But a waste since he does not need to be able to plug any euro plug devices into it, and he STILL needs the plug adapter because it comes with the American style 15 amp parallel blade plug........
It won't be HIS disaster. Anyone stupid enough to plug their stuff into his power bar without asking deserves what he gets (it will only kill the device, not the owner)
Because half of what he wants to run isn't 5 volt (usb)??? I have several 3 volt, 9 volt and 12 volt devices, not to mention 19 ,
24, and 31.
Well stated.
The bottom line is that a 120V outlet strip will work fine at 240V. The surge protectors won't blow at 240V. If there's a neon lamp pilot light in the switch it _might_ blow because the series resistor is too low of a value, but no harm will come from it blowing.
Personally, I like the universal power strips that will accept all plug types such as .
Are you certain? The peak voltage of a 240V line is 340V. If the surge protectors are 300V...
That's possible if they cheaped out on the surge suppressors. Most power strips use MOVs that won't clamp until 340V.
I guess it's a better idea to buy a power strip rated at 240V since you'll have more margin. Or buy a 120V power strip with no surge suppressors.
There are 3 types of MOVs used in most power strips (and other surge protectors) - 300 volt, 400 volt and 500 volt The 400 volt are by far the most common. The 300 gives better protection on 120 volt circuits, but the 400 is most common and adequate on 240 as well. Particularly in the cheap Chinese stuff it means they can use the same devices world wide.
** What I wrote is correct.
The strip will *handle" the same current so the power capacity will double.
** Really - the *same* devices ??** Only be true for wide range SMPS ( ie 90V to 260V) and those devices that can be switched to 240V.
.... Phil
** Your words are the subject here.
** It is wrongly worded and misleading, for anyone except maybe a Canadian.
.... Phil
Not always true. With a linear supply it would be true, as the different transformer windings would both convervt the voltage down to the same low voltage.
Switching supplies are not all the same, and some just convert the incoming power to 400Hz (or higher) AC,run it through a transformer and reduce it to the outgoing voltage with a regulator. If the device is plugged into a 120 volt socket, the output voltage of the transformer is 15 volts, if it is plugged into a 240 volt socket, it would be 30 volts.
The internal regulator would even it out.
Current draw would be the same.
Geoff.
-- Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM/KBUH7245/KBUW5379
** Really - the *same* devices ??
** Only be true for wide range SMPS ( ie 90V to 260V) and those devices that can be switched to 240V.
Yes, Phil. We know that, Phil. That's what we were talking about, Phil. [Pats Phil's pate patronizingly.]
For someone named Phil, you certainly show little love for other people.
Not always true. With a linear supply it would be true, as the different transformer windings would both convert the voltage down to the same low voltage.
Switching supplies are not all the same, and some just convert the incoming power to 400Hz (or higher) AC, run it through a transformer and reduce it to the outgoing voltage with a regulator. If the device is plugged into a 120 volt socket, the output voltage of the transformer is 15 volts, if it is plugged into a 240 volt socket, it would be 30 volts.
The internal regulator would even it out. Current draw would be the same.
I don't think that's correct. To (possibly over-) simplify things, at higher line voltages, the pulse width will be narrower, and less charge will be drawn from the filter caps. Ergo, less current will be pulled from the line.
Reguardless - they will never draw MORE current from 240 than they would on 120 - so current capacity is never going to be an issue - and MOST will draw less current on 240. One of the advantages of switch mode power supplies is higher efficiency.
Don't confuse Phil with facts - his mind, such as it is, is already made up.
No,m of course not; that's because there's no approved way (and no fire-code permission) to put 240VAC onto any three-prong 120VAC receptacle. The presumption is that someone would plug a
120VAC appliance into that socket, and cause a hazard.It's impossible to make a permissive label without making some kind of conribution to such hazard, so there'll be no label. It would probably work, though, and one could test, or inspect, or modify any number of items to achieve the desired result.
"whit3rd"
** The bigger hazard is that of electric shock to the user.A regular two prong US 120V plug is not finger safe ( for small hands and fingers ) when partially inserted.
At 240V this is a big no no.
.... Phil
When I lived in the US, you could buy three prong 240 volt 15 amp plugs for electronic equipment. They looked like regular plugs except the hot and neutral pins were horizontal.
Outlet strips were available, but they were metal with phenolic sockets, designed to be used in equipment cabinets, not the cheap plastic ones that abound now.
There were also special 20 and 30 amp plugs for dryers and air conditioners.
Up until sometime in the 1970's you could buy a 230 volt clothes dryer with a 120 volt timer and motor. The 120 volt parts were wired between one of the phases and ground.
Geoff.
-- Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM/KBUH7245/KBUW5379
Open it up and check there is nothing that might not like 240V in it.
-- Brian Gregory (in the UK). To email me please remove all the letter vee from my email address.
That would be really dumb. The power supply would run really hot on 240V and nice and cool on 120V.
In fact the converter you describe that generates the higher frequency AC will be adjusting itself so that the transformer output is more or less the same voltage no matter what the incoming mains voltage is.
-- Brian Gregory (in the UK). To email me please remove all the letter vee from my email address.
"Brian Gregory"
** The OP simply has to make sure any varistors are rated at 275VAC, suppression caps have the same voltage rating and are marked class X1 or 2 - oh, and neon lights must have series resistors of 180 kohms or higher.Varistors must only be wired from active to neutral, never to ground.
If in doubt, just remove the lot with side cutters.
Dead simple.
.... Phil
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