How to disassemble this rice cooker?

Rubber bumpers on the bottoms of the feet?

Isaac

No bumpers or feet. Just discs molded in the plastic bottom (as part of the bottom--not separate).

It's a real puzzle.

search you tube for a "teardown" ig you don't find one make one.

Have you removed the screw holding the lid? It might move you forward.

I suspect it's just a thermal fuse gone. But I can't for the life of me get it open.

It seems that the bottom must come off first. No screws visible anywhere. No hidden screws (under labels) on the bottom.

There was a screw under a label on the side near the bottom and it looked like it attached the bottom plastic casting to the stainless drum. But removing that didn't loosen up anything at all.

I'm prying and heaving with everything short of breaking it apart and... nothing.

Has anyone opened one of these? I've seen other Tatung models (ie, on YouTube) but those have a metal plate for a bottom and 2 simple, visible screws.

Ideas?

Thanks.

I'd suggest a BFH (big friggin hammer) - they can take anything apart!!

Is it possible the bottom "force-fits" into the rest of the unit?

Have you called Tatung?

(310) 637-2105

Drill a 10mm hole and insert a small explosive charge. After it disassembles, the hole can be covered over with a patch of material and putty filler used to smooth the join followed with a layer of matching paint. If done neatly, there should be no evidence of the 10mm hole being made.

I discovered it. It's a snap-together design not intended to ever be disassembled (i.e., fixed). Flimsy stainless tube crimped at the ends mates with the molded plastic bottom and top rim around the inner cooking drum.

Yes I'll make a YT video after I've completed disassembly, diagnosis and repair.

Thanks for your suggestions.

Keywords (for future USENET searchers): Tatung TRC-10STW TRC-6STW rice cooker steamer.

So I was right -- unfortunately.

Epoxy, anyone?

No, no epoxy required. It snaps apart (with some aggressive help) and will snap back together.

The stainless body will look a bit dented when it's all done but should otherwise be fully functional without adhesive, plastic welding, or filler work.