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PCB photo/etch chemicals

I'd like to, occasionally, make my own PCBs for "stuff". The key here is "occasionally"...

I'm sort of assuming that, short of using a commercial fab house (which is expensive), I'll either need to use a "pcb-in-a-bag" type kits, or the various chemicals. I'm thinking that I can either do:

Fotoboard + etch resist remover + ferric chloride

or

Plain board + photoresist + resist remover + ferric chloride

Assuming one one of the above 3 options (bag, Fotoboard version or Plain board version), which is likely to survive the longest under a cupboard without the chemicals losing their ability?

--
Cheers, Ade.  http://meddlingmonk.blogspot.com

"Your face reminds me of a roadkill's arsehole. Certainly not on my list 
of things to kiss." - http://sleeptalkinman.blogspot.com
Reply to
Ade
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You might consider the Press'n'Peel Blue stuff, used with the laser printer toner transfer technique. The sheets should be shelf stable as long as they're kept in the package and away from dust, debris, and excessive cat hairs.

The most consistent results are probably obtained with a fuser, like a GBC laminator, although some folks report doing just fine with only an ordinary clothes iron. One could also use inkjet glossy photo paper (printed in the laser) as the transfer medium but that's a bit messier since the photo paper needs to be soaked loose in water.

I get clean 10/10 results with the P'n'P medium, although 15/15 is more comfortable.

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Rich Webb     Norfolk, VA
Reply to
Rich Webb

Once upon a time, the folks over at Pulsar

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had instructions on how to modify a GBC H200 model laminator to accept standard 1/16" (1.6mm) stock. I looked around over there and those instructions are long gone, as well as that laminator model. A link at
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suggests that there was a UK model "GBC Docuseal 95P laminator" that may have been equivalent and *if* you can find one in working condition, we may be able to find or re-engineer the mods necessary.

Aha!

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For what it's worth, I did the mod and it does work with 1/16" now, but I have found that I actually prefer using 1/32" (0.8mm) material. It cuts with tin snips (or even heavy scissors) and there is less mess from drilling.

Yes, but in US-ian mils (thousandths of an inch).

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Rich Webb     Norfolk, VA
Reply to
Rich Webb

the ferric chloride is good forever. just check the container from time to time. sometimes they do weird things like shrink or look sucked in.

Reply to
Cydrome Leader

The best etchant I've ever used "d-i-y" is muriatic acid (from the handyman store) activated 5:1 with hydrogen peroxide (from the drug store).

Toss a steel wool pad it in when you are done. The copper will eventually plate out onto the steel and the remaining spent etchant is not a hasmat.

Relatively benign chemistry and nickels and dimes to buy.

Jim

Reply to
RST Engineering

Muratic acid is the product. It's used to clean concrete and in pools.

--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

I've never seen the point, meself, in going to all the trouble of etching a board for a one-off project. Stripboard is far cheaper, simpler and quicker to use.

Cheers, Pete.

Reply to
Pete Wilcox

muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. it's sold in 1 gallon jugs in the US at hardare stores. I'm not sure of the concentration, but even the smallest splashes will eat holes in clothing and burn skin.

Reply to
Cydrome Leader

That's ok at lower frequencies, but can be a problem at UHF and up. It would have been a real mess trying the when I built a C-band modulator to test sat TV receivers about 20 years ago. :)

--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

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