Goodmans TV does not respond to the TV remote

I have a Goodmans TV model LD3761HDFVT. Increasingly, I can not run it. Blue LED on the front of the TV lights up, but very poorly lit. TV does not work then - does not respond to the TV remote. I can only turn it off using the button on the side panel TV. When the TV is working properly, the blue LED is lit by an intense light. What could be causing this and whether it pays to fix this, or is it better to buy a new TV.

Reply to
qpanas
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Maybe you have a bad remote?

Many times the Ir LED goes bad in the remote, even though it may still check ok as a diode.

Using a light meter that covers Ir. is a handy tool for this. I just happen to have a cheap, and I mean cheap, DMM that has a light meter in it along with a sound meter, moister meter etc.. this works well!.

Reply to
Jamie

If the blue LED is lighting poorly and the TV is not coming on, then the chances are that you have a power supply problem. The most common problem is without doubt, caps, followed by bad (lead-free) joints. Look for any electrolytic caps near to or hidden under the heatsinks, that may have bulging tops, or check them all with an ESR meter. If you are not experienced dealing with switchmode power supplies, do take care, as they are potentially lethal. Just to make sure that you understand what I am saying, they *can* kill you ... :-(

Arfa

Reply to
Arfa Daily

The symptoms described certainly sound like a PSU/caps problem, just to put the OP's mind at rest concerning the remote, the IRLED can be observed in action with any digital camera that has an LCD panel.

An extra comment on PSU caps, not all faulty caps bulge when they fail - some just get moderately hot. If the OP doesn't have an ESR meter the touch test might identify a failing electrolytic. But it is important to remember that the cans are not isolated, so don't touch the cans with the PSU powered, and as capacitors can hold a dangerous charge, do the touch test with one hand in pocket so a circuit through the body can't be completed.

An idea for a poor man's ESR checker, is an inverse-parallel pair of LEDs in series with a DC blocking capacitor, the idea being that a large ripple on an electrolytic will look like AC to the DC blocking cap and pass enough current to light the LEDs. A series resistor of about 1k2 to limit switch on surge is a good idea, the cap could be about 0.68uF/400V to cover most eventualities.

Testing is a little time consuming as the PSU needs to be powered down between each test - the tester is soldered to the print side under each electrolytic in turn. One of the LEDs will flash once at switch on, if both then glow there is excessive ripple on the electrolytic.

Reply to
ian field

It's a firmware hiccup. Just unplug and wait 20 seconds before plugging it in.

Reply to
Sitre J. Magana

Almost any video camera will be sensitive to the infrared of a remote control. A camcorder with LCD display is most convenient since the display is integral, so one doesn't need to set up a camera and separate monitor.

-- Cheers, WB .............

Reply to
Wild_Bill

You can also use a camera phone. Just push a button on the remote while it is pointed at the phone while previewing the camera and you should see a white dot on the display.

Reply to
Bob

A mobile phone that everyone has in their pocket, is even more convenient ...

Arfa

Reply to
Arfa Daily

No camera phone for me, but always have a night vision scope.

-- Cheers, WB .............

Reply to
Wild_Bill

Cheap monochrome surveillance video cameras detect IR very well.

--
    W
  . | ,. w ,   "Some people are alive only because
   \\|/  \\|/     it is illegal to kill them."    Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------
Reply to
Bob Larter

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