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CD Drive Tray Sticks

I have several computer CD/DVD drives with sticking trays. Problem happens right at the start when it can't separate the spindle from the disk. Usually works with a disk inserted, but always sticks when empty.

There's a powerful magnet holding the disk down on the spindle. I tried shimming it so it would be further away from the spindle when no disk is installed and exert less force. By the time the sticking problem is reduced, there isn't enough force to keep the disk held down on speed variations.

I tried a mag tape demagnetizer on the magnetic top clamp with no effect.

I've seen several of these. They all say "super multi" somewhere in the name. Mechanisms look pretty much the same.

This particular one is a HP GH40L. LGE-DMGH22LS40(B)

I've taken 'em apart, cleaned/lubed/checked for rough surfaces etc. The ramp on the opening mechanism is steep right where the disk clamp separates. The carriage moves down a fraction until the magnetic clamp on the top hits the top cover. Instead of separating, it just hangs up. It's not the belt, the motor stops dead in its tracks.

Would be nice not to have to send these perfectly reading/writing drives to the landfill.

Ideas?

Reply to
mike
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The belt is deteriorating. If you replace the belt on the motor, it will usually fix this. What is happening is at the point of maximum load, as you describe, the belt slips. I've actually replaced the belt with just the right size of rubber band on some of these.

Jon

Reply to
Jon Elson

Friday's Fry's ad had a 24x DVD drive for $16. Is it worth repairing the ol d one?

Reply to
stratus46

The drive is made by HLDS (Hitachi-LG Data Storage). Generally, those are good drives.

Yeah. The belt is slipping or the magnetic puck has too strong a magnet. In your case, since the motor stops dead, it's not a slipping belt. My solution was to pile some tape onto the center of the lower motor spindle, to prevent the upper magnetic puck thing from getting to close to the motor and sticking.

Some good ideas here:

Also, don't forget to update the firmware:

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Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
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Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558
Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

As long as the belt is for the tray (I thought many drives had switched to a geared piece of plastic?), then of course a rubber band would work. They work as replacements for belts in more critical places, except their unnevenness may shine through. But since the belt on the drive is only opening and closing the tray, it isn't in a position to cause noise in the audio.

Michael

Reply to
Michael Black

old one?

Gee, I have five or six lying about, taken out of junk computers I've=20 found on the sidewalk. At that price, no, there isn't a lot of value in=20 spending much time on this (though maybe learning about the Drive is worth= =20 the time). One can strip the drive down before taking it to recycling,=20 not many useful for other projects parts except for the motors, but if you= =20 remove the metal and the plastic and separate it out, that is better than= =20 sending the drive intact to landfill.

Michael

Reply to
Michael Black

Something else to consider is stress-releiving distortion of plastic over time. I've only found it with the main user accessible drawer jamming in the guides and the motor , complete with new drive band, cannot overcome the friction/twisting/jamming (ie not a failed band). As most of the up/down mechanisms are also plastic running in plastic, perhaps the same could be occuring there. Remove the drive system and run the cycle through by hand, to see if there is a constricting point

Reply to
N_Cook

Electronics is my hobby. Fixing stuff is my hobby. Getting free stuff from garage sales is my hobby. My definition of hobby is doing stuff that no financial justification. I derive far more joy from fixing something and keeping it out of the landfill than driving to Fry's. So, yes, I'm gonna try to fix it.

The ratio of $16/free is a big number. If you applied that logic to all your activities, You'd be rich.

I've been behaving that way for half a century...and it works.

Yesterday, I picked up a $2 junker PC... mostly because it had a win7 license. Unfortunately, the damn thing works. I spent all day cleaning it up. I'm now the proud owner of a $5 investment computer that I could take to a swapmeet and get almost a buck for it. Makes me smile. Hobby, indeed...

Thanks, everybody for the inputs. I've tried putting a spacer between the bottom of the magnetic puck and the disk. Couldn't get enough reduction in magnetic force without losing friction on the disk. The link suggested putting the spacer at the magnet INSIDE the plastic puck. That way you get reduced magnetic force without losing the friction on the disk. I modified the worst offender. I have some sticky-backed plastic sheet 0.013" thick. Stuck it on the magnet, trimmed the excess, stuck it back together. Preliminary tests suggest that it's FIXED!!

I've got three of these...I just saved $48. And got an hour of orgasmic fixing joy. Another two bucks and I can celebrate at Starbucks with a small coffee. ;-)

Reply to
mike

Replace the motor or beef up the motor drive?

?-)

Reply to
josephkk

Buy a new motor instead.

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Waterloo Structures
Reply to
Waterloo Structures

Hell lot of hobbies!!....But they are always useful...

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Waterloo Structures
Reply to
Waterloo Structures

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