F-Series connector question

They are different sizes, and not interchangeable.

Thanks.

The diameter of RG6 is closer to that of CT100, about 7mm. RG59 is about 6mm. It matters more with screw-on connectors, there are crimp- style F connectors that will supposedly fit all of those. I haven't done any cabling work for over 20 years, so be skeptical and do some websearching. Here's one possibly useful lead:

I have never seen a screw on "F" connector that was worth a damn. They all had high RF leakage that got worse with age. The shield is aluminum foil, and steel drain wires. The crimp pierces the oxide layer on the aluminum foil, and makes a lot better contact. I used to test samples from various manufacturers and vendors for United Video, and very few really were worth using. The hex crimp were the best of the lot, but even then, there was some garbage. A company sent us some beautiful, all brass "F" connectors that passed all the tests. A few weeks later, every one of them had oxidized enough that they failed the retest.

That's what I've heard. I've tried a few and the screw threads seem to cut off the braid rather than trap it.

Got another question...

I know bulkhead mounted sockets exist but does anyone make one where the cable is crimped at right angles behind the panel? The best I've managed to find so far is a right angled double socket which would require a crimp plug as well. .

My problem is my builder put in shallow back boxes. They will just about take standard dual F face plates but they only seem to be available in white in the UK (and certainly not in the style we have in our house). I managed to find some blank plates the right colour and need to mount some F sockets on them. Regular straight bulkhead mounted sockets would mean the cable making a very tight bend right behind the connector which is asking for trouble. Hence the need for a right angle bulkhead connector.

plug

Sorry i meant all I've found is a male to female. That requires a straight socket to socket and an F plug.

The bulkhead adapter to pass through the wall plate is an "F-61". I have plenty of the 90° male to female adapters on hand. You might have to put a hole neat the top or bottom of a blank wall plate. The only other option is to bring the coax through the hole, and crimp a connector outside of the wall plate. Leviton makes some snap in "F" connectors and telephone jacks that fit their "Cat 5" wall plates, but they look like they require more depth than a standard "F-61" Some of the "F-61" have short threads on one end, and longer threads to pass through the plate and mounting nut. These are the grade typically used by CATV and MATV companies. I may still have a few on hand.

Thanks but those I have found.

That's looking like the best option. Makes it easier to fit everything back there.

I used to buy blank plates that matched whatever was was used in a home or office and drill custom wall plates. Stainless steel was the easiest. Old fashioned Bakelite was the hardest. It had to be drilled from the back, at a very slow speed and with low pressure to prevent it from disintegrating when the bit broke through.

Yeah exactly what I'm doing. I got 20 blanks when I ordered the standard sockets. Will be using some for the network, some for TV and some on dimmers. Made two Speakon plates for the audio today.

It's these shallow back boxes my builder used for the TV thats the pain. I could do it reasonably easily if I cut the wire short but I like to leave as much as poss in the back box for the future. Each box has two coax as well which complicates things a bit. Can't pull more cable through unfortunately so cutting short would be a risk.

Are the boxes steel or plastic? If they are plastic, can you cut out the back of the box? I used mud rings instead of outlet boxes wherever I could. Depending on the number of boxes, and the finish on the wall, I have removed boxes and installed a different box, or a mud ring before repairing and repainting the area.

BTW: A "Mud ring" is just a metal or plastic plate to screw a wall plate to. During new construction I would tie a piece of nylon cord to the end of the wires, and staple the end of the cord to the stud, directly behind the mud ring. After the drywallers or plasterers are done, you pull out the wire you need and install the connectors and wall plate. Computer, telephone and TV wiring are all class II, and normally don't require a box.

Mostly steel ones unfortunately. Some are plastic and those are in stud walls - I can replace those ones easily but the others are steel jobs screwed and plastered in. I've replaced a steel box before but the thought of having to do 6 or 7 and make good isn't very appealing.

You have to decide which is easier. Replacing the box, or all the extra work to use it. If you keep the existing boxes and something needs changed at a later date, you'll have to go through all of the problems again.