Trying to fix a 32" RCA TV DVD Combo. model # RLCDV3282A-B.
When I plug in the TV does not turn ON. However a dim power light (RED led) comes On.
No clicking sound. No buzzing. Nothing. Plain and simply dead except for th e dim POWER light.
I am unable to locate specifically the bad component.
Checked most capacitors. No visible signs of damage or bulge.
Across the main 450v 68uF capacitor I get 90v DC. Mains has steady 110V AC.
Output connectors of the main power supply board gives 24, 12 and 5 v DC. N o problems.
However, the DVD board is not getting its 5 volt DC which actually comes fr om the main-board that has the graphic ic and all other video ouput connect ors like HDMI etc.
I am unable to trace where/why the 5 volts from this board is NOT coming to the connector. There is another set of long connector on this main board w hich receives power from the power supply and that shows the relevant 12v a nd 5 v Dc at that point.
So in short, the main-graphic board that also powers the dvd is not giving
5v dc output to the DVD player - which i believe also powers the switches - and thus the TV is perhaps frozen in standby mode ( I am not sure of that) No remote so I cannot take it out of the standby mode - also ALL the switc hes are non responsive.
Yes, just because there's no visible leaking from the electrolytics doens't mean they are good.
I got a 22" Acer LCD monitor going by replacing the bigger electrolytics. None were bulging, none were leaking, but the monitor sort of worked, but looked like it was resetting from time to time (suddenly the Acer logo would appear on screen as if I'd turned it on again). So I just looked at the larger value electrolytics on the power supply board, not more than six, and just replaced them, and it works fine. If I'd had an ESR meter, I could have narrowed it down. If replacing these hadn't fixed the problem, I would have pursued it differently.
from the main-board that has the graphic ic and all other video ouput conne ctors like HDMI etc.
to the connector. There is another set of long connector on this main board which receives power from the power supply and that shows the relevant 12v and 5 v Dc at that point.
g 5v dc output to the DVD player - which i believe also powers the switches - and thus the TV is perhaps frozen in standby mode ( I am not sure of tha t) No remote so I cannot take it out of the standby mode - also ALL the swi tches are non responsive.
It seems unlikely that you're getting only 90VDC across the PFC capacitor. If that's what you're getting, replace that cap. Ordinarily, you should b e getting about 160VDC across that with a 120VAC in standby, and 325 to 375 with the TV on.
It also seems unlikely that you'd be getting normal secondary voltages if t here was only 90V on the PFC cap, but anything is possible I guess.
The 5V for the DVD is a switched source and is not a pertinent test point f or checking a dead TV. Most likely it's not sourced from the 5V standby bu t the 12V run through an on board dc-dc converter.
The first course of action is to verify the voltage on the PFC cap as it sh ould never be anything less than 160. If it is, solve that first.
If it still doesn't start, check the main IC for runaway heat on plug in. These boards often get whacked through the HDMI ports and the main IC will short and get hot in a hurry. If that's what you're getting, it's easier t o replace the board.
If not, good chance the firmware is corrupt. Unfortunately, RCA (whoever i t is now) will not send you the .bin file. Might be an eeprom available on ebay.
s from the main-board that has the graphic ic and all other video ouput con nectors like HDMI etc.
g to the connector. There is another set of long connector on this main boa rd which receives power from the power supply and that shows the relevant 1
2v and 5 v Dc at that point.
ing 5v dc output to the DVD player - which i believe also powers the switch es - and thus the TV is perhaps frozen in standby mode ( I am not sure of t hat) No remote so I cannot take it out of the standby mode - also ALL the s witches are non responsive.
. If that's what you're getting, replace that cap. Ordinarily, you should be getting about 160VDC across that with a 120VAC in standby, and 325 to 3
75 with the TV on.
there was only 90V on the PFC cap, but anything is possible I guess.
for checking a dead TV. Most likely it's not sourced from the 5V standby but the 12V run through an on board dc-dc converter.
should never be anything less than 160. If it is, solve that first.
These boards often get whacked through the HDMI ports and the main IC wil l short and get hot in a hurry. If that's what you're getting, it's easier to replace the board.
it is now) will not send you the .bin file. Might be an eeprom available on ebay.
I second that.
450v 68uF capacitor I get 90v DC.
That sounds fishy. I would snoop around that area looking for flat caps , b urned resisters or open fuse.
I have 5 cents that says its a flat cap.
Also check for cold solder around the switching transformers. They are heav y and can wiggle lose if the TV is next to a home theater sub bass speaker , vibration.
Some boob ressurected it in mid-2015 to advertise their repair shop.
ANd now some other boob replies to the thread, no quoting of the original message so who knows where in the thread they are replying to, asking if they can get a new board for the tv.
The thread thus resurrected, the two of you proceed to reply as if the original post and problem was posted today, when it's over 2 years old. The poster, and hopefully the problem, are long gone.
DOn't reply to old posts just because google lets you, don't reply to old posts.
mes from the main-board that has the graphic ic and all other video ouput c onnectors like HDMI etc.
ing to the connector. There is another set of long connector on this main b oard which receives power from the power supply and that shows the relevant 12v and 5 v Dc at that point.
iving 5v dc output to the DVD player - which i believe also powers the swit ches - and thus the TV is perhaps frozen in standby mode ( I am not sure of that) No remote so I cannot take it out of the standby mode - also ALL the switches are non responsive.
tor. If that's what you're getting, replace that cap. Ordinarily, you sho uld be getting about 160VDC across that with a 120VAC in standby, and 325 t o 375 with the TV on.
if there was only 90V on the PFC cap, but anything is possible I guess.
int for checking a dead TV. Most likely it's not sourced from the 5V stand by but the 12V run through an on board dc-dc converter.
it should never be anything less than 160. If it is, solve that first.
in. These boards often get whacked through the HDMI ports and the main IC will short and get hot in a hurry. If that's what you're getting, it's eas ier to replace the board.
ver it is now) will not send you the .bin file. Might be an eeprom availab le on ebay.
, burned resisters or open fuse.
heavy and can wiggle lose if the TV is next to a home theater sub bass spea ker , vibration.
We certainly wouldn't have if we had noticed the "boob" was bumping an old thread. Okay, so we responded to a new post that was in a thread bumped by another poster. So we are guilty for not tracing back farther to check ear lier posts for dates posted. Hardly worthy of scorn.
This happens a lot. Someone asks the original poster if they are still sel ling that amplifier they listed 14 years ago, and others respond afterwards . It happens. The first is indeed a boob, the rest can be called inattent ive if you feel the need to call them out.
Besides, many solutions to problems can be resolved by looking at past post s. Anyone with a similar problem may find value in the added info. In thi s case, voltage across the PFC capacitor is a universal situation that affe cts many modern consumer electronic items.
And it's not like this group is a huge beehive of activity anymore like it was 15 years ago.
mes from the main-board that has the graphic ic and all other video ouput c onnectors like HDMI etc.
ing to the connector. There is another set of long connector on this main b oard which receives power from the power supply and that shows the relevant 12v and 5 v Dc at that point.
iving 5v dc output to the DVD player - which i believe also powers the swit ches - and thus the TV is perhaps frozen in standby mode ( I am not sure of that) No remote so I cannot take it out of the standby mode - also ALL the switches are non responsive.
tor. If that's what you're getting, replace that cap. Ordinarily, you sho uld be getting about 160VDC across that with a 120VAC in standby, and 325 t o 375 with the TV on.
if there was only 90V on the PFC cap, but anything is possible I guess.
int for checking a dead TV. Most likely it's not sourced from the 5V stand by but the 12V run through an on board dc-dc converter.
it should never be anything less than 160. If it is, solve that first.
in. These boards often get whacked through the HDMI ports and the main IC will short and get hot in a hurry. If that's what you're getting, it's eas ier to replace the board.
ver it is now) will not send you the .bin file. Might be an eeprom availab le on ebay.
, burned resisters or open fuse.
heavy and can wiggle lose if the TV is next to a home theater sub bass spea ker , vibration.
Your baby finger is staying on the shift key too long leading to double cap ital letters such as ANd and DOn't. I'm not complaining here , just saying.
This is a problem with some keyboards that don't require the key to travel all the way down before making contact. This causes a release issue for Shift.
I've tested this problem with a bunch of keyboards.
The one I'm using now has the problem.
Test case "Ru" typed using left-pinky-Shift-left-index-R; right index U:
The one that gets me is the accidental hit of the capital lock key. You are typing without really looking at the monitor. You eventual look up to see that the last 2 sentences are all capitals caused by a careless pinky finge r hitting the cap lock key. The cap lock key is just above the shift key so it is easy enough to do. Who designed the keyboard layout ?
from the main-board that has the graphic ic and all other video ouput conne ctors like HDMI etc.
to the connector. There is another set of long connector on this main board which receives power from the power supply and that shows the relevant 12v and 5 v Dc at that point.
g 5v dc output to the DVD player - which i believe also powers the switches - and thus the TV is perhaps frozen in standby mode ( I am not sure of tha t) No remote so I cannot take it out of the standby mode - also ALL the swi tches are non responsive.
Do you still have this TV or do you possibly have the base for it?
ElectronDepot website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.