Does Max mean max signal or max attenuation?

If, when you say "different ends of its rotation", you mean that it is a variable attenuator, then the Min attenuation spec is the lowest attenuation setting, meaning that maximum signal gets through. Max attenuation means that is the highest level of attenuation, with the least amount of signal getting through. To reduce the signal level more, rotate the setting toward the Max end.

Dave M

micky wrote:

Attenuation is reduction, Max Att would be max reduction in signal gain!

At least that is how I read it, who knows, it was radio shaft product.

Jamie

Micky:

If it is a know, then maximum attenuation would be fully counter-clockwise. Minimum attenuation would be fully clockwise.

In the case of an audio amp attenuator knob, at

12 o'clock would be some attenuation and a moderate input voltage to achieve a specific desired volume level. Fully clockwise would mean zero attenuation, requiring minimal input signal voltage to achieve that same desired volume level. The latter circumstance ensures that no clipping occurs at the output stage of the signal source(assuming that signal wasn't already clipped or limited during production or from a prior stage).

With one end open measure the DC resistance of the other end. Once at max and once at min. Report the values here.

good idea. especally since the vote was 2 to 1 so far.

It will take a while to get back to you all.

Thanks everyone.

BTW, its called a TV and VCR Signal Attenuator.

Resistance ranged from near zero CCW (it probably was zero) and about

510 ohms full CW. Half way in the middle, the resistance was somewhat more than half 510.

So since min was on the left and max on the right, it meant max attentuation.

I should have figured this out myself, Tom. Who knows why I didn't.

In the last 36 hours, to fix my telephone, I replaced the phone, the cord, the DSL filter, disconnected the main wire from the rest of the house, and fiddled with the NID outside. It seems to have been the one-piece, all-plastic, Y-connector for the phone line. Even though I'm looking at it and it looks fine, and I'd used it for years. But it's the only thing I changed when the phone started working again. (And the DSL had been working all along.)

Thanks everyone.

I spoke too soon. Replacing that seems to have enabled me to place phone calls.

But still when people call me, it barely chirps and if I don't answer in what would be two rings, it gives them a busy signal.

I've replaced everything that distinguishes the phone line from the DSL line.

Could the DSL modem be messing up the phone, even though the phone signal does not really go through the modem? That is, the phone line input and the phone output are both in the same modular Y-connector, which plugs into the DSL modem.

I have some moderately heavy phone wire, 2 of the 4 conductors, going straight from the two scews in the NID up the front of the house, to the back of a modular wall plate, to a short modular cord, to one of the two "outputs" of a modular Y-connector. The "input" is plugged into the DSL modem, and the other output goes to the telephone, via a DSL filter, a cord, and a phone. I've exchanged the last 3 things and the Y connector. What's left to replace?