One light in fluorescent lamp randomly starts

ic switchstart ballasts work fine with T12, T8 and a lot of LED tubes.

on average, 50% more costly than power in the US - one would think that en ergy efficiency would would be of greater concern to you than it seems to b e. We operate a 464 square meter center-hall colonial built in 1890 for US$

239/month (180 GBP). And we heat in the winter and cool in the summer. This includes heat, hot water, electricity, cooking, drying, and municipal wate r and sewer. Yes, we use a clothes line in the summer. But energy is dirt-c heap in the US relative to the rest of the world - not to suggest we waste it, but the only incandescent lamps we own are in the chandeliers. They too , are slowly giving way to LEDs.

At the risk of stating the obvious, a person that buys an ancient piece of lighting isn't looking for the peak possible energy efficiency. It already has linear fluorescent lights so is quite efficient anyway. Iron ballasts o n a small low power light only used some of the time consume a trivial amou nt.

could always fit LED tubes with a wire fitted to short the ballasts. I can' t see any compelling reason to though.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr
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Yabbut...

I take the Senator Everett McKinley Dirksen attitude: A billion here, a bil lion there, pretty soon it is real money!

We actually had honorable politicians mores-so-than-not back in the day. Su re, they still screwed by the numbers and stole what they could - but they also took their jobs fairly seriously. And it was DDE that created the term "Military Industrial Complex", and as a warning, not a description.

An honest politician is one who, when he is bought, will stay bought.

Simon Cameron US financier & politician (1799 - 1889)

Peter Wieck Melrose Park PA

Reply to
pfjw

|schreef in bericht news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com... | |I have this old fluorescent desk lamp from the 60s at the latest that I'm fixing. It weighs a ton, has been passed down from my father-in-law, and it just retro-|cool. According to him it's always worked, except the F15-T8 bulbs are possibly original and very worn out, and only one bulb ever lights. I've been told this |has always been a problem, and holding the start button for a long time will sometimes get both to start. I've never been successful but I don't like this and |want to fix it. | |Upon reverse engineering it I come up with this schematic (it's rough, drawn in Paint!): | | |

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| |I'm no fluorescent light expert, but how the start button is connected to both lamps seems odd to me, a little like directly paralleling LEDs or neon bulbs after |the limit resistor. If I disconnect one bulb, the remaining always starts. I doubt this design would ever work very well....would it? | |If I manually start each light by disconnecting the start button wires and momentarily shorting the two pins at opposite ends of each lamp, they each start |right up. My plan is to modify it with a DPDT relay with 120VAC coil so the start button drives the coil, and each lamp has it's own set of relay contacts. I'm |sure this will work, but.....WTF with the original design? Is this normal? I doubt it's even been modified, and see no good way to fix it without adding a relay |or a multipole start switch. | |I'm a little surprised to see some that seems this hokey (to me) in something this old.

In a similar case, replacing the startbutton worked for me. Still don't know how or why. (A little frustrating.)

Otherwise, seperate both lamps + ballasts and use two startbuttons.

petrus bitbyter

Reply to
petrus bitbyter

I have a funny feeling somebody used the wrong switch. I believe what you do manually, is what the switch does.

So, replace the switch with one designed to turn on a florescent light.

The desk lamp I have with that starting system is a single tube. Eons ago, the bas got painted and a new switch installed.

See

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for operation.

Here's another place to look.

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These use two ballasts for a two bulb system.

Reply to
Ron D.

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