Lead-Free vs. 63/37 tin/lead solder

"Arfa Daily" hath wroth:

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Ignoring acid flux, the rosin fluxes come in two flavors. Water based and those that require some solvent to remove. Water based fluxes can allegedly be left on the board and will not eat the copper traces. The inspiration for this was not to reduce cleanup costs, but because of environmental and workplace regulations which proscribed the use of chlorinated hydrocarbon solvents for board cleaning.

The problem is that water soluble fluxes require rather hot water to remove properly. They're mostly used wave solder machines and not hand soldering. However, we were using them on the production in rework stations and of course, I ended up with a few rolls of the stuff. That's when I discovered that if you leave the flux on the board for more than a few days, it turns rock hard and no amount of hot water will get rid of it. The residue is water soluable, but the big lumps left in rework are not. I experimented with some household cleaners and found the ammonia cleaner sorta works. It's often easier to scrape the ossified flux off the board than to wash it as it's quite brittle.

Another fun experiment was to make my own flux. I managed to accidentally purchase a roll of solid core 63/37. No flux inside. I could purchase a tub of Kester rosin solder paste, but that's too easy and no fun. Rosin is just tree sap and I live in a forest with pine trees and lots of sticky gooey sap. I just walk outside, scrape off some pine sap, and I have instant rosin. I melted a big lump of the stuff to clean it and boil off the volatiles, and voila, instant sticky rosin flux.

When testing it, I found that the soldering iron was insufficient to set the flux on fire, but did an adquate job of converting it into noxious fumes. Rosin works by vaporizing into a cloud of inert smog, which protects the tin and lead from oxidation. The soldered connections were successful, but difficult to see under the carbonized sticky mess. Removal required trichlorethane (auto brake cleaner) and some elbow grease. Once cleaned, the connections looked quite shiny and bright. Obviously, I missed a step in the production process, but in general, it worked.

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Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@comix.santa-cruz.ca.us
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558
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Jeff Liebermann
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Ah ! See ... I knew there'd be someone out there that knew about the chemistry of fluxes. Thanks for the info. Most interesting.

Arfa

Reply to
Arfa Daily

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Afra -

In the United States, acid core (and not rosin core) was readily = available for the plumbing trades (soldering copper water pipes) When I started in 1970, it was easier for a newcomer to walk into a = hardware store and purchase this formulation instead of rosin core = (referred to as Radio-TV solder it that era).

While the problem has been greatly reduced, I still find a few = amateurs commenting that they are using the same roll of solder they = purchase many years ago

Reply to
g. beat

Go back to store and tell manager to fire him (or shut him up)

gb

Reply to
g. beat

"g. beat" hath wroth:

electronics.

It's a question of quantity.

Both acid core and activated rosin flux contains ammonium or zinc chloride. When heated, these produce hydrogen chloride gas (not liquid) which disolves the copper, lead, and tin oxides and keeps the solder joint clean. The metallic oxide is converted to zinc, metal, and a salt. A detailed explanation can be found at:

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The difference is that the typical mildly activated rosin flux generates hydrochloric acid vapor, not liquid. There's very little acid in the flux and none in the residue. The bulk of the oxidation protection is from the abietic acid in the rosin.

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This effectively protects the copper from oxidation, but not the lead or tin. That's what the hydrochloric acid smog from the activated flux produces.

On the other hand, plumbers acid core flux contains the same ammonium or zinc chloride, but in much larger quantities. There's plenty of corrosive hydrochloric acid in the residue. That's the problem. Left on the board, the acid will corrode everything. Just using such flux around circuit boards will evaporate the acid, which will condense on nearby components, and eventually corrode them.

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Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@comix.santa-cruz.ca.us
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558
Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

Thank you both - more good stuff on the subject !

Arfa

Reply to
Arfa Daily

On Wed, 07 Jun 2006 17:46:25 GMT, "ian field" put finger to keyboard and composed:

I find that metho leaves a white stain on some PCBs.

- Franc Zabkar

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Reply to
Franc Zabkar
[cleaning flux from PCBs]

Get out the meth's again & vigorously scrub the stained areas with an old toothbrush. That usually does the trick for me.

Isopropyl alchohol is less likely to leave residue, but it costs a lot more.

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   W          
 . | ,. w ,   "Some people are alive only because
  \|/  \|/     it is illegal to kill them."    Perna condita delenda est
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Reply to
Lionel

Not in the USA. 70% isopropyl alcohol (mixed with water, perfectly good for defluxing) is 40 cents for 500 mL at the corner pharmacy.

How is isopropyl alcohol made and why is it so cheap and abundant in the USA compared to other countries?

Reply to
mc

The IPA normally sold for electronic purposes is very pure at 99.7% or better. Lower grade rubbing alcohol is also abundant and cheap over here. However, I have to say that the high grade stuff is not especially expensive, and lasts a long time. I buy it in a 1 ltr tin, and one of those lasts about a year in my shop. I don't use it for defluxing though. For this, I buy an aerosol product from Servisol called "De-Flux 160". It comes in a 200ml can and lasts me for a good six months. Only a tiny spray is required, and with a stiff toothbrush, flux and other nasty deposits disappear like magic.

Arfa

Reply to
Arfa Daily

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