Error of % + digits?

Not really. If you can only count with your fingers you probably aren't building anything impressive to start with. The entire fallacy of "metric is easy, base 10, duh" is just bullshit. Check dimensions of anything designed by people that don't know what fractions are. There are tons of weird numbers like 13.1mm and so forth. It's no different than 1-1/8th inches.

The guage for sheet metal is sort of obnoxious. It will vary by type of metal as well, if that makes any sense.

how many microns thick is your plastic trash bag? The last ones I got were speced on the box as "0.7 mil" There's no false sense of precision there, like with the 610mm countertop or whatever it was.

Would round be 320mm and 430mm instead of 317 and 429? Do you split in 5mm increments too? I'm really curious about this.

It took you more than a week to think up that comeback? Anyway, good luck with your self-appointed job of reforming the usage of American slang which, by the way, has pervaded much of the world outside the US.

And what does "entuire" mean? Blimey! Skitt's Law, you know, old boy.

That would be quite acceptable if the context were known.

The simpson meters are interesting in that they have as many jacks as they they positions on the switch. You really need to move the leads around all the time to do anything. I guest it makes you think, a little. I did catch myself reading the ohms range wrong though recently.

I just got one of those clamp current multimeters. I noticed some glaring limitations vs the full out Fluke 87 V, but at the same time, it's way more "idiot-proof".

The current ranges, even for DC at only available though the current clamp. It's just not possible to short anything out with the test probes. The downside (not really surprising) is no low current ranges. Ok fine. The input impedance is pretty low at 1Meg as well, but for poking at line voltage wiring, this is fine. Again, no matter what range you are set it, it appears to be impossible to blow up the meter as it has no low resistance across the leads modes. The ohms range seems to max out at 40k or something surprisibly low like that, again, no big deal for prodding at lighting circuits or an outlet, or some 24 volt circuit.

Getting all sorts of wonky reading with the banana jack type K thermocouple though. It seems the meter has an internal thermometer and it compares to the junction at the end of the probe. Not really sure how that all works and how the temperatures of the banana jacks affect things as they are not the special metals in the leads of the probe. I know with normal process controllers, and deviation of the correct connector or metals used will result in really strange readings.

Hmm, Remeber those neon voltage testers with two leads and the bizarre shirt pocket clip? I had one go out on me, showed no voltage when there was some. Whoops.

Now I use one of those ground/wiring testers. I figure it will still light up if one neon indicator fails.

Meters like the T1000 are for quick go or no go test mainly. For what they are mainly used for it does not make any differnece if they are off by even 10 %. For quick tests in an industrial enviroment it does not matter if the control voltage is 115.25 volts when anything from around

110 to 130 volts is close enough. Most circuits will have less than 1000 ohms resistance , many of the motors will show up as an almoat short if the windings are good. Fuses are almost shorts or opens.

The Fluke 87 and meters like that are more for electronic tests. The specs on them are very good and will be accurate to one or two decimal places.

When I worked I had access to almost any kind of meter or test set. I often grabbed my Simpson 260 and analog Ampprobe for the equipment that would not start or run. However I would stick the Fluke 'Bananna' in my pocket to check some things like the fuses in a power circuit.

For the instruments where they needed to be measured to less than 1 % out came the fluke 87 or more likely a special piece of equipment that has a Heart interface. That reads signals on the instrument lines.

Yes, I used one very often. One learns to put the leads across a source that should have voltage on it to see if the neon bulb lights up, then put it to the point to test and if the neon does not light up, go back to a point that should have voltage on it.

Bad thing about where I worked there was so many wires in conduit that the neon would light up even if there was no 'real' voltage on the wire. Just induced voltage that if put under much of a load at all will seem to diaspear. It is still enough to shock the crap out of you, especially if wet with sweat.

You miss the point, it's not the end of the world.

A scorched hand, no, not the end of the world.

A stopped heart, which *can* happen if the arc flash conducts enough current through the wrong part of the body, well then for the one who's heart just got stopped it might just be the end of the world.

It seldom travels that path.

Probably perfectly.

cool story.

In America we have fuses and circuit breakers. Check youtube for a video about how they work.

Much more sensible. Guage is meaningless and is the wrong way round, higher numbers are smaller!

There seems to be no standard for doors. You can order about 15 different sizes in the UK, but never anywhere near the one you need.

I use the most sensible denomination for the job. I won't say 600mm when I could say 60cm. And I weigh myself in stone, not pounds.

I meant does it automatically work out if you want to test for current or voltage?

You think all I do is reply in here?

It's not said in the UK. We can speak our own language correctly.

Learn the difference between a typo and stupidity.

Why make your conversations like jpeg encoding?

You speak for all of the UK? My my, what delusions of grandeur. And who are you to try to enforce the exclusive use of British English in a newsgroup?

Do you realise that that sentence itself is a condensed form? Still Skitt's Law.