This website discusses it, but never really identifies the part. This is the meter I am working on and I too wondered what the SA1 and SA2 parts are. I never saw that symbol.
Schematic on the webpage.
This website discusses it, but never really identifies the part. This is the meter I am working on and I too wondered what the SA1 and SA2 parts are. I never saw that symbol.
Schematic on the webpage.
Bear in mind Radio Shack doesn't make ANYTHING. They are a reseller. A lot of their gear, is branded Micronta or Realistic.
Secondly, Realistic and Micronta are Japanese suppliers. I wouldn't expect them to 100% follow US standards for schematics.
-- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com
Wild guess: spark gaps for protection.
Despite posting the forum link where they are identified as Surge Arresters, Tube Guy posted the "what are they?" question over here.
-- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com
No one on that forum CLEARLY said what they are. Just guesses..... Guesses are not real answers.....
Some sort of transorb, TVS diode perhaps. GH
Well, here's something 100% accurate: that meter is a piece of shit and of no real value to anyone who requires a good meter and knows how to use one. Total waste of time.
I have a whole pile of cheap meters as well as good ones. They're useful IME.
NT
Like I said..
clearly not.
El jueves, 23 de mayo de 2019, 1:13:10 (UTC-4), snipped-for-privacy@myshop.com escribi
e:
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The first message of the forum link posted by you, clearly stated that the "mistery part" was labeled 39ZR07, and looked like a "disk green cap".
A quick search with Google threw this:
So it's just a MOV.
t and of no real value to anyone who requires a good meter and knows how to use one. Total waste of time.
ful IME.
FWIW I bought them to dot them around in various places where formerly I'd have had to go fetch a nice meter or forego using one at all. They can go w here loss or damage are a risk with little concern. They've saved time & en abled quick easy repairs. I don't normally need accuracy or a CAT 3 rating to get something working. They paid back their cost (2.44 each) in a few da ys IIRC, an ROI that's hard to beat. Any engineer should be able to undersa nd the utility of that.
Yes I require accuracy at times, and have the datrons to do that. These tid dlers are not for those occasions.
NT
paid back their cost (2.44 each) in a few days IIRC, an ROI that's hard to beat. Any engineer should be able to undersand the utility of that.
I have 4 or 5 of the 'Free' Harbor Freight metes. Verified them against a Fluke meter that was verified against some very high accurate lab gear. The HF meters are not that far off and work fine especially for a go/no go test. Does it really matter if the house voltage is 120 or 123 volts ? I have on in my truck and some in places around the house as I don't want to go the shop on the basement for a better meter.
My HF meters are all pretty accurate, as long as the battery is fresh. My yellow ones do not have any low-battery indicator, so the only hint is when the readings do not make any sense (which may be a challenge for an inexperienced user).
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