Debug advice Kenmore coldspot 106-59422801 stopped refrigerating

I think the compressor is electrically good, and I think the start cap is electrically good and I think the relay/overload is electrically good.

In addition to a mechanically bad compressor, that still leaves either low R34a or a blockage (neither of which is likely), although a compressor mechanically going bad in just 6 years is also unlikely since they're built to last longer than that.

It would be fantastic if I could find a picture of what is inside the hermetically sealed black box. It's amazingly difficult to find.

BTW, use the part number on the label of the compressor and do a google search.

EM2Z80HLT Embraco is the manufacturer.

BTW-2 The LRC at 17.5 amps is at the higest rated line voltage of 127 volts. That is why you are seeing a lower reading.

BTW-3 If this were me, I would at least try a new capacitor. Also I would pop open the relay and have a look see. Maybe the contacts are welded shut and could be separated and cleaned.

BTW-4 Good luck.

I hooked 120 VAC to the COMMON (hot) and RUN (neutral) and then jumped, with a screwdriver, the START (neutral) but that didn't start the compressor.

I did the same thing, essentially, with the 12uF capacitor hooked in series with the RUN, and it didn't start.

Wow. That thing is jam packed!

It almost makes me want to cut it open and look to see what went wrong!

There seem like plenty of mechanical parts to go bad:

Thanks!

I would connect Neutral to the Common and Line to the Run. Connect the Run capacitor from Run to Start. Apply power and momentary short the capacitor. See if that does anything.

You might give the can a few good wacks with a hammer in case it is just something jammed in the pump.

Do you know anyone that does automotive AC work? They would have most of what is needed to change out the compressor sans a good torch and sil-fos brazing rod.

Or wait for a good appliance sale.

On 7/12/2016 3:54 PM, tom wrote: ...

...

I agree about the cap. The parts guy test could have been it's not shorted & it's not open. That leaves a bad value. E.g., a too small capacitance that doesn't provide enough start current. But I guess that you could test that by measuring the current through the start winding, using your test rig with cap.

The relay is pretty much eliminated as the problem through using your test rig.

Thanks for explaining why I'm only seeing 12 Amps when the compressor won't start when the Locked Rotor Amperage (LRA) spec is 17.6 Amps.

I generally try to "diagnose" parts before giving up on them. It's just so much easier (mentally) to replace stuff that I *know* for a fact is bad, then to replace stuff that I "think" is bad.

I'm sure it is far easier, mentally, for the type of people who "throw parts at the problem" to replace things that they haven't completely tested.

While the capacitor has been tested, I understand what you're saying, which is to pay a bit less than $100 to replace the cap and starter, essentially throwing parts at the problem. Or, similarly, I can pay a bit over $100 to have a tech come out and tell me, for sure, what needs fixing.

Most of the time, when those are my options, I generally opt to buy the tools for $100, where the tool either fixes the problem or the tool tells me exactly what that problem is.

But, in this case, I don't think there is that $100 tool option, is there?

You should never have written that, because my wife happened to ask me what I was doing, and she looked at your post, and pointed at me, saying "See! I

:)

Apart from this problem, a good Fluke DMM would be on my immediate acquire list. And never loan it out if you want to be able to trust it.

There are "hard start" compressor starters available that might be worth looking at.

Can you take some more pictures of the start relay? From different angles?

You should be able to get a replacement start cap for MUCH less than $100, and just bypass the starting relay. You will hear instantly if the compressor starts. If it does, the compressor is OK, and the only piece left is the relay. Some time ago I got a run cap from a refrigeration supply for $6. I expected it to be more.

And, if the compressor does not start with the new cap and the relay bypassed, then you can be fairly sure the compressor cannot be salvaged.

Jon

Pump out all the refrigerant. Saw the top off the compressor. After the inspection, weld the compressor using a gas tight "bead" of weld. Replace the refrigerant.

No problem for you, right?

Don't bother. I suggested that a week ago, and Danny totally ignored me. And ignored my hints and reminders.

Googling for how to "unlock a compressor", I found mention of a "hard start kit", which some people say is the same as a "3n1", but others say they're different:

Calling local appliance stores, they say they're the same thing (but that reference above says they're not the same thing).

The local appliance store has a Supco RC0410 "hard start kit" in stock:

Amazon also sells these "RC0410 Hard Start Kits":

Some people equate the 3n1 with the "hard start kit":

My question: Q: Is the hard start kit and the 3n1 the same thing or different?

Do you have experience with it kicking off a stuck compressor?

Actually, I don't think that you did. You probably meant to, but were too pissed from his ignoring you.

From the ad:

The 3 n' 1 Start Relay adds new life to old refrigerators and freezers by providing an additional boost to the compressor. 1/4 and 1/3 Horsepower a.. 115-230VAC

So it looks like they are the same.

And no, never used one. Stuck compressors are very rare. Most of the time the windings overheat and short. The arcing produces acids that ruin the compressor.

But for $16 why not give it a try?

Can you take some more pictures of the start relay? Can you open the start relay for inspection? It looks like it just snaps together.

Think I remember at least one reminder. Well, moot point. He's gone so far afield on so many directions, there's no contacting him, now.

:)

You mean this?