Marshall G50R CD , practise amp, 1999

Should be simple 1/4 inch so. S/R bypass sw. fixing, but for removing the main board. I ended up graunching off the speaker cable clamp as it is inserted from the inside , not the outside and simple mole-grip compression job to remove it. (note to myself, next time confronted with this situation, try a small driver between black plastic retaining tongue and the hole in the steel and push inwards on plastic bulk, may work but not tried) A plain grommet will be going back there as wires are loop-through anchored plus solder to the pcb only 1.5 inches away anyway. How on earth did someone assemble as no clearance space, you cannot even see that area as surrounded by transformer and heatsink and casing. Just referring to the heatsink, made me realise they probably assemble board without LM3886T h/s and that goes in last. But then I would expect a couple of holes in the rear of the casing to facilitate screwing on , would need some sort of miniature flexible shaft or right-angle-drive screwdriver to tighten Maybe the mains transformer goes in last, but very short wiring loom to it and still you cannot see the speaker thru-hole area and awkward bent finger tip insertion. Anyone else confronted with this conundrum ?

Reply to
N_Cook
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I replaced the troublesome 1/4 jack in a couple of those but don't remember any conundrums.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
Reply to
Meat Plow

Perhaps you have the knack of pushing inwards these coupled together black

2part cable grips and then replaced them from the outside. I don't remember coming across a situation of having to push one inwards to release, rather than compressing with mole-grips and pulling from the outside.
Reply to
N_Cook

I wish it was a little clearer in memory but I don't recall anything of notability besides the 1/4 jack was red on the end.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
Reply to
Meat Plow

Please don't take this as a put-down or flame, because that's not my intention. I respect your technical expertise and troubleshooting ability, but when I read one of your posts, I have to read it several times before I can figure out what you're talking about. Your sentences are poorly constructed, and many times incomplete. It's a challenge for me to understand the problem, what you're trying to accomplish. Maybe others here in the group have the same problem and are reluctant to reply. There; now that's out of my system.

I'm not familiar with the amp, and it's hard to visualize what you're talking about, Are you having trouble removing and reinstalling a cable strain relief, such as the ones shown on a Mouser catalog page

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If so, there are tools (pliers, actually, and shown on the same catalog page) that are specially built for that task, and they work quite well, with no damage to either the chassis, the cable or the strain relief. The tools are a bit pricey, but they are worth the cost if they save you a few hours of labor over such a simple job. Don't know if any of the vendors in your area have these in stock, but Mouser does ship overseas.

Cheers,

--
David
dgminala at mediacombb dot net
Reply to
Dave M

( snip rest of this incomprehensible drivel)

** Mr Nutcase Kook is incapable of writing clear English - or thinking it.

The first sentence of his post ( see above ) is a nice example of how not to write.

.... Phil

Reply to
Phil Allison

ability,

I

here

Those are installation tools , maybe useable as extraction tools but doubtfully for the "blind" side extraction. No way they could be used at manufacture of these Marshalls even with absent heatsink and transformer ,without a serious bend in the shanks and probably longer shanks to clear the case metalwork

Reply to
N_Cook

No red-ended ones on this model

Reply to
N_Cook

Someone has taken a pic

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The speaker leads enter between number 2 and 3 white pillared W/W resistors, calling number 1 at the foreground. The underside metalwork is 1/2 inch below the pcb but somehow the strain relief clamp is inserted in that gap surrounded by the h/s and Tx underside metal etc

Reply to
N_Cook

resistors,

And just to clarify. Before you can remove the pcb you have to remove the speaker wire clamp as the wire has no slack between clamp and pcb loop anchor. Another manufacturing possibility is that foreground end face of the casing is not bent right-angled into shape until completing the speaker wiring, it is not fixed/spot welded at the corners, then you could use a standard insertion tool.

Reply to
N_Cook

I've replaced the LM Power Amp IC on several of these. The cable clamp grommets were on the right way round and no doubt fitted last, as thats the only way they will go on.

Maybe the aliens did it. Or its some kind of Chinese assembly line joke.

Gareth.

Reply to
Gareth Magennis

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