Power supply for USB to SATA adapter smoked on first use.

I bought this item last year.

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I didn't have an occasion to use the power adapter until last month when I had a SATA notebook drive to check. (When I bought it, I was mainly interested in the PATA adapter which does not require the separate power supply as the power is derived through the USB port.)

I had everything wired to go when I plugged in the AC cord into the adapter. Kaboom and poof. I saw a nice spark from the AC terminals as it first made contact with the adapter. I remembered when I purchased it and did some research into the feed back of the seller and found a few similar comments like this:

"Plugged In..Smoked..Almost Caught Fire..Garbage..BEWARE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Buyer: USB 2.0 to IDE SATA S-ATA 2.5 3.5 Hard Drive HD HDD Converter Adapter Cable New (#331250999094) US $8.75"

I think if someone else reported this happening, then this must be happening often. Before I opened the case of the power box, I could hear what sounded like a part rattling inside. I think it what was left of the fuse. Inside there was a component labeled F1 on the pc board except all that was left were the two pico(?) fuse terminals (maybe it was just a thin jumper wire?). I also found that the pc traces had melted near the AC input. It didn't take long to find three of the four bridge diodes were shorted (I removed them from the board to check for other shorts as shown in the photo) as well as the switching power transistor, and a 0.22 resistor in series with it. The photo is here.

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I decided to contact the seller and let them know that their device was a fire hazard. I'm fairly certain that the internal fuse is supposed to blow before the pc traces melt. I got a response that offered me a free replacement even though it was more than a year old. I took them up on their offer and have received the replacement which I haven't plugged in yet. (When I do, it's going to be in a series with 60 watt light bulb!) The issue of it being a fire hazard wasn't address by the seller. I looked for some kind of government approved sticker but did not find one. Would it make any sense or would it be just a waste of time to make some kind of consumer report about this device? How large a fuse would have to be in the circuit to allow the traces to burn up?

Thanks for your reply.

--
David Farber 
Los Osos, CA
Reply to
David Farber
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How large a fuse would have to be in

The problem is, except for very special energy-limiting fuses, the fust does NOT limit the current before it blows. It allows whatever current the unit will draw for some amount of time before blowing. So, it is possible for even a 1A fuse to allow fairly thick circuit traces to burn through when the device has a dead short. It would not be unusual for a 1 A fuse to allow maybe 100 A in a dead short situation, for a few milliseconds.

Jon

Reply to
Jon Elson

I haven't done any UL certification in over two decades, but I expect that the test REQUIRES that the traces don't fuse before the real fuse.

It's widely suggested that chinese crap doesn't test for anything. They just slap on a fake sticker and sell it cheap. Cuz that's what we cheapskates want...cheap...

Reply to
mike

** The thin wire of a 1A fast fuse would normally melt and open well before a PCB track a few mm wide can do so.
** What happens with large overloads, like 100 times, is the fuse wire vaporises and initiates an arc from end to end of the fuse. Such arcs show negative resistance and so are very destructive - substantial copper tracks and wires vanish instantly until another fuse link or breaker trips.

Of course, special fuses types exist that can handle fault currents of thousands of amps without arcing - microwave ovens and Fluke DMMs use them, but not small appliances.

... Phil

Reply to
Phil Allison

The light bulb in series is a bad plan; the power supply will, in order to deliver regulated output power, draw higher current due to the lower input voltage, and fry the fuse, even if it isn't faulty.

Most common problem that makes the fuses fry: shorted diode in the AC rectifier (usually full bridge).

Reply to
whit3rd

Yup, that's the REAL problem, FAKE UL and other certification stickers! Very scary. My mother in law got some surge suppressor strips some time ago. They had UL labels. If you turned them over, the plugs would fall out, even the FIRST time they were used. No grip to the contacts in the outlets. I sent the info on these to the UL comments address, and never heard back from them. I expected they'd WANT to know about fake labels, but apparently there are tons of these.

Jon

Reply to
Jon Elson

The light bulb will limit the current to around what the bulb is rated for. That is a 100 watt bulb will limit at about 1 amp and a 60 watt bulb to about 1/2 amp. At low current the bulb is like a very low resistance and as more current is drawn and the bulb lights up it acts like a higher resistance.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

I was thinking of connecting the bulb without a load just to make sure there were no direct shorts before I plugged it in the very first time, not to use it like that in a real-world situation.

Thanks for your reply.

--
David Farber 
Los Osos, CA
Reply to
David Farber

Wouldn't all of the current have to go through the shorted diodes (1N4007) and shouldn't they show some sign of physical destruction? Other than being electrically shorted, they were physically unscathed.

Thanks for your reply.

--
David Farber 
Los Osos, CA
Reply to
David Farber

If a diode fails short circuit, it can be lower resistance than associated wiring or fuses (i.e. it cooks everything else in the circuit, but stays cool).

Reply to
whit3rd

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I have one exactly like that and of course I tested it when it arrived. It' s been working fine for several years running external hard drives for back ing up files. Before using the new one I would connect a 12V bulb to the ou tput as a load and see what happens when you apply power. Chinese quality c ontrol is almost non-existant, but when you get a good one, it seems to las t. What do you expect for less than 10 bucks?

Reply to
junebug1701

At any price, I would not expect it to blowup the first time I use it! If I do use a light bulb, I will start at the other end in front of the AC power input where the short was.

--
David Farber 
Los Osos, CA
Reply to
David Farber

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