I've only seen external leads for the thermal protection device on industrial motors (specifically Oriental Motors gearmotors). The purpose of the external leads is for use where excessive motor heat (overload) could be used to signal/actuate/interrupt other devices on a machine.
So the TP (thermal protection) leads for your motor would be wired in series with the L1 line-in, and one of the motor's power connections. The other connection would be for N neutral.
The 2 identical readings between 3 wires would likely indicate the motor run windings, and there should be ~132 ohms measured across the 2 windings in series (end-to-end). If there aren't 2 nearly identical resistance readings between windings found, then those aren't likely to be the run windings (excluding multi-speed connections). BTW, there are no start windings in a PSC motor, only 2 run windings.
I haven't taken any resistance readings of PSC motor windings in a while, so I can't say if the 66 ohm reading is reasonable.
I don't have any suggestions for the red and yel wires. My focus would be to determine if the motor is useable, not all of it's features.
L1 o-----(switch)-----o(blk)--(TP)--(blk)o------(66R)------(center conn)------(66R)
N o--------------------------------------------------------------------------o------[cap]------o
Ground o---------------------------(motor case)
These would be the typical connections for a PSC motor, and how I would test it, IF I were fairly certain of the run winding connections.
I would have separated the HV supply long ago, since it has no use in powering the motor.
If it can be determined to be in working condition, then the possibility of reversing the rotation may be considered.
FWIW, these motors can usually be found for ~$10 (maybe less) for a new surplus motor with a wiring diagram and a specific RPM, from numerous surplus dealers.
--
Cheers,
WB
.............
"when you pry it from my cold, dead hands" is the attitude of some folks
regarding "their" money.
But when the money is finally extracted, it has no value, because they've
squeezed all the ink out of the paper.
"Splork" wrote in message
news:jmhfo8pugrd730dm9s6or8fdr4sd0vjuuo@4ax.com...
>
> OK, I looked at it again and took some readings that I did not before.
> The
> Black wire mystery is solved. Black in to black out is likely an
> interrupter of
> sorts. Thermal protection?? Allows the motor to cut power to everything
> if it
> senses trouble.
>
> Zero ohms between them. Don't know how I missed that. If it is
> intermittently
> failing (reason for discard), I can bypass it.
>
> The gray wire to the brown is 66 ohms, increasing as we move towards
> white, so
> brown is the center tap and the start coil 66 ohms.
>
> http://www.grailworks.org//Images/Motor.jpg
>
>
> So the Black Wire hot out from the motor goes to the white lead, start/run
> cap,
> and HV input. Looks good. The other side of the HV input has the other
> AC leg
> and it would connect to the brown wire.
>
> I presume whatever switching device is used, it would bypass (short) the
> brown
> to yellow or brown to red or yellow to red or so on, to remove power to
> those
> coil segments. Something to ponder when I have a moment.
>
> For hrhofann: Part number on unit is 001-02084-000
> Ref # DM-60001
> Year 04 H
>
> Zilch on lookup by me. Got an idea?? I would love to see how this was
> intended
> to be run.
>
> Thanks guys!