Best Phillips Screwdrivers?

For many years now, I have always used the black handle Xcelite Phillips screwdrivers with the chrome shaft & black tip. I outfitted my electronics bench with a fresh set a few years ago, and the #1 Phillips tip is already toast. I took apart a dead stick vacuum cleaner today that had a dozen screws down in holes, and I had to get my other #1 driver from my woodworking toolbox to finish the job. It is also showing signs of excess wear on the tip.

One problem is that the #1 tip is very pointy, and I think it is bottoming out on some screws, which increases its tendency to slip. This accellerates the damage & makes it more likely to slip the next time. The #2 tip is definitely rounded and no where near as pointy. The #0 seems to have a some of the same issue, but not as pronounced.

I'm going to have to replace the #1's (and may get another #0 as well), and was wondering if folks have a favorite brand that grips screws well and holds up better. I've had good luck with Wiha drivers in the past, but mostly for smaller stuff (jeweller's screwdriver size).

Thanks!

Doug White

Reply to
Doug White
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Isn't the issue that there is some Japanese variant of the Phillips screw, called something else, so while nominally a Phillips fits it, it's not really a match?

So either you can't open the screws, or it ruins the screwdriver in the process.

Michael

Reply to
Michael Black

Are you thinking of a pozidrive screw, if so a Phillips screwdriver shouldn't be used. See

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and
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and others. They're commonly mistaken and the wrong drivers used with the wrong screw potentially damages both the driver and the screw.

Reply to
David Billington

Maybe "Pozidriv" I use to run in to them while working on two-way radios. I had a couple special screwdrivers just for them. A regular Philips would work but was sloppy. They usually had four cut marks on the screw head for identification. See:

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There are several more possibilities too. Check out the link...

As far as screwdrivers... I tend to use 1/4 inch inserts when ever possible. Save the real screwdrivers for those deep holes where inserts won't work. They last much longer that way. I haven't bought any "good" ones for some time now. Nowadays it would be a guessing game. What was great and you bought a year ago could be re-sourced now and crap, yet look exactly the same...

I also use the Harbor Freight freebie set for stuff that doesn't need a good screwdriver :)

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Leon Fisk 
Grand Rapids  MI/Zone 5b 
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Reply to
Leon Fisk

There is a Pozidriv screw that looks very much like the Phillips screw. It will have 4 marks on it inbetween the 'slots' of the Phillips so you can tell which is which. The Phillips are made to cam out under so much force. You may need to get some of the Pozidriv screw drivers.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

David Billington wrote in news:o3rqf3$uur$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

to-

The screws I was working on this morning appear to be Phillips. At least there is no sign of the extra cross in the heads. I'm not sure how common Posi-Drive is these days. I tend to buy most of my hardware from McMaster Carr, and it's all regular Phillips. They don't even list Posi-Drive as an option, and they have quite a range of drive styles available.

It's possible that I've run into some Posi-Drives in the past, but the vast majority of the screws I see these days are plain old Phillips. I think Xcelite just isn't very careful with shaping the points on their drivers. Either that, or the screw manufacturers are making a lot of "Phillips" screws with shallow sockets. Or both...

Doug White

Reply to
Doug White

This would probably be a "JIS" screw. I have some Vessel brand and Wiha drivers that fit them well.

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Mr.E
Reply to
Mr.E

Firstly; AFAICR: Xcelite are part of the Cooper Tools group - The weller TCP1 soldering iron was pretty much the industry standard - till the bean counters at Cooper Tools decided that quality and reliability was an unnecessary extravagance.

There are various standards for crosspoint screw heads. You can get Philips and Posidrive just for starters - if you don't use the right tool; rapid failure is a certainty.

Another I've encountered is the screws on Japanese motorcycles, an impact driver didn't do any better than a regular T-bar screwdriver. Then I noticed the bottom of the cross was peened shiny - the point of the screwdriver was too long and the side blades were only half engaging. Just grazing the point of the screwdriver bit on the grinder, allowed it to fully seat into the crosspoint head. There was no more trouble after that.

Reply to
Benderthe.evilrobot

It has an alphanumeric designation.

The crosspoint head is shallower so the point of the bit bottoms out and the side blades only half engage.

Reply to
Benderthe.evilrobot

I think it is both. Crappy Chinese screws built to miss a loose standard combined with the same philosophy in building screw-drivers.

Actually many of the "international" screwdrivers are closer to a Frearson or Reed-Prince driver. The Frearson (reed prince) has a sharp point on the driver. Reed-Prince (Frearson) screws have a sharp square corner on each quarter of the head, while a philips has a rounded corner. A PoziDrived has the 4 light lines to identify it.

The drivers are NOT interchangeable.

Then you ban ad the JIS screws - The B1012s which are used on a lot of Japanese equipment - if not too tight a Philips driver will work, but the strip out if too tight. Actually closer to the Frearson driver profile. but the Frearson cross slot is of a smaller diameter than the JIS.

Reply to
clare

Doug-

Granted that some Phillips screwdrivers are made of soft metal. However most of my problems have been related to using the wrong size Phillips. In your original post, you mentioned using #0, #1 and #2 on the same screws.

I have found some Phillips drivers in auto parts stores that claimed to be heat-treated. They seem to last longer, but eventually become rounded as well.

Perhaps the suggestion to use "inserts" would do the job. I occasionally use Phillips bits with a drill/driver, and have not had one go bad yet. I think the drill/driver would be more abusive than a plain Phillips screwdriver.

Fred

Reply to
Fred McKenzie

Fred McKenzie wrote in news:fmmck-C67AE6.15484126122016@

46.sub-75-242-165.myvzw.com:

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The screws I was fighting with today were down in deep holes, so there was no way I could use an insert driver. The screws were small, and looked to be well suited to a #1. When that didn't work, I managed to get enough of a purchase with a #2 to get them out. One was in a smaller hole (same sized screw), and I could only get the #1 down it. If anything, I would have called the screws 1.5's...

The reason I mention #0, #1, & #2 was that I seem to have the most trouble with the Xcelite #1 drivers. Both examples I have are more pointy for their size than either the #0 or #2, and both #1's have the tips trashed. I don't recall if I bought them at the same time, but I don't think so.

Doug White

Reply to
Doug White

"Benderthe.evilrobot" wrote in news:P2f8A.324421$ snipped-for-privacy@fx19.am:

That sounds suspiciously like what I ran into today. Of course, it's impossible to tell when they are an inch down a narrow hole.

I'll have to investigate getting a special set of drivers for small appliance repair.

Doug White

Reply to
Doug White

Put some engineer's blue (or correction fluid) on the end of the screwdriver, seat it in the screw head and give it a sharp tap with something.

You may find that the coating on the pointy tip is compacted - you could maybe try grinding a very small bit off the pointy bit and see if it gives you more purchase.

Reply to
Benderthe.evilrobot

"Benderthe.evilrobot" wrote in news:5Bg8A.450261$ snipped-for-privacy@fx25.am:

That may work in the future, but for now, I have two #1 Phillips screw drivers with trashed tips I need to replace. Which brings me back to my original question...

Doug White

Reply to
Doug White

use a small triangular file for reshaping Phillips

cheap screwdrivers eg Wal are OK...chrome is the problem as witness cheap needle nose vs pro wiring pliers ,,,,but screw drivers as a single part usually doahn rust.

Craftsmen is next.

I have 2 sets inexpensive Chinese mini screws drivers all good near flying saucer steel for that torque range.

Reply to
avagadro7

I'm personally a big fan of Wera drivers, or Wiha for some of the more esoteric stuff. Vessel seems to be highly recommended for JIS stuff.

- Dan C.

Reply to
Dan Cross

I use mostly Craftsman (Sears) screwdrivers. My main driver is a #2 Philips with a long 8" shaft. It fits most appliances, computers, automotive, and consumer electronics devices. For small screws, I use a #1 but those are rare.

I was taught to test rotate the screwdriver in the Philips screw head before applying torque. If the driver is loose, or sloppy, don't use it or you'll wreck the head, the driver, or both. It should be a good tight fit, or you'll need to find the correct Philips-like driver. For those, I have a collection of various Philips-like drivers (Posidriv, Supadriv, Reed and Prince (Fearson), Sel-o-Fit, B.N.A.E, Lotus head, Japan Industrial Standard (JIS), French Recess, ACR Philips, Philips Square-Driv mix, Philips II, etc.

Note: If you use an electric or pneumatic screwdriver, plan on trashing screw heads and bits. I've found that I can effectively use an electric screwdriver to remove screws, but even with a clutch, I would strip heads and break tips when tightening screws.

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
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Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

I used to use those Xcelites and had the same complaints. Boss is always go ing on about Wiha and he's right. The Wiha 31115 is your basic #2 screwdriv er to replace the 'black handle' Xcelites. DigiKey has them for $9 in singl e quantity. I now have #000, #00, #0, #1 and #2. They fit like few others.

Reply to
stratus46

. I have worked on computers and cell phones for a living for the last 20 some years. I discovered Japan Cross (JIS) drivers early on. I use these Hozan JIS for the most part, mine are an earlier version but the steel is good and hard and fit the screws precisely. Rarely strip one unless someone has used a phillips on them before me. Most laptop screws have a drop of loctite applied to them from the factory, so they are tough to start sometimes. For my work these four sizes work for most all, but I use small torx bits quite a bit now days too.

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Reply to
Larry Fisk

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