosives f
rom the batteries - but the material is highly conductive in its own right.
 So, after application with a small toothbrush or spiral brush, rinse again
 as yo have with distilled water, then alcohol to displace the water.  

If severe, and the alternative is landfill - I have been known to run an en
tire chassis through the dishwasher (one without an exposed Calrod), or use
 a bit of lye-based oven cleaner on a cotton swab - again rinse carefully w
hen done. Needs must when the devil rides.  

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

Re: Removing battery corrosion
snipped-for-privacy@aol.com says...
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small toothbrush or spiral brush, rinse again as yo have with distilled water, then alcohol to displace the water.  
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As most of the batteries used in portable devices are some type of  
alkaline the baking soda is the opposit of what should be used.  White  
vinegar is what you should be using to neutralize it.

I am not sure what the very old carbon zinc batteries used, it may have  
been a from of acid.  I know the car batteries use acid and the baking  
soda is good for that. Just not good for the  newer smaller AA,C,D type  
batteries.


Re: Removing battery corrosion
Ralph Mowery schrieb:

[...]
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Full ack!

Regards

Reinhard

Re: Removing battery corrosion
On Sunday, February 11, 2018 at 10:23:41 AM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote:

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LeClanche cells are acid-based (Ammonium CLoride) with an acidic pH (depending on the age of the cell) from about 6 (nearly dead) to about 4.6 (fresh). Hence the pointer to baking soda.  

Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) is about pH 8.4 when dissolved in water. Household vinegar is pH 2.4, and will tear copper apart.  

The neutralizing agent wants to be slow and mild. Vinegar (acetic acid) is pretty strong.  

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

Re: Removing battery corrosion
On Sunday, February 11, 2018 at 7:51:25 AM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

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entire chassis through the dishwasher (one without an exposed Calrod)

Back when projection TVs were plagued with coolant leaks, I used to soak th
e entire circuit board in an ammonia and soap solution.  But *first*, every
thing that can trap water must be removed.  Back then, that meant SMPS tran
sformer, HOT and flyback XFRs, inductors,etc.  A lot of work but it fixed s
tubborn symptoms and no call backs.

In a transistor radio, this means removing the IF transformers, audio trans
former, and even removing the gang tuner is a good idea.


Re: Removing battery corrosion
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the entire circuit board in an ammonia and soap solution.  But *first*, eve
rything that can trap water must be removed.  Back then, that meant SMPS tr
ansformer, HOT and flyback XFRs, inductors,etc.  A lot of work but it fixed
 stubborn symptoms and no call backs. "

I had a different technique. I washed it in hot water, then alcohol, then a
cetone with a brush and then blew dried it on hot to evaporate everything.  
And then sprayed with spray solvent to make it cold. That squeezes the shit
 out of the board, which is quite porous. Repeated about 4 times. The last  
time left the acetone or alcohol on it, heated it up with the blow dryer an
d waited a while until you could not smell it anymore.  

The worst part was when it corroded the copper traces. Can't solder to them
, must get all the way to the point where it is no longer dark and add a ju
mp[er.And also extra clean that area because there is more conductive shit  
in it. It is actually in the board and you can see bubbles when you heat it
.  

I remember old AA and AB GE chassis bubbling under the solder on the griple
tts which impeded their soldering. And those were about 90 % of the problem
s with those sets.

Re: Removing battery corrosion
On Monday, February 12, 2018 at 5:40:36 AM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:
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k the entire circuit board in an ammonia and soap solution.  But *first*, e
verything that can trap water must be removed.  Back then, that meant SMPS  
transformer, HOT and flyback XFRs, inductors,etc.  A lot of work but it fix
ed stubborn symptoms and no call backs. "
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 acetone with a brush and then blew dried it on hot to evaporate everything
. And then sprayed with spray solvent to make it cold. That squeezes the sh
it out of the board, which is quite porous. Repeated about 4 times. The las
t time left the acetone or alcohol on it, heated it up with the blow dryer  
and waited a while until you could not smell it anymore.  

Seems like a lot more work than a one step soak.  We received a bulletin fr
om RCA about coolant leaks, and they suggested ammonia based detergents as  
the most effective way of removing the coolant and it's associated contamin
ation.  I had a PTK195 that would do all sorts of very intermittent weird t
hings in the vertical circuit even after a regular cleaning.  I found a pro
duct called Parson's Sudsy Ammonia and used that diluted in a parts washer.
  The board were spotless and even glossy after drying.  


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letts which impeded their soldering. And those were about 90 % of the probl
ems with those sets.

My brother (the hero) used to hard wire those GEs through the griplets but  
I used to just solder the bottom, solder the top, then resolder the bottom  
again and give it a good spay of Flux-Off (the original stuff).  That took  
less time than it might seem and they never came back.

Re: Removing battery corrosion
wrote:

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This makes sense, but I have to ask why regular tap water wont work V/S
distilled water? I know that adding water to a car battery should be
distilled, (so it dont have any minerals), but in this case, it would
seem that any clean water would work.  

But maybe I am missing something. Yet, I do try to eliminate unnecessary
expenses, and distilled water adds to the cost, not to mention an extra
trip to a store, since it's not something I keep on hand.


Re: Removing battery corrosion
snipped-for-privacy@tubes.com says...
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unnecessary

What do you put in your steam iron? That's where most of my  
distilled/de-ionised water goes...

Mike.

Re: Removing battery corrosion
wrote:

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Steam iron? Do they still use those things?  
I recall my mother using one in the 1950s and 60s....

Either way. blue jeans and flannels shirts dont need ironing...
That's about all of us rural folks wear, aside from our camo hunting
clothes.

I did once hear of a guy trying to iron his birthday suit, after
drinking a lot of shine.... Luckily his wife ironed his head with a cast
iron frying pan before he damaged too much of his birthday suit. and she
then sent him to bed.


Re: Removing battery corrosion
snipped-for-privacy@tubes.com says...
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Nice. Like the story about the streaker in the old-folks home. Poor  
vision just made the on-lookers think his clothes needed pressing...

Mike.

Re: Removing battery corrosion
On Mon, 12 Feb 2018 08:38:22 -0000, Mike Coon

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I use tap water and let the lime accumulate until I can see it.  Then,
a rinse the iron with 75% water and 25% white vinegar.  Let the iron
get hot, and push some steam through the plumbing.  Also, I empty the
old water from the iron between uses.
<https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+clean+a+steam+iron

--  
Jeff Liebermann     snipped-for-privacy@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
We've slightly trimmed the long signature. Click to see the full one.
Re: Removing battery corrosion
It's *almost* not worth it. More than once, when the iron starts spitting out precipitate, we've thrown it away and bought a new one. I've cleaned them too, but it doesn't work 100% and pretty quickly builds up again.

We've bought new irons for as little as $12.

And you get to salvage a nice heavy duty cord for another project.

Distilled water does work really well of course, if you are religious about using it... at 89 cents a gallon I can't see where it adds to the cost of anything. A gallon goes a long way, in an iron or in cleaning electronics.

De-ionized water is a very different animal.  

Re: Removing battery corrosion
On Monday, 12 February 2018 20:54:14 UTC, Terry Schwartz  wrote:
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water from a/c is free


NT

Re: Removing battery corrosion
On Monday, February 12, 2018 at 5:37:06 PM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:
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And FULL of nasty biologicals.  No thanks.  


Re: Removing battery corrosion
On Monday, February 12, 2018 at 5:37:06 PM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

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If you are writing of condensate water - that is, perhaps, some of the leas
t 'healthy' water on the planet.  

a) It condenses on (mostly) aluminum that is exposed to (typically) 90% ret
urn/10% fresh air. The return air is freighted with whatever is in the hous
e/building/whatever that passes through typically very coarse filters. So,  
dander, dust, bacteria, grease, and whatever virus is in circulation. The f
resh air could have very nearly anything in it.  

b) Whatever corrosion exists on the fins becomes part of it.  

c) And it drains via channels and/or tubes that could be 'growing' in their
 own right. Even if anti-mold tablets are utilized, *THAt* chemical is no f
un either.

Perhaps over-use of condensate water might explain a great deal in your cas
e?

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


Re: Removing battery corrosion
On Tuesday, 13 February 2018 15:41:37 UTC, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com  wrote:
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ast 'healthy' water on the planet.  
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eturn/10% fresh air. The return air is freighted with whatever is in the ho
use/building/whatever that passes through typically very coarse filters. So
, dander, dust, bacteria, grease, and whatever virus is in circulation. The
 fresh air could have very nearly anything in it.  
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ir own right. Even if anti-mold tablets are utilized, *THAt* chemical is no
 fun either.

so in summary an ideal water source for irons that boil it in use.


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ase?

I'm not the one engaging in gratiutous insults.


NT

Re: Removing battery corrosion
:

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 case?
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No, but that was a question, not an insult - and the need for an answer is  
clearly demonstrated by your summary. Broadcasting fungicides, concentrated
 allergens and other nasty stuff not deterred by boiling, much less embeddi
ng same in one's clothing seems to me to be a poor practice.  

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA  

Re: Removing battery corrosion
snipped-for-privacy@aol.com says...
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anything in it.  
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It was the Legionnaires disease that was traced to the AC water.


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