Fixing Headphones

and I wanted to try fixing them.

was looking for pointers because I've never done this before.

more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces.

I use a time domain reflectometer. Can usually get you close enough to tell where to cut/splice.

If you have a C-meter with sub-picofarad resolution, you can sometimes estimate the distance to the break.

I've found cable breaks with a stun gun. Just cut out the part that caught fire. Not sure I'd try it with the headphone connected to one end.

Soldering is an issue because it ain't normal wire. You can burn thru it in an instant. And when you do get it soldered, it likes to break right at the transition between flex and stiff.

There was a long thread, here, I think, about soldering the stuff.

side and I wanted to try fixing them.

but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before.

or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces.

The smallest diameter sewing pin you can find, pierce the insulation and a resistance meter

A bit more info might help. What sort of price range? What type? (cover the ear? headband? earbuds?) (Apple?, or generic).

The stuff I mess around with are the $10 generic headband type, used with cassette players, radios, etc.

With those, the sound element generally snap into the headband and if you unsnap each on, there's two solder points.

Color Code for the typical 3 conductor 3.5 mm/1/8 inch plug

green - left side audio - the tip of the plug red - right side audio - the ring on the plug copper - ground - the sleeve (two wires, one each side)

The wires are small (40 gauge?) multi-stranded wire insulated with thermally strippable enamel. In a two by two zipcord jacket.

(Older cords use miniature shielded conductors with red (right) and white (left) center insulation and no other insulation on the central conductor and shield wires. This kind of wire can short out.)

The first step it to unsnap the sound elements from the head band. (I'm not into earbuds, I suppose there's some way to uncap the end with the wires). Then you can measure between the solder points on the element and the plug to find the open conductor(s). See the color code...

One test is just to tug on the open wire and see if it pulls out. The most frequent breakage is at the place where the wire exits the headband, about 3/8 inch down. At this point, cut, strip back about 3/4 inch from the break, tin the wire, remove the old wire bit on the sound element connection, and re-solder. (If symmetry in the cord matters, you may have shorten the cord and reinstall on the other side too, or just put a knot in the other side).

The wire isn't that hard to deal with. You need a high temperature solder iron to strip off the insulation. (Avoid the smoke!). Just get a blob on the tip of the iron and use that to strip the insulation and tin a 1/8 inch or less of the conductor.

A lower temperature iron is suggested to solder to the connection points on the sound element. There are usually two pads for each connection, one for the headset cord, another to connect to the speaker coil with VERY SMALL wire, avoid disturbing that one.

Another breakage point is at the strain relief at the plug end. Often you can fell the break where the wire has a "soft spot" at the high stress point.

As most plugs are molded on, it's time for a $.69-$2 for a new plug. Or a whole cord assembly. (I've seen them in Mouser's catalog, anybody tried them?)

When putting on a replacement plug, remember to put the outer insulator on the wire before you solder on the plug assembly. (See color code..., use your ohm meter frequently).

I often reinforce the strain relief on the wire exiting the plug with some small (1/16"?) shrink tubing. Likewise the area where the wires exit the headband. The kitchen toaster works good for shrink tubing. ;-)

Mark Zenier snipped-for-privacy@eskimo.com Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com)

and I wanted to try fixing them.

was looking for pointers because I've never done this before.

more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces.

you could turn this into a big task, but start easy.

chop off the damn plug. replace it with a new one. that will fix headphones 99% of the time.

keep the old plug around to trace out what wires to attach to which channel.

use lots of heatshrink on your new plug as a strain relief.

side and I wanted to try fixing them.

g but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before.

rts or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces.

Yup, I've only fixed a few of these for the kids, but every time the broken wire was right next to the plug. That point gets the most twisting, bending etc...

George H.

I use a time domain reflectometer. Can usually get you close enough to tell where to cut/splice.

Oh really.

And how is this going to help the OP?

Gareth.

I gave two valid ways to accomplish the task: "it will involve locating where the break is,"

At last count, that's two more than you.

Your move...

I gave two valid ways to accomplish the task: "it will involve locating where the break is,"

At last count, that's two more than you.

Your move...

OK, take a read of what you wrote:

I use a time domain reflectometer. Can usually get you close enough to tell where to cut/splice.

If you have a C-meter with sub-picofarad resolution, you can sometimes estimate the distance to the break.

Do you seriously think you are helping the OP, or are instead just blowing your own trumpet?

Bearing in mind, of course, that the OP is just a bloke off the street who happens to have a pair of broken headphones, and probably doesn't happen to possess a sophisticated set of test equipment, or the knowledge to carry out the tasks you are suggesting he ought to.

Get a grip, ffs.

Gareth.

By my count, despite all your bluster, it's still 2-0. If you have a better idea, spill it.

There are lots of pages and U-tubes on the subject.

... Phil

side and I wanted to try fixing them.

but I was looking for pointers because I've never done this before.

inserts or more likely where the leads enter near the ear pieces.

Or some hotmelt glue roughly wiped over the join plus one piece of heatshrink for poor-mans adhesive heatshrink

If you can search the SER newsgroup try *tinsel wire* for a couple of recent discussions wrt tiny cables used in headphones and portable electronic gear accessories.

Those tiny wires need to be stabilized/secured near the solder connection so the conductors don't bend/move near the solder, or the wires will break off fairly quickly.

-- Cheers, WB .............

I'd need visual aids to understand what is being referred to. But the infor mation on the heahdphones is as follows: ?SONY Synamic Stereo Headphones MDR-7502 Professional?. Here?s one on Ebay:

It is the right side that doesn't work. And the plug has two green rings.

I'm wondering if there are replacement ear pads available for this. IF not it wouldn't be worth fixing.

I attempted to check continuity by sticking a sewing needle into both paral lel wire leads in order to determine if the break was at the plug and had n o luck at all. So it looks as though I'll just have to shotgun by stripping the wires.

From what is said here I should start with replacing the plug. But I haven' t been able to find anything via Google as far as an illustrated diagram on how everything is connected.

Do I start by cutting off the plug so that there are on the two leads left? (Of course I'd have to find a replacement first).

I'm not sure how to deal with the leads where they enter the earpieces or i f it is possible to open the ear pieces up.

Thanks.

Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.

ng

th

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ormation on the heahdphones is as follows: ?SONY Synamic Stereo Headphone s MDR-7502 Professional?. Here?s one on Ebay:

t it wouldn't be worth fixing.

allel wire leads in order to determine if the break was at the plug and had no luck at all. So it looks as though I'll just have to shotgun by strippi ng the wires.

n't been able to find anything via Google as far as an illustrated diagram on how everything is connected.

t? (Of course I'd have to find a replacement first).

if it is possible to open the ear pieces up.

On Google I've been looking at exploded views of headphones and they are no t clear at all. If I knew what was supposed to be connected to what it woul d make things easier because I've never seen the inside of headphones befor e. And I can see no way to open these up without breaking them.

I hate to have to shotgun, but I still need to find a way to determine wher e the break is.

I'd really like to just add twin 18 or 16 gauge leads from a plug to the ea r pieces, but don't know if that is plausible. (I can't even find plugs I c an solder to locally).

Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.

Trimming excessive previous text from posts makes them much easier to read.

Everything comes apart (even atoms), it's just a matter of figuring out the puzzle.

Plastic tools with thin edges are good for getting started into seams of adjoining pieces and cautiously proceeding to get inside. As has been offered here often, screws sometimes are/can be hidden under label stickers (or rubber plugs).

There are sellers who sell audio extension cables, and I recently bought some from an eBay seller because I wasn't having any luck finding 2.5mm right-angle plugs with 4 poles.

An alternative could be to install a jack on the headphones, so when the cable fails it can just be replaced with another extension cable with male-male plugs.

It's often easier to buy another device than to try to locate separate parts to make a cable. I prefer replaceable cable ends, but molded right-angle are more sensible on portable equipment. So, if you happen to see an inexpensive audio accessory with a stereo cable on it, you can consider buying it just for the cable to repair something else. I see lots of accessory cables for all the portable music devices anytime I look at any electronics/personal audio stuff at stores.

I managed to fix one of the several pairs I have. At least temporarily. The leads tend to break near where they enter the ear pieces.

I opened up a different pair last night and this one, unlike the others has three instead of two leads:

The typical red and green, but also a black lead which I assume is ground.

I see a lot of 2.5mm adaptors on Ebay, but these are not what I can solder to. ?!?

Also, I have no idea where to get the two or three led wires that can be used to repair headphones.

Thanks.

Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.

Can anyone tell me where I can get the specific wire used or whether or not it is plausible to use some 20g I have?

Also, where can I get the plugs for headphones? (I assume one just solders the leads to them before using something like shrink-wrap).

Thanks.

Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.

The tinsel wire is so fragile, general-purpose stranded wire may do fine. Or, use some RG-174 coax.

Hopefully, on Staten Island, you should be able to find a Radio Shack or similar store.

Jon

The Red Green Black is stereo. Get wires from cheap headphones at Goodwill. The stuff braided with cloth is called "gimp". Use a solder pot (dip) or a Zippo (burn off the cotton). Black is common, Red is right. Confirm with AA battery and a clip lead. EBay is a weaqlth of information.