Sparepærer?

...

Hej Axel

Her står "alt" om sparepærenes gasudladningsrør:

Det bedste ville nok være elektrodeløs gasudladningsrør, da der så ikke kan komme revner ved rørets elektrodegennemføringer.

-

Svagheden er i dag hovedsageligt de elektroniske HF-forkoblinger - især hvis de anvendes ved for høj omgivelsestemperatur. For hver højere 10°C ca. halveres levetiden:

Lysdiodemodul levetids eksempel som funktion af chip-temperatur - se pdf-side 22 (papir side 21): hueyjann.tw: HPR20D-19K10xWx(REV D):

Mange sparepæres og lysdiodepæres elektroniske HF-forkoblinger anvender for ringe elektrolytkondensatorer, som måske holder 5-10 år med lidt god vilje. Hvem gemmer kvitteringen i 5-10 år og ved hvilke pære kvitteringen hører til? Eksisterer sælgeren og producenten om 5-10 år?

Det er derfor man som det første ved reparation af elektronikudstyr næsten obligatorisk skal teste elektrolytkondensatores ESR og skifte dem ud med for høj ESR. Hvis en elektrolytkondensator i en SMPS DC->DC konverter først får for høj ESR, kan der også futte andre ting af.

EEVblog #347 - Bad Cap LCD Monitor Repair (monitor fra 2007):

EEVblog #365 - ESR Meter Bad Cap Monitor Repair:

-

Omkring år 1999 og en del år frem, blev der anvendt for ringe elektrolyt til mange apparater, hvilket gjorde at de fejlede efter få måneder til år hvis de ikke blev anvendt så tit:

About Badcaps.net: Citat: "... The bad capacitor issue really began to blossom into the mainstream as a 'real world' problem around 1999, and continues on to the present day. It now being 2010, I am STILL seeing later model boards with this problem. The tale behind why the capacitor problem exists in the first place is because of a large-scale industrial espionage foul-up. ... They didn't discover this until it was too late and they had manufactured and distributed literally MILLIONS of these flawed capacitors. However, it's been going on way too long to simply blame on an industrial espionage boo-boo in my humble opinion, as this problem is still extremely common, and hasn't slowed down. Personally, I think it all boils down to shoddy components that are manufactured by shoddy component makers. ..."

/Glenn

...

Hej Axel

Her er mere:

Kompaktlysstofrør:

Citat: "... In addition to the wear-out failure modes common to all fluorescent lamps, the electronic ballast may fail, since it has a number of component parts. Ballast failures may be accompanied by discoloration or distortion of the ballast enclosure, odors, or smoke.[69] The lamps are internally protected and are meant to fail safely at the end of their lives. Industry associations are working toward advising consumers of the different failure modes of CFLs compared to incandescent lamps, and to develop lamps with inoffensive failure modes.[70] New North American technical standards aim to eliminate smoke or excess heat at the end of lamp life.[71] ..."

(

)

/Glenn

On 25/05/13 17.01, Axel Hammerschmidt wrote:

...

Hej Axel

Jeg har kun Osram kompaktlysstofrør - og lysdiodepærer (LED) (en Toshiba kertelpære E14, Toshiba E27, philips E27 og to halogenpæresorrogater). Har også en koldhvid lysdiodepære i det nye køleskab.

PS: Både kompaktlysstofrør og lysdiodelamper er sparepærer.

Købte 3..4 lysdiode halogenpæresorrogater - den ene fejlede grundet løs forbindelse.

Osram kompaktlysstofrørene blev valgt for deres højkvalitets varmhvide lys. De har endnu ikke fejlet - er mindst 5 år gamle. De var dyre i indkøb.

Alle andre billigere kompaktlysstof på købstidspunktet var koldhvide og blev derfor fravalgt. Dog er der af og til blevet købt billige Netto koldhvide kompaktlysstofrør - kun én af dem anvendes i varmekælderrummet.

-

Her er mere:

January 14, 2009, When CFLs Fail: How to Keep Your Compact Fluorescent Glowing:

sylvania CFL bulb burned out after a few months!! What is up with this CFL bulb? It burned out after a few MONTHS in a bathroom fixture where the previous regular bulb had lasted several YEARS because we hardly ever use that light. The CFLs are expensive, but I thought I was doing the right thing to conserve electricity. Now I have this burned-out bulb that I can't even throw away because of the mercury. This is nuts!!! I won't be buying any more of these:

The myth of the CFL [kompaktlysstofrør]:

Citat: "...

6) When we bought the house, we changed about half the bulbs to CFL - 14 of 35 bulbs. In the four years since, I have burned out five of them. The only incandescent I have burned out is the one I hit with a ladder. That's a 35% failure rate for CFL, and 5% for incandescent. WAIT! 35% in four years, versus 5% for over five years... THE CFL DOES NOT LAST LONGER!! ..."

February 28, 2010, Real-world compact fluorescent bulb life:

Citat: "... Two of the bulbs were manufactured by Philips. One was installed in a seldom-visited garage 1.5 years ago and had been on for perhaps 1 hour per week. So it lasted 75 hours. I don?t think that it was temperature extremes that killed it because it was stamped ?Outdoor?. ... And who has tried the new LED light bulbs? Are they ready for prime time? I am ready to give up on CFL. ... I have CFL lamps that are in nightly service and seldom burn out ? the ones that do are many years old. An exterior light that is on all night every night needs to be replaced every ~10,000 hours of operation (and although sheltered isn?t exterior-rated), so the temperature extreme (-20°F ? +105°F) doesn?t seem to be much of a factor.. ... Clearly older CFLs can be reliable, and clearly more-recent CFLs are not. There must be some difference in manufacture. Is there any way to distinguish between reliable and too-cheap CFLs? ... All the other Philips products are low quality products. For CFL, choose OSRAM. ..."

About failed CFLs (pics):

28 Jan 2013, Premature failure of compact fluorescent lights:

-

Med diagrammer:

Compact Fluorescent Lamp (CFL):

Citat: "... Failures

Common failure is broken capacitor C3. it is possible mainly at cheap lamps, where are used cheaper components for lower voltage. Whet the pipe doesn't lights up on time, there are risk of destroying transistors Q1 and Q2 and next resistors R1, R2, R3 and R5. When lamp starts, changer is very overloaded and transistors usually doesn't survive longer temperature overloading. When the pipe serve out, electronics is usually destroyed too. When the pipe is old, there can be overburned one of filaments and lamp doesn't lights up anymore. Electronics usually survives. Sometimes can be pipe broken due to internal tension and temperature difference. Most frequently lamp fails, when power on. ..."

"Normal" Failures:

Citat: "... A 33nF 400V Vishay or Philips MKT polyester cap is rated at only 32V AC at 30kHz. As the temperature increases, the voltage rating is reduced even further. These caps are not safe, and should not be used if their voltage rating is exceeded (which it is, in almost all cases). A data sheet for these caps is available from any number of sources. Check for MKT370 data sheet(s), or click here. ... In the US, even the Underwriter's Laboratory (UL) claims that smoking and overheating was a common occurrence for this type of lamp at end of life. It beggars belief that anyone, anywhere, would call this normal. ... The above lamp (Commercial Electric - North America region) overheated and burnt the plastic housing filling the user's bedroom with acrid smoke. The lamp did not shut down and continued to smoke until power was removed. This lamp was directly over the user's bed - very fortunate that he was there to switch it off before anything worse happened. This failure mode seems to be fairly common, and even a quick check will reveal just how hot the filament ends of the tube become. In normal use, the filaments dissipate at least 3W each and are enclosed in the glass tube - they get very hot indeed. ... The next two photos show what can happen when a CFL is installed into an un-ventilated luminaire. The individual housings have no ventilation holes at the back, so there can be no airflow through the fitting. This ensures that the temperature will increase until the fitting achieves thermal equilibrium, but this won't happen until the internal temperature is in the order of 100°C. ... The results of 23W CFL lamps being installed was quite predictable, although the actual nature of the failure was somewhat unusual. The CFL literally exploded, and vigorously expelled the body of the lamp from the housing, leaving only the Edison screw base. ... The CFL guts were ejected and ended up on the floor, along with multiple glass fragments (and a small quantity of mercury). ... This kind of failure is directly attributable to the lack of public awareness and education, poor instructions and usage information on the package, and numerous sites that state that compact fluorescent and incandescent lamps are directly interchangeable without any precautionary information whatsoever. ..."

/Glenn

Axel Hammerschmidt skrev:

Det er ikke godt. Hvis der er dårlig forbindelse i bunden af fatningen eller andre steder, vil der kunne udvikles varme. Hvis der er dårlig forbindelse kan det også forklare hvorfor pæren nogle gange ikke lyser.

Prøv at stramme pæren, hvis det fjerner problemet med varme, bør du skifte fatningen eller hele lampen.

Nej, det er ikke så usædvanligt, at energisparepærer kan virke on-off i den sidste del af deres levetid, nogle kan endda stå blinke lige som lysstofrør.

Men du kan jo ligge tjekke fatning, så du er 100% sikker på, at energisparepæren har fuld kontakt til den leder, som sidder nede i bunden af fatningen.

--
Med venlig hilsen 
Niels Riis Ebbesen 
www.photo-gallery.dk

Jeg tror diameter på gevind i Philips pæren er lidt for stort

Den er opgivet som ES E27 og diameter skal måle 27 mm. Det passer med en anden pære - Pro Light.

Når jeg måler diameter på Philips pæren med en skydelære får jeg det til

27,2 mm.

(De mærkelige tegn kommer af danske bogstaver i linket)

Så det er nok korrekt, at den ikke kommer helt ned i fatningen.

Tak for al indput.

--
Ikke ham på Facebook.

Har også en Pro Light sparepære, en 15w, der opfører sig mærkeligt. Når den har været tændt et par minutter, går lyset ud, men et lille dab med en finger på lampen, får den til at lyse igen. Det kan gentage sig et par gange, og derefte lyser den konstant. Så min teori er, at der et temperaturområde, hvor den er ustabil, og når den efterhånden bliver varmere, når den et punkt, hvor den er stabil igen?

--
/tp