Do Fender use threadlock on cab screws?

One screw holding the back cover to the amp chassis would only come away by shearing. Squashed out the hank bush and remnant of screw with large G-cramp. Overlay has date 3508 and PbF sign , so early Fender PbF. But I've not even got to the solder side of the board yet. No bushing around the pot spindles so they flop around in the overlarge chassis holes, and one pot broken, paxolin section cracked into 4 sections. One mains fuse pcb yoke is skew. That white "lettraset" lettering on the front panel is wearing off , as usual. I have to take the word from the owner (from new) that its a Junior. 5 or 6 moves with the amp back-face down, on the carpeted boot of a car, was enough to remove the lettering off that plate. IIRC at one time in the UK, that sort of H&S info, mains voltage, fuse rating etc had to be on an etched plate.

So a neat and easy retro-fit fudge for what Fender should have engineered up properly in the first place.

2mm of play around the spindles of the 6 pots and 2mm of play under the knobs. As no pot bush+nuts to chassis, anyone leaning on the knobs will break the pcb PbF solder or break the paxolin of the pot, plus the knobs flopping around, unprofessionally, in normal use. Some 7.9mm diameter plastic tube of .7mm wall cut to 10mm lengths, slid over each spindle , thru the chassis holes, takes up the flopping about. A 19mm fibre washer,2mm thick, and a normal 15.5mm fibre washer as used on 1/4 in sockets, per pot . Insert the small washer in the knob recess and clamp the larger one , under the knob and hot melt the 2 washers together, in situ, without gluing to the knob. So neatly located padding under each knob that can turn within the knob if needed. Knob not touching the chassis or rubbing the silly silk-screen non-permanent legends. Just have to hope these bits don't rattle around in use.