automobile directional signals

Have you checked the RHS bulb wattages? Most indicators have a minimum operating wattage so if one bulb blows the dash WL lights continually to indicate a fault.

Earth point corrosion is another possibility - one of the indicator bulbs could be grounding via other bulbs in the light cluster.

Look in the workshop manual for the correct bulb ratings - buy & fit them. If still not flashing check lamp cluster earthing.

As soon as the crackerjack mind-readers in sci.electronics.repair devine the make and model of the car, they'll get right back to you.

No problem. Just tell her to make 3 left turns instead of a right turn until you get it fixed.

Since you didn't bother to disclose the maker and model of her vehicle, it would be difficult to determine if the flasher is a bi-metallic thermal flasher, or an electronic flasher. If thermal, such flashers cease flashing when a bulb is blown, has too small a load, or is presented with a high resistance connection. They also have the irritating habit of the contacts welding closed, which I think (not sure) might produce those symptoms. Same arcing problem with vehicles that have flasher relays.

Sure. Clean contacts and connections (steering column switch, bulb connectors, flasher connector, relay). Replace everything (bulbs, relay, and flasher). Whatever you do last, is usually what fixes the problem. My wild guess would be a flasher relay as in:

Probably not as it's the same capacitor on the left turn circuit.

Not the fuse but mighte be the switch. I'll bet on the relay. Reminder: Make and model of vehicle.

Is the ash tray full yet? You might be ready for a new car.

I have memorized this rule of thumb as "Two wrongs don't make a right, but three rights make a left."

fix it?

But the flasher relay works on the left turn signal.

I believe the flasher doesn't switch on the right because the load draws more current than it should, indicating most likely that the wrong bulb(s) were used or that somehow there is a current path parallel to the bulb. First I would take out each bulb, checking to see if the other flashes. (The open circuit should result in high speed flashing, then reseat the bulbs and try again. Make a note of the bulb numbers and check against owner's manual.

IIRC, when we used to go trailering we had to put a heavier duty signal-stat into our car, to switch the increased load of the parallel trailer turn signal lights. Otherwise they would just light up.

I have memorized this rule of thumb as "Two wrongs don't make a right, but three rights make a left."

But the flasher relay works on the left turn signal.

I believe the flasher doesn't switch on the right because the load draws more current than it should, vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

Pretty unlikely - it would flash fast and/or buzz if overloaded, in any event the OP says the hazard flasher works OK, so the relay must be rated at least 96W.

You have to meet the minimum wattage (somewhere around 42W) otherwise it lights continuously to prompt investigation of possible blown bulb.

Either some numpty has put a 5W sidelight bulb instead of one of the indicator bulbs, or there's an earthing failure on one of the light clusters (the indicator is grounded via one of the sidelight bulbs).

Grounding faults at the rear often show up when the brake lights operate - with sidelights off; the brake light grounds through the sidelight, so one brake light is less than half bright .

With sidelights on; the affected sidelight grounds through the brake light bulb - and goes out altogether when the brakes are applied.

Correct. Three ultra right wing politicians have the same effect as one left wing politician.

Yep and until we ascertain what manner of vehicle we're dealing with, it's difficult to determine how it's wired and what might be wrong. I'll pass instead of guess.

Turn signal wiring diagrams:

Note that most vehicles have TWO turn signal relays and sometimes TWO thermal flashers:

In my limited experience, an open circuit usually results in no lights flashing because there is no circuit between the flasher and the bulbs. However, if one of the two bulbs involved was blown, the remaining light will light and not flash, while the blow light will ummm... act like a blown light and not light. In this case, both lights are lit, which makes a bulb failure unlikely.

That's a likely possibility. However, my crystal ball and Ouija Board both concur that the most likely culprit is an arced shut relay. Hopefully, when the OP returns, we can determine whether your logic and experience will triumph over my guesswork and magic.

Two wrongs may not make a right, but two Wrights make an airplane.

Here's the poster:

Several successive wrongs cannot make a right, but statistically, the next wild guess will be a right.

Two wrongs do not make a right, but do tend to create a pattern or policy.

Two right angles make a parallel.

Repeat a wrong often enough, and it becomes a right.

Two wrongs making rights or wrongs is irrelevant to those that can't recognized the difference between right and wrong.

One oh-shit can negate a lifetime of rights.

That which is most obviously correct, beyond any need of checking, is probably a wrong.

When all the wrongs have been eliminated, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be a right.

For every right, there are an infinite number of wrongs. For every wrong, there is a very limited number of rights. Therefore, most of reality is wrong.

Everything on the line below is right. Everything on the line above is wrong.

Well most likely fault is the earth connection to one of the lamps which would also fit with a low current not operating the flasher. Assuming of course the correct wattage lamps are fitted and it is not an electronic flasher.

I just bought 2 bulbs for a 1994 Mercury Marquis for $1.36 each. I didn't know if it was the back or the front, so I guessed and chose the rear. Then there were two bulbs. I didn't know which one might be bad. I had two new bulbs so I put both of them in and they started blinking. So I guess I solved the problem. I put everything back together, tested it again and it worked ok.

The motorcycle electronic flasher I recently stripped looks like it wouldn't stop blinking to indicate a fault if a bulb blew, like a proper car one would.

I sort of prefer to replace bike indicator relays with car one's - they just seem to work better. So any excuse will do.

The majority of car types I've pried open for a look inside; use a Siemens chip with a pin for a current sensing resistor.

Its designed to meet all sorts of rules & regulations - which the bike one I stripped obviously didn't.

The schematic is posted on A.B.S.E with subject line: Indicator relay post-mortem.

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Aha!

Knowing what the old bulbs were would be instructive, assuming that they had been lighting up, because we could compare their rated current draw to that of the proper bulbs. (Assuming the car is indeed a Mercury Marquis.)

very funny. I fixed the lights a few weeks ago. was it the front or the rear? I just chose the rear, and I replaced both bulbs. Now it works so forget it. It doesn't matter why. Jon

(...)

"Directional Signals"?

I've been driving in California for the last few decades and have completely forgotten what part of the car that is.

Can you help?

:)

--Winston