part ID

I have a hand held HDMI generator in to repair, and I need a boost/buck con verter IC. I drew out the circuit but can't find an exact match. I'm pret ty sure I need a 5V output as the reg feeds the HDMI DC output.

Since this is battery operated and assuming it should run with weak batteri es, this should maintain a consistent 5V output whether the battery pack (4 X AA) is at 6V or below 5V

The IC is an SOT-23-6 case. Pin 6 is the DC VIN in, pin 5 is the out. Pin 1 is the SW pin (connected to the VIN pin via a 6uh inductor) and pin 2 is ground. The rest I'm not completely sure of, but it looks like pin 3 is the feedback and pin 4 is the enable (it's connected to the VIN by a 1 meg resistor).

The pin 5 feeds the anode of a Schottkey diode, the cathode presumably bein g the DC output as the cathode of this diode feeds a fuse near the HDMI con nectors and there is continuity between that fuse and one of the pins of bo th of the HDMI connectors.

This IC looks a lot like the circuit I drew out:

formatting link
ymlink/tlv61046a.pdf

The problem is that the max voltage allowed for that IC is 6V and four fres h alkalines at 1.6 each would exceed this or certainly push it to the absol ute limit. I can probably add a diode to drop the input by 0.6 but I'd lov e to find the original. Plus, the voltage selection equation would require a change of resistors on the FB pin and I'd have to eliminate the Schottkey diode.

Because the case blistered a bit, the print is hard to read, but it looks l ike VZVAC The Z could be a 7. The only letters I'm fairly sure of is the last three "VAC". In any case, I can't find anything searching on any comb ination of those letters/numbers.

I know it's a long shot but if anyone can point me in the right direction I 'd appreciate it. It's kind of tight in the case but as a last resort I ca n probably stuff a 5V fixed regulator inside.

Reply to
John-Del
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onverter IC. I drew out the circuit but can't find an exact match. I'm pr etty sure I need a 5V output as the reg feeds the HDMI DC output.

ries, this should maintain a consistent 5V output whether the battery pack (4 X AA) is at 6V or below 5V

in 1 is the SW pin (connected to the VIN pin via a 6uh inductor) and pin 2 is ground. The rest I'm not completely sure of, but it looks like pin 3 i s the feedback and pin 4 is the enable (it's connected to the VIN by a 1 me g resistor).

ing the DC output as the cathode of this diode feeds a fuse near the HDMI c onnectors and there is continuity between that fuse and one of the pins of both of the HDMI connectors.

/symlink/tlv61046a.pdf

esh alkalines at 1.6 each would exceed this or certainly push it to the abs olute limit. I can probably add a diode to drop the input by 0.6 but I'd l ove to find the original. Plus, the voltage selection equation would requir e a change of resistors on the FB pin and I'd have to eliminate the Schottk ey diode.

like VZVAC The Z could be a 7. The only letters I'm fairly sure of is th e last three "VAC". In any case, I can't find anything searching on any co mbination of those letters/numbers.

I'd appreciate it. It's kind of tight in the case but as a last resort I can probably stuff a 5V fixed regulator inside.

6.2v on a 6v IC is usually a goer.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

onverter IC. I drew out the circuit but can't find an exact match. I'm pr etty sure I need a 5V output as the reg feeds the HDMI DC output.

ries, this should maintain a consistent 5V output whether the battery pack (4 X AA) is at 6V or below 5V

in 1 is the SW pin (connected to the VIN pin via a 6uh inductor) and pin 2 is ground. The rest I'm not completely sure of, but it looks like pin 3 i s the feedback and pin 4 is the enable (it's connected to the VIN by a 1 me g resistor).

ing the DC output as the cathode of this diode feeds a fuse near the HDMI c onnectors and there is continuity between that fuse and one of the pins of both of the HDMI connectors.

/symlink/tlv61046a.pdf

esh alkalines at 1.6 each would exceed this or certainly push it to the abs olute limit. I can probably add a diode to drop the input by 0.6 but I'd l ove to find the original. Plus, the voltage selection equation would requir e a change of resistors on the FB pin and I'd have to eliminate the Schottk ey diode.

like VZVAC The Z could be a 7. The only letters I'm fairly sure of is th e last three "VAC". In any case, I can't find anything searching on any co mbination of those letters/numbers.

I'd appreciate it. It's kind of tight in the case but as a last resort I can probably stuff a 5V fixed regulator inside.

What is the make and model of the generator? Perhaps someone has one that can open it up and get the part number for you.

Reply to
dansabrservices

converter IC. I drew out the circuit but can't find an exact match. I'm pretty sure I need a 5V output as the reg feeds the HDMI DC output.

teries, this should maintain a consistent 5V output whether the battery pac k (4 X AA) is at 6V or below 5V

Pin 1 is the SW pin (connected to the VIN pin via a 6uh inductor) and pin

2 is ground. The rest I'm not completely sure of, but it looks like pin 3 is the feedback and pin 4 is the enable (it's connected to the VIN by a 1 meg resistor).

being the DC output as the cathode of this diode feeds a fuse near the HDMI connectors and there is continuity between that fuse and one of the pins o f both of the HDMI connectors.

ds/symlink/tlv61046a.pdf

fresh alkalines at 1.6 each would exceed this or certainly push it to the a bsolute limit. I can probably add a diode to drop the input by 0.6 but I'd love to find the original. Plus, the voltage selection equation would requ ire a change of resistors on the FB pin and I'd have to eliminate the Schot tkey diode.

ks like VZVAC The Z could be a 7. The only letters I'm fairly sure of is the last three "VAC". In any case, I can't find anything searching on any combination of those letters/numbers.

on I'd appreciate it. It's kind of tight in the case but as a last resort I can probably stuff a 5V fixed regulator inside.

t can open it up and get the part number for you.

It's an Atlona HD-800 and the location is IC1 - an SOT23-6 device at the bo ttom left edge of the board (with the HDMI jacks facing up). If anyone wan ts to take theirs apart they have to remove the silver buttons before slidi ng the board out.

I've fixed a few Atlona items and they seem to be bottom end. The commerci al account I have that uses them has had a lot of problems with them. Ever y time I contact Atlona, they are no help.

I talked to the owner of the generator yesterday, and I think they're going to order another generator from different company as they've had enough of Atlona products. They'll either use this as a backup or just donate it to me. Either way I'd like to get it going.

Reply to
John-Del

We tried using their Hdmi to Cat6 extender using shielded Cat6. A university wap, a few feet away, caused the extenders to malfuntion. We tried a different brand which worked perfectly.

Reply to
Chuck

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