bad solder joints -- threat or menace?

I believe we recently had a discussion about an unsoldered ribbon cable that had managed to make "acceptable" contact for many years, until...

I just had two "bad soldering" experiences that might be of interest.

Case 1: Both of my JVC XP-A1000 hall synthesizers had leaking power-supply caps. About two years ago I replaced the caps in one of them. Then, six months back, I replaced them in the other.

The second started having problems with oddball noises in the rear channels, including some that sounded like idle noise. They came and went. I finally ripped into the unit, and unsoldered my suspicious-looking joint on the negative side of one of the caps. The pad came loose! I used a piece of heavy solid wire to restore the connection. Et viola, the noise stopped.

Case 2: I hadn't used my Fosgate Tate II 101A SQ decoder in some years, and tested it for a project I'd planned. The decoding was all shook up. This looked bad, because the custom Exar chips used for logic control are no longer made. In fact, they went out of production before the initial product run of the Fosgate unit was completed, 30 years ago!

One of the designers told me how to confirm that the logic chips were okay. They were (big sigh of relief). This left the phase-shift networks, which have

1% caps that can (supposedly) drift. Not only are the caps expensive and hard to obtain, but unsoldering them runs the risk of destroying the foil.

The designer urged me to test the circuit's behavior (with a 'scope) before unsoldering. This really required a schematic -- but harman\kardon had destroyed all the schematics when it bought Fosgate! So I had no choice but to trace it out, starting with a close-up photo of the foil side.

Some of the solder joints didn't look so hot. I resoldered them. Need I go further? The unit is now working correctly.

"We already know the answers -- we just haven't asked the right questions."

-- Edwin Land

Reply to
William Sommerwerck
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Touching up questionable solder joints is the norm for me too, prior to digging deeper into many devices...

John :-#)#

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(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup) 
John's  Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) 
                      www.flippers.com 
        "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Reply to
John Robertson

I've repaired many intermittent units over the years by "wholesale" re soldering anything that looked suspicious. I may not have found the problem but I fixed the unit. Lenny

Reply to
captainvideo462009

Well, I'm not sure about your instance, but several years ago I repaired a 1986 Montgomery Ward TV simply by touching up all the suspicious solder joints that I found in the tuner section. It's been working fine ever since.

Good luck.

Reply to
RosemontCrest

That might not be intellectually satisfying, but it's what you have to do to keep the customer happy and your company in business.

Reply to
William Sommerwerck

same here. Once a board is in position for inspection, you might as well just solder anything that looks suspect. I'm pretty picky about solder joints and have send back many new boards for projects as they were just just garbage, and if you fix what they didn't do at the factory the warranty is then void.

Reply to
Cydrome Leader

Not to menion equipement that used single sided circuit boards. Common in the 70s and 80s, but pretty rare now. However I still see a lot of that in our servicing of older gear. B&W Vector monitors in late 70s video games commonly were SSCBs and the pin connectors crack at the solder joint...

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup) 
John's  Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) 
                      www.flippers.com 
        "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Reply to
John Robertson

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