Anybody knows the perfect Press'n Peel usage method?

the problem is that i've clean it very good before i started. first i've cleaned the PCB with acetone to remove fingerprints, then i've put it in ferric chloride for about 1-2 minutes, then i've clean it with an dry absorbant paper, and only then i've ducktaped the PnP to the PCB. Maybe it was the iron temperature ... first i've ironed it at "syntetic" mark for about 5 minutes, then for another 3 minutes at greater temperature (next mark on the iron dial). Is possible that i've lifted the PnP, i don't know exactly ... btw, i'm using White PnP because is cheaper then the Blue PnP, i do so because nobody was able to tell me what is the difference betwen those two except "the blue one is better" why? nobody can tell ... maybe is the price (the blue one is 3 times more expensive then the white one). Anyway ... i will keep trying 'till I finish my White PnP stock ... then i'm going to try another method ... i heard that UV sensitive PCB is "the one" ... if is not too expensive ...

PS i find somewhere something about using spray acetone after, when the circuit is imprimed on PCB, it seems that the toner is going to stick to the copper better and is going to fill the eventual gap or line interruptions ... anybody heard something like that?

All my experience with PnP has to do with Blue; I have never used White. I know that Blue peels off, White is soaked off in water. Supposedly Blue allows smaller traces than White (I know Blue does allow small traces because I've done them). With Blue, the iron (I use a clothes iron) does have to be hot enough (I select "linen") and pressure

- but not too much - is necessary. It takes some practice!

In the 1970's I had photographic supplies and did make PC boards using high contrast "copy" sheet (5x7) film and spray-on resist. The results were very, very good. I went to PnP only after losing my darkroom when I moved my household.

Hi Check this :

Has lot of infos for PnP (Blue) I think "Blue" is more resistant on "scracthes", and has better "resolution", meaning , doing thinner tracks with it. We going down to some mil's with it. however I prefer these method than UV exposure, because is good for prototypes on the fly, and more cost effective also!!! Regards

Sotris Pdmtr

ASPiSYS Ltd. P.O.Box 14386 Athens 11510 GREECE Tel : +30 210 7719 544 Fax : +30 210 7714 983

Get this month's EPE , someone in the UK published his preferred method .

:)

-A

Have you set your printer properties for maximum DPI?

I sent output to an old HP and got half the page printed (what did print looked good). Played around and figured out that it didn't have much memory (tweaked the resolution downwards); the whole thing printed then, but transfer results looked poor.