If fourth band is silver or gold, you have two significant digits and the third band is the exponent, fourth band is the tolerance , 5 or 10 percent. Special case if the first band is double-wide of the third band is silver or gold.
If the third band is NOT silver or gold, then you have a three significant digits and the fourth band is the exponent, fifth is the tolerance. Not that since you have three digits, the exponents are "one higher" than with the older format.
See any of the on-line resistor color code charts for the details.
Some cable technician cut this off of my friends television (she said it stopped working on New Year's - must have been some party), anyway, and the cable tv tech said it was bad. I told her the cable technician is probably smoking crack! The component (looks like a resistor to me) isn't bad from the limited testing I did, but I need to order a new one for her.
I'm a computer guy just trying to help her out....not an electrical engineer.
This is why it's always important to give all the details to begin with.
Your original post suggested the part was bad, which ruled out the obvious means of verifying the color code. That would be you take an ohmmeter and measure it, and that would give you the basis to interpret the color code. This is also useful in recent years when sometimes the colors used to code the resistors are odd looking, so at a glance it's not clear what standard color a band is supposed to be.
But given the assumption it was bad, then there the measured resistance wouldn't match the color code.
If the resistance matches the expected value of the color code, then you know it's good.
If the value is zero, or close to it (which might be hard to judge given the color code indicates a quite low value resistor) then it is likely bad, because a bad capacitor could be shorted.
An open circuit (ie really high resistance) sure wouldn't be what the color code suggests it would be as a resistor, but it might be a capacitor, since capacitors will be open (though high value capacitors will charge up, showing a low value resistance at first and a high value resistance in the end). A capacitance meter, or the function on a DMM, would give an indication of whether the value matches some color code scheme for capacitors.
But, you have a bigger problem, something that would have been bypassed in the first place if you'd revealed the whole story. Your original post was so sparse that people took the question literally when the answers should have dealt with the bigger problem.
YOu have some guy who may not have been qualified to look at the tv set, and then turns around and drops the problem in your lap, and you aren't qualified either. It doesn't even sound like you know exactly what the "cable technician" was doing.
Given all that, it's no wonder you are going to have problems here. Because you aren't actually evaluating the tv set, you are trying to fix something some other guy has decided is the problem, and only he knows why he thinks that.
Drop it back in his lap, because he's the one who's done the damage so far.
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