12VDC to 120VAC inverter problem.

I have a 300W, 12VDC to 120VAC inverter. It's worked fine in my car for years, to power my laptop computer, a medical device I need when I am "on the road", and even some small power tools. Recently it started acting weird. Sometimes it wont turn on, (LED is lit). Or it keeps cycling on and off. Often, I have to plug it into the cig lighter in my car repeated times to get it to work.

I tore it apart the other day and after removing it from the aluminum case, I carefully checked for loose solder joints, using a magnifying glass, wiggling parts, looking for any burnt or other obvious bad parts. Everything looked ok.

With it out of the case, I plugged it in, and found it worked perfectly. I used it numerous times out of the case, and it worked each and every time. However, I was careful not to load it too hard, because the case is used as a heatsink, and outside the case, the transistors are not heat sinked, and I could feel them getting warm, but not hot, becuase the load was low.

After several days of working perfectly, I put it back in the case, and immediately it failed to work. I was careful to make sure the power cord was not applying pressure to the circuit board, and everything else was correctly mounted into the case.

One thing I noted is that the board slides into slots on that molded alum case, and there are solder joints extremely close to that edge.

My thinking is that even though it worked fine for years, one of them solder joints is touching the case and grounding out. But why it did not do that in the past makes little sense. If I could, I'd put some electrical tape along that edge, but it slides into a groove with no spare room.

Since I need this badly, for medical needs, I decided to just buy a new one . I got a 400W, and thought that would work fine. However, that one has a built in buzzer which is loud and extremely annoying. As soon as I plug it in, it "screams" at me until it's "settled". Besides annoying, I often use these inverters when I go camping, with a portable 12V battery, and having this think scream in the middle of the night is not acceptable. Needless to say, I'm returning it for a refund.

So, until I am able to find one without that annoying buzzer, I need to use my old one. All I can think is to leave it out of the original case, mount some heat sinks to the transistors and put it into a non-conductive case, made of plastic or wood.

I am posting this because I wonder if anyone knows what else could cause it to fail to work inside the case, yet work perfectly outside. The amount of work and cost of another case is almost not worth all the trouble to re-case it, but it seems that most of the new ones have those annoying buzzers. Why they have that, is beyond me, but I refuse to have to cope with that noise.

Reply to
oldschool
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Simple Answer: 1) Desolder buzzer leg. Deluxe answer: 2) Put a switch inline with buzzer

Either that or chewing gum strategically inserted to reduce volume ...

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Mike Brown: mjb[-at-]signal11.org.uk  |    http://www.signal11.org.uk
Reply to
Mike

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Purchase an inverter that alarms only when actually needed - after all, ala rms are there for a reason. Low battery voltage will damage both the invert er and sulphate the battery, altogether a stupid, wasteful idea. Go up to a t least 500 watts. Most inverters do not like being run at even 50% of rati ng. And the incremental cost is tiny. Furthermore, the closer an inverter i s run to its rating, the greater the lost-to-use ratio. So, by going to a l ower-rated inverter, you are draining your battery that much faster.

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Purchase 'resist' lacquer and coat both the slots on the case and the trace s on the board. This can be done as either a spray or a pen. This may salva ge your existing device.

It is really not a good idea from a life-safety position to run an inverter without the cover. A modified square wave is far more damaging than a pure sine-wave - and you are no more than a 10,000 ohm, 1/4 watt resistor assum ing you are otherwise entirely healthy with no compromising medical conditi on.

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Reply to
pfjw

Maybe try painting the case and/or solder joints to insulate them?

Reply to
Mike Paff

One thing to watch out for is standby current drain. I've found a huge difference in no-load power consumption of different inverters. This can make a huge difference in low-load run time. Or if you don't turn it off between uses.

Reply to
mike

The transistors are likely insulated from the case. Check for insulator failure. Painting the board to insulate it from the slots in the case is unlikely to last for long. Use something more robust like Kapton tape.

Reply to
mike

I found out about 20 years ago that power tools need a lot more current than I imagined, when I was out in the woods trying to use a drill with a $20 converter. It wouldn't spin at all.

But as to your laptop, or at least as to my laptop, I just use something that plugs into the cigarette lighter. IIUC there is substantial or even great waste of power converting DC to AC just so it can be changed in the laptop back to DC.

Of course how the 12 volts in the car is raised to 19v, I don't know????? Nor do I *know* if it wastes power but I think it wastes very little. The one below says, and I haven't measured it but I believe it, "Power: Input 12V-16V/ 10AOutput: 19.5V 4.62A 90Watt;"

This was for the used laptop I bought this summer: Car Charger for Dell Latitude 13 131l 2100 2110 D400 D420 D430 D500 D520 D530 D531 D600 D620 D630 D630 XFR D631 D820 D830 E4200 E4300 E4310 E5400 E5410 E5500 E5510 E6400 E6400 ATG E6410 E6500 X300 Xt

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They have them for just about everything.

I haven't tried this one yet, because I'm not taking any car trips until November, but I used my Acer several times with a similar charger and everything was fine. I would park in front of a bank, McDonalds, or on two occasions a hotel and use their wifi. All but one of these times was at night so there was no place where I could actually go inside, and come to think of it McDonalds was at 7 or 8AM and they weren't open yet.

But the point is that the power supply worked and the power monitor even said the battery was being charged.

Also, using this has helped me cut down on my smoking.

Reply to
micky

And only $17.50, so even if I used a converter, I'd want to have this rathher small thing in case the converter failed.

Reply to
micky

That's a good idea. I did not think to check that....

I sort of think that paint would not last long, unless I applied it real thick. What is "Kapton" tape? I never heard of that.

Although I do my best to keep stuff like this inverter from getting abused, anything that sits around between the car seats tends to get tossed around and fall off the seat, and so on. The case is a heavy aluminum, and it's not dented or anything, but it could have been pressed tighter to that board, and thus shorted over time. \ Although inverters are fairly cheap, I hate to toss this one that works fine outside the case and was always dependable in the past. Not ot mention it lacks them damn noisy buzzers. Instead a red LED lights if the battery power gets low. (A much better design).

Reply to
oldschool

Yes, that was my first thought, desolder that damn buzzer.... But I kind of hate doing that on a new inverter, in case it needs warranty repair or replacement.

Reply to
oldschool

I never knew inverters differred in standby current draw, but I did know they use current with no load on their output. I alwauys turn the inverter off when it's not in use.

Reply to
oldschool

Or, if the points at which the short might occur can be identified, countersink the slot at those points.

Mike.

Reply to
Mike Coon

I'd start by googling it.

Reply to
mike

Kapton tape is an amber colored tape that is heat resistant. It has been used for insulation of some of the two plate type capacitors that use a screw to move the plates close together.

It is now often used in the SMD soldering to protect the parts not to be disturbed. I have placed a piece over components and cut a hole over the part where I want to use the hot air gun.

While not clear, you can still see through it.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

Cig lighter sockets and plugs (and the fuse holders they may contain) may corrode and otherwise "get weak"

Reply to
malua mada!

They are also limited in capacity by design. For full inverter capacity, you need to connect directly to the battery.

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Reply to
pfjw

How old is the car battery?

Reply to
Ian Field

That dont matter, because I tried it in my car, in my truck, and on my NEW portable battery, which is fully charged.

Reply to
oldschool

Cigarette lighter sockets which have been used to light cigs, always make poor connections. They are full of carbon, ashes, and other crap. Back when I smoked, I had to regularly replace the lighters. They never lasted long. Several times I had to replace both the lighter and the socket.

The one in my car was never used as a lighter, so it makes a fairly good connection. My truck has 3 sockets. One contains a lighter, the other two are only for plugging stuff in. That was a good setup. Most (or all) new cars dont evne have cig lighters anymore. I guess they figure that everyone on earth has quit smoking.... But they dont consider that those sockets have other uses. New cars have USB connectors, but they have limited uses. I'd rather have a 12V Cig lighter socket. Those USB plugs that go into cig lighter sockets only cost a buck.

Reply to
oldschool

As does anything that's been around awhile. Wireless chargers are out now (for iPhone X and Samsung Galaxy 6 and later). You simply put the phone on its surface and its ready to go about an hour later.

Reply to
bruce2bowser

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