Hi,
I am servicing a LG model 26LX2D 26" LCD TV that is "dead" (won't turn on). The only sign of activity is a red blinking light near the remote sensor receiver.
I do not have a SM for this TV yet. I don't want to risk ordering the PS unit unless....
Has anyone repaired this model LG TV (dead)?
Thank You in Advance, John
PS, Remove "ine" from my email address
Not unusual for LGs to suffer bad PSU caps. Look first for any secondary side ones that are bulging, and if you can't see any, go over them all with an ESR meter. Probably about an 80% shot that caps are the cause of its troubles ...
Arfa
I had the same problem with a similar LG. The bulging caps were obvious.
There's also a problem when the flash ram with the firmware gets trashed in a power glitch. See:
Post #14.
If the TV suddenly refused to turn on, with no prior symptoms, it might be the firmware. If the TV was balky at turning on, or required holding down the button for excessive periods or multiple times, then it's probably bulging electrolytics in the power supply. The bulging electrolytics are a far more common problem.
You don't need to replace the entire power supply, just the bad caps:
There are vendors that sell shotgun replacement kits, but I can't seem to find one specifically for the 26LX2D. However, this vendor can prepare a custom kit for you:
(same as above)
If you're desperate:
$130 for the power supply. Ouch.
-- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
The service manual can be found at Elektrotanya.
PlainBill
On a lot of these LCD TVs, if you leave the cap problem for too long, with the startup getting slower and slower as the offending caps get worse, it can result in corrupt EEPROM data, so if the OP has only just started having trouble with it, there's a good chance that it's just caps. If he has been struggling to get it to come on for some weeks, then the fact that it won't now come on at all, *might* indicate that the EEPROM has now taken a hit ...
Arfa
Good point. I hadn't thought of it that way. Of what I can remember from trying to concentrate while the owners 2 year old was in turbo screaming mode, was that the TV was giving them on/off problems for about 6 months before finally it quit. The LG 32LX1D was purchased in about 2007, so it was well out of warranty. Same symptoms as the OP.
When I opened it up, the bulging caps in the power supply were obvious. I replaced two that were bulging, and three more that failed with the ESR meter. I didn't do anything with the other boards.
I've only fixed one LG that required reloading the firmware. I don't recall the model number. The TV just would not turn on after a power glitch. Prior to that, it operated normally. The customer (an engineer) then attempted to reflash the firmware using the wrong firmware, which bricked the TV. I found the correct firmware, and flashed it, which fixed it.
The proposed symptom analysis was my guesswork, which by your comments, it's going to work.
Note: I don't fix many LCD TV's. Maybe 3 per year. I fix many more LCD monitors (which are much much much easier).
-- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
I try to avoid TVs as much as I can, as well. The ones that friends and their friends have that they insist on bringing to me, are invariably over
42" and have the type of construction where 496 screws have to come out to get inside, as well as the stand having to come off so that it won't stay upright on the bench. A shop that I do a lot of audio work for, specialises in them. He has a dedicated bench, and a sort of padded 'cradle' made from copper plumbing fittings and tube, that a stand-less LCD or plasma TV will happily sit on for servicing.Arfa
Same problem. All the LCD TVs I've fixed arrived via friends and customers. Of course, I have to offer a major discount on my time, lifetime warranty, parts at cost, and assume responsibility for everything that happens to the TV in perpetuity. Fortunately, most of the family is on the other side of the planet, and my bad attitude is rapidly depleting the friends. At the present rate, I may soon run out of paying computah repair customers. All this may explain why I fix few LCD TV's.
I have friends and customers. The difference is that the customers pay me. Otherwise, they're the same.
Good idea. I don't have the bench space to handle a 42" LCD. To repair the last LCD TV, I had to perform an un-natural act, by cleaning off my workbench. I'm still recovering.
One thing nice about the 496 screws is that they actually use screws to hold it together. That's in contrast to the smaller LCD computah displays, that use snap together plastic cases, which are often tricky or difficult to open. I like the screws much better.
Another problem is that it's difficult to tell the customer that it took 30 minutes to get into the case, an hour to reassemble it, and 30 minutes to test it. More if I decide to charge for storage while waiting for parts, or cleaning off the workbench. Two hours for doing nothing useful is a bit much for most customers. My friends and competitors tell me I'm insane to work on big TV's.
Yet another problem is that the price of big screen LCD TV's is dropping fast. When they cost many thousands of dollars, it was easy to charge a substantial percentage of the value for a repair. Now that the price has dropped, expensive repairs are no longer easily possible.
Incidentally, the few synthesizer keyboards I fix also seem to have
496 screws holding them together. Much as I detest electric screwdrivers, I now have one solely to remove such screws. I still replace the screws with a non-powered screwdriver.Speaking of having too many friends and scraping bottom:
Sigh...
-- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
I bought a pair of these a few years back.
Lovely tools they are.
I even scrounged up a spring counterbalance for one of them.
Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi
-- "Everything from Crackers to Coffins"
Hi,
Thanks to everyone for your responses. The first thing I look for is bulging electroys, but in this case, not a single one is bulging.
Clarification on "Blinking Red Light":
The Red Light blinks (actually dims) when I press on the "ON/OFF" (power) button, otherwise it is "steady" red.
Since my customer had this TV at his vocation home in FLA, and this problem (won't turn on) occurred when he returned there, I have to consider the possibility of storm damage since he keeps it plugged in when he is away, and no surge protection.
John
Jeff Liebermann wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
"friends and customers"; who else would they come from??? ;-)
[dry humor attempt]
I used to use my Makita drill-driver to unscrew cases when I worked at Tektronix.it has too much torque for driving them back in. I also have a B&D VersaPack 3.6V screwdriver,but the battery packs have gone dead. (I found that they can be dismantled by cutting the back end off with a Dremel cutoff disc,and the plastic retainer will hold the new cells in,but haven't bought new cells to try yet.)
-- Jim Yanik jyanik at localnet dot com
snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
it could just be a bad "housekeeping supply" electrolytic in the PS; the cap that supplies the switcher IC's Vcc,or a failed resistor that charges it when the set is OFF. An ESR meter would show a high ESR for the cap,even if it is not bulging or discolored.
-- Jim Yanik jyanik at localnet dot com
When I worked at a tool store repairing tools, almost EVERYTHING was held together with corse threaded screws into plastic.
I bought the smaller 9.6 Makita impact driver with the 1/4" collet. Of course everyone else wanted to know why I didn't buy the 24V one you can change lugnuts with. Simple, I don't need to drive the case screws out the back side of the tool. ;-)
Now admittedly, I did buy the 12 V Makita later on, but I use that one for driving up to 5/16" lag screws into Douglas fir.
Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi
-- "Everything from Crackers to Coffins"
Referrals and responders to advertising, which are not friends and not yet customers. If I had to rely solely on friends and customers, I would be otto business long ago.
Yep. That's why I won't use them. Back when I was younger and dumber, I would use various electric screwdrivers for both removing and replacing screws. After stripping out a few cases, I decided that they were basically a bad idea. While using an ordinary screwdriver is slower, it gives me time to inspect the device and look for anomalies.
In the past, I would just borrow one from the neighboring office if I needed one. I recently bought a cheapo screwdriver at Sears. The inspiration was provided by failing to hop the curb on my bicycle. My left wrist took the shock about 3 weeks ago. It still hurts. I'll probably hide the electric screwdriver after the wrist recovers.
At 3.6V, you might see what happens when you try to run the screw driver with a Li-Ion cell phone battery. An 18650 or 123A cell might also fit. For charging, just stuff it into a cell phone, or buy a universal Li-Ion charger. Oh, it's already been done:
-- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jeff Liebermann wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Ah,but a person who walks in your door with a broken TV IS a "customer",or at least a potential customer,depending on your salesmanship skills.Even one responding to advertising,they are still "customers" once they come to you with an item to be repaired.
For the long screws on a RFM150,I'd drive them in most of the way,then use a hand driver to tighten them up.Although my Makita (9.6V) has a decent torque clutch. But I'd never use it on small screws.
Hey,thanks for the link! I'm gonna check it out right now!.
-- Jim Yanik jyanik at localnet dot com
"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...
I'm really surprised at the comments regarding electric screwdrivers. Some years back, I had a short-term contract job where around 1000 Philips LCD TV sets had to have their speakers replaced for some unspecified reason (parts were a Philips free-issue). In order to speed the job up, I bought a really bog-standard cheap as chips no-name drill / driver from my local DIY shed. Comes in a carry case with about a hundred Chinese drill and screwdriver bits. I'm sure you know the sort of thing. It has 11 torque settings plus a no-clutch drilling setting. It carried out the Philips job without complaint, and I have continued to use it for absolutely everything that I do from the smallest hi-fi units that I have in for repair, right up to major project woodwork such as building decks, and the counter I have just been building for the wife's latest venture. On the lowest torque setting, you can almost stop it with a finger, and I have never had the slightest issue with it stripping any case or screw threads, on any item I have ever used it on. I replaced its batteries ( 10 x C size NiCds) a couple of months ago, for the second time. These came from some NOS stripper packs that were being advertised in a trade mag a few years back. I replaced them the first time probably four years ago, and the second pack that I had, has sat under the bench in a box in its plastic bag since then. When I dug them out a few weeks back to replace the first replacement set, which were on their last legs again, they were pretty flat. I thought that sitting there undisturbed for four years, might have twatted them, but they charged just fine in a couple of hours, and are now giving sterling service. I am back to charging them about once a week for the general service work that the driver does daily, and a bit more often when it is being asked to do high torque stuff like driving unpiloted screws into wood. :-)
Arfa
"Arfa Daily" wrote in news:38VGp.1458$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe25.ams:
I've found that DealExtreme has a Li-ion charger for 18650 cells for
Well, I was being subtle. I believe electric screwdrivers do more damage than good. They're quite good for removing screws (assuming the head isn't stripped out). They're also good for STARTING screws. Just don't try to tighten screws.
The clutch setting needs to be adjusted individually for each screw size and type. If you have a device that has all the same screws, then you can probably succeed with using an electric. However, the eclectic mix of odd heads, threads, and lengths, found in the stuff I work on, makes the clutch setting tricky and risky, especially with small screws.
Perhaps an example or three will help. Last weekend, a former customer and now friend (i.e. he doesn't pay me), needed some help putting a Toyota Tacoma pickup truck back together. The rear seat was held on with nylon inserts and self-stripping screws. I knew trouble when I saw it, so I hid the Harbor Freight cheap driver/screwdriver in the garage. When I wasn't looking, he digs it back out, sets the clutch at the lowest setting, and proceeds to strip out 4 nylon inserts before I could stop him. I had to go to the hardware store, buy some plastic drywall anchors, pound them into the nylon inserts, and then the screws held.
A few years ago, I tried to fix a PC, where literally all the threads on the chassis, power supply, and case were stripped out. The owners son had tried to fix it, stripped out everything, and gave it back to his father without telling him. I had to replace the case and pound out the threads on the power supply.
I have a photo somewhere showing a motherboard held in with the usual collection of Philips screws. However, all the driver slots had been reamed into a useless conical shape with an electric screw driver. I couldn't get to the screw heads to slot them with a Dremel cutoff disk, so I used abrasive grit and a tiny screw extractor to remove the screws.
If the screws were all the same, it's possible to set the clutch properly. Such repetitious jobs is where electric and pneumatic screwdrivers work very well, especially if all the screws are the same.
You haven't stripped out any screw heads or threads? Impressive. I wasn't so lucky so I stopped using power screwdrivers.
Carpentry and construction are appropriate uses for such a driver/drill/screwdriver. Small screws in electronic equipment is not. I have several cordless screwdrivers that use for home repair. They're handy but tend to weigh too much. The new Li-Ion drivers are much lighter, but also expensive. For bench work, I still use power tools with AC cords (some of which I've been using for 30+ years).
-- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Hmmm. I must admit that it is the only cordless electric screwdriver that I've ever used. It has given such good service - apart from the two battery changes - that I have never had cause to use any other. It's one of those real 'old friend' tools that's always by your side. Perhaps, not having experience of other similar products, I've just been incredibly lucky with the versatility of this one.
Of course, if I'm absolutely honest, for sure I have stripped the odd thread with it, but that has been down to my stupidity where I've forgotten to turn the mechanical torque setting down before driving, not because it has excessive driving torque per se. Which brings me to another thought. As well as the mechanical slipping clutch torque control, it also has electronic torque control in that it has a very good trigger based PWM speed control in it. Perhaps it is the combination of these two factors, together with using appropriately sized and typed - so Philips rather than Pozi where needed, for instance - driver bits that's kept me out of trouble ...
As to changing the tips, for the most part I've found that just two double ended ones - so four types / sizes altogether - do for the vast majority of items that I come across. So that's one bit in the chuck, and the other in the storage clip on the top. And the chuck is a keyless hand type, so very quick for bit changing, even when you are shooting rapidly between drill bit sizes, as I have been on the latest woodworking project. Speaking of which, I've now changed exclusively to Torx headed woodscrews with self-cutting threads (they have a tiny 'circular saw' in the lower threads, and self-cutting counter-sinking flutes under the heads. They are a tad more expensive than 'conventional' ones, but they are brilliant for use with an electric screwdriver, and can even be screwed almost effortlessly by hand into soft woods, without any kind of pilot hole at all. Quite remarkable advance in fixing technology. And best of all, you can drive them at a serious angle, where space is limited to get your driver in :-)
Arfa
Jeff Liebermann wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
A major problem is that neither Phillips or slotted screws were made for power driving. camout is a big problem. Pozidrive was created to avoid that,but it never rally took hold. Then came Torx,and that's become more prevalent,but Philips is still the primary screwhead in use.
By "small screws",are you referring to screws smaller than 6-32 or similar?
4-40 is a bit small for power driving,but my B&D screwdriver worked OK for them. a good torque clutch is a necessity.-- Jim Yanik jyanik at localnet dot com
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