Marantz CD500

I don't know your Marantz model but I have a Yamaha CDX-500U that had a similar problem. When I finally got into it I found the drive belt from the motor had stretched. Replaced it with a slighty shorter one and now it is perfect. Hope this helps. Good luck. Cheers, Roger

I've just noticed my typo- it's a CD5000. Sorry.

Thanks Roger. I'm expecting a simple mecahnical fault, but can't get it apart at the moment :-(.

Well, I got it apart with a little force. The extension piece unclips when the tray is open. I think the tray mecahnism is worn- it works and than gets jammed sometimes. I think it will need a new mechanism. Does anyone have a source? I will JFGI, of course.

If the motor is belt driven (some decks use a belt for the laser positioning and eject motor, some are purely gear driven) then try removing the belt and soaking it in warm water for an hour or so and refitting it as this can re-shrink the rubber.

If it's gear driven then one of the gears may be split (usually the one one the motor) so it's slipping and not driving the next gear in the chain. If the motor gear is split then gluing it to the motor spindle with superglue may provide a repair.

It is unusual to have to replace a mech for drawer sticking, if that is indeed your problem. I got the impression from your original post though, that other than saying "OPEN" in the display, it didn't even try ?? The fact that prior to this problem starting to occur, the tray sometimes 'bounced' immediately after opening, is maybe a clue, as this problem on all makes and models, is almost always down to bad contacts on the tray position sense switch. I have had this fault cause a refusal to open or close, or to produce partial movement, on many different machines over the years. The exact symptoms can vary a little, depending on how the system control micro handles sensing the drawer position, and controlling the motor.

If the drawer genuinely is sticking, then usually, this can be sorted either by judicious use of an 'appropriate' plastic lubricant such as floil, or application of a wax furniture polish to the surfaces. A new belt should be fitted at the same time. Try not to use one that's too tight, as this can cause its own problems. There is one particular mech that is fitted to a number of players, where the drawer is retained by 'clips' which hook up and over the edges of the tray, and I have had wear here causing the drawer, which is driven from one side, to 'skew' in the claws, and stick. I have many times corrected this problem by applying gentle heat to the plastic of the claw, and bending it in slightly to reduce the running clearance, which then prevents the skew that makes it stick.

If you remove the drawer completely, be aware that there may be 'timing' issues when you put it back, as often, the moving and locking of the disc clamp or deck into place, is synchronised to the drawer position.

As far as obtaining another deck goes, you might struggle these days. I have not found Marantz to be the most helpful supplier of parts, usually operating through a third party spares agent. We often wait weeks if not months for parts. FWIW, Marantz gear is Philips, so you might be able to find something down that route, if not the direct Marantz one ...

Arfa

Usually there is a removable lip at the front of the tray. One has to get the tray extended out a little, then look underneath the front edge. A small screwdriver may be necessary to pry the plastic far enough forward to get past the keepers. Normally you can just loosen it by hand. Older models often secured the lip with a couple screws. This is generic advice only - I haven't seen yours. There is often a slit or opening of some sort underneath which allows a gear to be manually rotated to start unloading the tray. Once the tray starts moving past it's "locked" position, you can just pull it out farther. Some Marantz models are "special" and require more extreme disassembly just for access.

Mark Z.

I've fixed it!.

I found a tiny bit of plastic had broken off the drawer. It was sitting in the track of the gearwheel that drives the drawer- pic here:

It looked like it snapped off underside of the drawer.

I have no idea what it did as everthing works fine without it. Before removing it the drawer would physically jam solid.

I'm hugely pleased. It's a good player and it matches the amp physically.

Yep. Took me 3 or 4 goes to get right.

The transport is used in lots of Philips & Marantz products as well as variuos custom players it seems.

Thanks everyone for help and suggestions.

I'm happy to hear that. What I am wondering is that unless it really a good player, is how well will a 10 quid DVD player do in its stead?

My experience 12 years ago buying a CD player was that even the cheap Sony's were "cheap" and did not sound "good". I ended up buying a Sherwood (made in the UK, not Korea) because it matched the amp I was buying AND it was the best sounding one.

I literally listend to over a dozen different players that day and the Sony stood out as the worst and the Sherwood as the best.

Now that the DAC (digital to analog converter) chips have improved and gotten cheaper, are they better than the usual ones in the older units?

We rarely play CDs these days, most have been converted to MP3s and are played by a computer set up as a networked video/mp3 player. Once in a while my wife takes one off the shelf that no one wanted to listen to, and I never converted it.

Geoff.

Well, I tried that. I'd got a new CD in the post, and wanted to listen to it, so I dragged out the cheap & nasty DVD player from upstairs.

It sounded *awful*. Shudderingly awful. Like a low bitrate MP3 with muddy treble and no presence at all. Now, I don't have top-of-the tree stuff: a budget Marantz amp, the CD5000, some Gale budget speakers, and some OK cables, but the difference was stunning.

Still, at least it motivated me to fix the Marantz.

Thanks, the only one we have is connected to a TV set with built in small speakers. I was wondering how they would sound.

Geoff.