"not found" is what the web page says.
"not found" is what the web page says.
-- . Christopher A. Young
I added a g to the end of the URL, and got a picture. I can't comment on that, until you answer my question.
-- . Christopher A. Young
I was wondering what his suggestion had been. He kept saying I was ignoring him, but I never saw (or remember seeing) his suggestion. Maybe it's there. Probably is.
Anyway, as a Hail Mary play, I tried the Supco RC0410 1/4-to-1/3 HP 120VAC "3n1 Start" Solid State Relay Overload Start Capacitor Combination (6.8A Maximum Continuous Amps):
Good news and bad news.
A. The first time I connected it, the compressor RAN! B. The second time I connected it, the compressor kicked off after 20 seconds (and the power cord got hot).
When it was running, the Ammeter read 1.5Amps!
I let it run for about two minutes, and I could feel the output (thin) discharge tubing getting hot to the touch. The input tubing didn't get a chance to change temperature.
I told the wife it worked, so I unplugged it to show her that it starts up, and guess what?
The second time I plugged it in, the overload kicked in after 20 seconds, and the cord got noticably hot.
If I was confused before - I'm doubly confused now.
I'm gonna let it cool down a bit,
I think I tried *every* suggestion ever made in this thread.
Here's yours, but I don't remember it being suggested until today.
Funny thing is that the Sears country-wide prices are *far* (far!) lower than the prices at the local appliance shops here in the Silicon Valley!
The run cap is $17.39 in that Sears USA parts diagram, but at the local San Jose parts stores, it was between $45 and $65 for those who had it in stock.
Interestingly, the relay is $45.17 in that Sears US diagram, and it was about $60 to $75 at the local parts stores that had it in stock.
Meanwhile, the Supco RC0410 1/4-to-1/3 HP 120VAC "3n1 Start" Solid State Relay Overload Start Capacitor Combination should be around $10, but I paid $29.50 for it at the local Appliance Parts Store.
What do you make of this? a. The first time I plugged in the RC0410, the compressor started! b. After about two minutes, I wanted to show teh wife, and, in her presence, the second time I plugged it in, it overheated and turned off.
Heh heh. It "is" more. In San Jose at least. I paid $29.50 for it today.
Ah, but what if the compressor starts the first time, and then fails to start the second time?
I'll try to get a video of this - but I am waiting for it to cool down (and for the wife to go to bed so she doesn't influence the test results).
On 7/12/2016 10:56 PM, Danny D. wrote: ...
That's fantastic!
Refrigerators and AC's need to rest before being restarted. I think that the pressures in the system have to equalize, so that the compressor is not trying to start against too large a "head".
Normally this happens because when the thermostat turns it off, it's a while before the thermostat tells it to turn on again.
I asked two Appliance Parts Stores, and they agree that they're one and teh same, so, the guy who said that they're not in that thread must be wrong:
It worked the first time! Then it failed the second time. :(
I'm more confused now than ever, but I will try again after it cools down.
Actually, it was $29.50 here in San Jose:
Thanks for answering so quickly, as I had egg all over my face after telling the wife that I was a veritable genius and that I fixed it for less than thirty bucks!
I'll let it cool down, and plug it back in, with the ammeter connected, and check the current. If it starts, I'll leave it running for a few hours!
I must admit - the information is conflicting - so I'm confused. Very confused.
a. The old equipment tested good (as far as I could tell) b. The jumper rig should have bypassed the relay (but not the OEM cap) c. All this 3n1 "hard-start kit" did was replace those two things
Maybe it's a "bigger" capacitor?
There's no mention on the package of how big the cap is, but physically, the combination unit is far beefier than the OEM unit. So I dunno...
Do you think it could be as simple as the compressor just needed a "beefier" cap?
Why would it need a beefier cap?
Ooops. Mea culpa. Sorry about that missing "g".
It should have been:
Ummmmm... what question?
But I have a question for you. How do you respond so quickly?
I have to sit down at the computer to even see a message, so, I don't see them in real time. Do you have something that goes to your phone?
On 7/12/2016 11:16 PM, Danny D. wrote: ...
A more-capacitance cap would have a lower impedance and allow more current to flow. More current in a motor means more torque.
There is still the possibility that the original cap is defective. That the parts-place check did not measure capacitance, or if it did, it wrongly concluded that the capacitance that it measured was the needed value.
Also, IIRC, users' manuals for AC's say to wait 3 minutes before trying to restart.
You never answered my question, and I never made any suggestions what to do. Other than suggesting you answer my question so we can move on.
-- . Christopher A. Young
Coincidence. I'm on the east coast, and spend a bit of time on the computer in the evenings.
What question? I only asked twice.
-- . Christopher A. Young
Not that Danny reads my posts, you see.
-- . Christopher A. Young
As others have said you must let it set for about 20 minutes for the pressure between the high side and the suction side to equalize. Also, if the kit uses a PTC starter, that also must cool down to room temperature.
Good news, and odd news.
Is it normal for a compressor to shut off after getting very hot after working for only about 10 minutes?
Is it OK to have the frig temporarily on two power cords? a. One for the fan and the rest of the frig b. One just for the compressor
Did you remove all the dust from the condenser coil?
Here's the sound of the compressor running with the hard-start capacitor hooked up, sinking only about 3 amps through the COMMON terminal:
Here's the sound of the compressor turning off, after running for about 20 minutes or so, sinking about 11 amps through the COMMON terminal:
The capacitor on that hard start kit may be too large and cause overheating. Why don't you go ahead and get the correct part specified for the unit you have?
For the last time, did you clean the dust off the condenser coil? That's important.
Given that the compressor is clearly working (at least for a short period of time), it seems that I have to go back and figure out what's bad.
Seems to make sense to replace the cap, even though 3 tests showed it to be good.
I was throwing away the frig as of this morning, so, there was no need to clean the condenser coil. I guess I'll clean it now - although do you really thing *that* is what is making the compressor cycle?
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