Sparepærer?

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Hvordan "går" en sparepære?

Der er jo ikke nogen glødetråd. Forleden aften gjorde min kone mig
opmærksom på, at pæren i loftlampen i vores bryggers var gået ud -
lampen lyste ikke da hun tændte for vægkontakten. Det var om natten, så
det måtte vente til næste dag. Hen på natten åbnede jeg døren til
brggerset og opdagede, at nu lyste sparepærelampen igen.

Er der nogen forklaring på det? Er det normalt, at en sparepære
"virker/virker ikke" når den er ved at være udtjent?

Jeg har nu udskiftet den. Det er/var en Pro Light 2700K 13W, 665 lm -
8.000H. Non-dimable. Klasse ukendt. Mat.

Jeg er faktisk nervøs for om det var installationen.

En anden sparepære, en Philips A55 Brilliant 30W, 620 lm - 3000H,
Dimable, Klasse B, klar opførte sig på samme måde i en anden
lampefatning. Den holdt op med at lyse, for så at lyse igen når den
senere blev afprøvet i en anden lampe.

Det mærkelige ved den var, at skruefatningen blev utrolig varm. Man
kunne kun håndterer pæren ved at holde på glasset når man lige havde
slukket den. Glasset er klart og det ser ud til det der skulle udgøre
"glødetråden" og det ligner en Halogen pære med 2 "ben" der er sat ned i
en sokkel. Man kan se glødespiralen og den ser ud til at være intakt?

Den sparepære der nu sidder i loftlampen i bryggerset er en Tero 13W,
665 lm - 10.000H. Klasse A. Fra COOP. Jeg har undladt at skrue
glaskuglen omkring pæren i så jeg kan holde øje med det.

Har jeg grund til at være nervøs?


--  
Ikke ham på Facebook.

Re: Sparepærer?
On 25/05/13 17.01, Axel Hammerschmidt wrote:
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Hej Axel

Her står "alt" om sparepærenes gasudladningsrør:

http://da.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasudladningsr%C3%B8r

Det bedste ville nok være elektrodeløs gasudladningsrør, da der så ikke  
kan komme revner ved rørets elektrodegennemføringer.

-

Svagheden er i dag hovedsageligt de elektroniske HF-forkoblinger - især  
hvis de anvendes ved for høj omgivelsestemperatur. For hver højere 10°C  
ca. halveres levetiden:
http://da.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasudladningsr%C3%B8r_forkobling


Lysdiodemodul levetids eksempel som funktion af chip-temperatur - se  
pdf-side 22 (papir side 21):
hueyjann.tw: HPR20D-19K10xWx(REV D):
http://files.hueyjann.tw/vip/HPR20D-19K10xWx.pdf


Mange sparepæres og lysdiodepæres elektroniske HF-forkoblinger anvender  
for ringe elektrolytkondensatorer, som måske holder 5-10 år med lidt god  
vilje. Hvem gemmer kvitteringen i 5-10 år og ved hvilke pære  
kvitteringen hører til? Eksisterer sælgeren og producenten om 5-10 år?

Det er derfor man som det første ved reparation af elektronikudstyr  
næsten obligatorisk skal teste elektrolytkondensatores ESR og skifte dem  
ud med for høj ESR. Hvis en elektrolytkondensator i en SMPS DC->DC  
konverter først får for høj ESR, kan der også futte andre ting af.

EEVblog #347 - Bad Cap LCD Monitor Repair (monitor fra 2007):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ytw57212X2o


EEVblog #365 - ESR Meter Bad Cap Monitor Repair:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v72%sJ5Infuu0


http://www.eevblog.com/2012/10/06/eevblog-365-esr-meter-bad-cap-monitor-repair/

-

Omkring år 1999 og en del år frem, blev der anvendt for ringe elektrolyt  
til mange apparater, hvilket gjorde at de fejlede efter få måneder til  
år hvis de ikke blev anvendt så tit:
http://www.badcaps.net/
About Badcaps.net:
http://www.badcaps.net/pages.php?vid=9
Citat: "...
The bad capacitor issue really began to blossom into the mainstream as a  
'real world' problem around 1999, and continues on to the present day.  
It now being 2010, I am STILL seeing later model  boards with this  
problem.  The tale behind why the capacitor problem exists in the first  
place is because of a large-scale industrial espionage foul-up.
...
They didn't discover this until it was too late and they had  
manufactured and distributed literally MILLIONS of these flawed  
capacitors.  However, it's been going on way too long to simply blame on  
an industrial espionage boo-boo in my humble opinion, as this problem is  
still extremely common, and hasn't slowed down.  Personally, I think it  
all boils down to shoddy components that are manufactured by shoddy  
component makers.
..."

/Glenn

Re: Sparepærer?
On 25/05/13 17.01, Axel Hammerschmidt wrote:
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Hej Axel

Her er mere:

Kompaktlysstofrør:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compact_fluorescent_lamp#Lifespan

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compact_fluorescent_lamp#End_of_life
Citat: "...
In addition to the wear-out failure modes common to all fluorescent  
lamps, the electronic ballast may fail, since it has a number of  
component parts. Ballast failures may be accompanied by discoloration or  
distortion of the ballast enclosure, odors, or smoke.[69] The lamps are  
internally protected and are meant to fail safely at the end of their  
lives. Industry associations are working toward advising consumers of  
the different failure modes of CFLs compared to incandescent lamps, and  
to develop lamps with inoffensive failure modes.[70] New North American  
technical standards aim to eliminate smoke or excess heat at the end of  
lamp life.[71]
..."

( http://da.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sparep%C3%A6re )

/Glenn


Re: Sparepærer?
On 25/05/13 17.01, Axel Hammerschmidt wrote:
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Hej Axel

Jeg har kun Osram kompaktlysstofrør - og lysdiodepærer (LED) (en Toshiba  
kertelpære E14, Toshiba E27, philips E27 og to halogenpæresorrogater).  
Har også en koldhvid lysdiodepære i det nye køleskab.

PS: Både kompaktlysstofrør og lysdiodelamper er sparepærer.

Købte 3..4 lysdiode halogenpæresorrogater - den ene fejlede grundet løs  
forbindelse.

Osram kompaktlysstofrørene blev valgt for deres højkvalitets varmhvide  
lys. De har endnu ikke fejlet - er mindst 5 år gamle. De var dyre i indkøb.

Alle andre billigere kompaktlysstof på købstidspunktet var koldhvide og  
blev derfor fravalgt. Dog er der af og til blevet købt billige Netto  
koldhvide kompaktlysstofrør - kun én af dem anvendes i varmekælderrummet.

-

Her er mere:

https://www.google.dk/search?q=cfl+typical+failure

January 14, 2009, When CFLs Fail: How to Keep Your Compact Fluorescent  
Glowing:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/improvement/energy-efficient/4299370

sylvania CFL bulb burned out after a few months!! What is up with this  
CFL bulb? It burned out after a few MONTHS in a bathroom fixture where  
the previous regular bulb had lasted several YEARS because we hardly  
ever use that light. The CFLs are expensive, but I thought I was doing  
the right thing to conserve electricity. Now I have this burned-out bulb  
that I can't even throw away because of the mercury. This is nuts!!! I  
won't be buying any more of these:
(Amazon.com product link shortened)

The myth of the CFL [kompaktlysstofrør]:
http://www.greenoptions.com/t/1930/the-myth-of-the-cfl
Citat: "...
6) When we bought the house, we changed about half the bulbs to CFL - 14  
of 35 bulbs.  In the four years since, I have burned out five of them.  
The only incandescent I have burned out is the one I hit with a ladder.  
  That's a 35% failure rate for CFL, and 5% for incandescent.  WAIT!  
35% in four years, versus 5% for over five years...  THE CFL DOES NOT  
LAST LONGER!!
..."

February 28, 2010, Real-world compact fluorescent bulb life:
http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/philg/2010/02/28/real-world-compact-fluorescent-bulb-life/
Citat: "...
Two of the bulbs were manufactured by Philips. One was installed in a  
seldom-visited garage 1.5 years ago and had been on for perhaps 1 hour  
per week. So it lasted 75 hours. I don?t think that it was temperature  
extremes that killed it because it was stamped ?Outdoor?.
...
And who has tried the new LED light bulbs? Are they ready for prime  
time? I am ready to give up on CFL.
...
I have CFL lamps that are in nightly service and seldom burn out ? the  
ones that do are many years old. An exterior light that is on all night  
every night needs to be replaced every ~10,000 hours of operation (and  
although sheltered isn?t exterior-rated), so the temperature extreme  
(-20°F ? +105°F) doesn?t seem to be much of a factor..
...
Clearly older CFLs can be reliable, and clearly more-recent CFLs are  
not. There must be some difference in manufacture. Is there any way to  
distinguish between reliable and too-cheap CFLs?
...
All the other Philips products are low quality products. For CFL, choose  
OSRAM.
..."

About failed CFLs (pics):
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/27197-About-failed-CFLs-%28pics%29

28 Jan 2013, Premature failure of compact fluorescent lights:
http://www.greenbuildingtalk.com/Forums/tabid/53/aff/18/aft/81149/afv/topic/Default.aspx

-

Med diagrammer:

Compact Fluorescent Lamp (CFL):
http://www.pavouk.org/hw/lamp/en_index.html
Citat: "...
Failures

Common failure is broken capacitor C3. it is possible mainly at cheap  
lamps, where are used cheaper components for lower voltage. Whet the  
pipe doesn't lights up on time, there are risk of destroying transistors  
Q1 and Q2 and next resistors R1, R2, R3 and R5. When lamp starts,  
changer is very overloaded and transistors usually doesn't survive  
longer temperature overloading. When the pipe serve out, electronics is  
usually destroyed too. When the pipe is old, there can be overburned one  
of filaments and lamp doesn't lights up anymore. Electronics usually  
survives. Sometimes can be pipe broken due to internal tension and  
temperature difference. Most frequently lamp fails, when power on.
..."

"Normal" Failures:
http://sound.westhost.com/articles/il-cfl-6.htm
Citat: "...
A 33nF 400V Vishay or Philips MKT polyester cap is rated at only 32V AC  
at 30kHz. As the temperature increases, the voltage rating is reduced  
even further. These caps are not safe, and should not be used if their  
voltage rating is exceeded (which it is, in almost all cases). A data  
sheet for these caps is available from any number of sources. Check for  
MKT370 data sheet(s), or click here.
...
In the US, even the Underwriter's Laboratory (UL) claims that smoking  
and overheating was a common occurrence for this type of lamp at end of  
life. It beggars belief that anyone, anywhere, would call this normal.
...
The above lamp (Commercial Electric - North America region) overheated  
and burnt the plastic housing filling the user's bedroom with acrid  
smoke. The lamp did not shut down and continued to smoke until power was  
removed. This lamp was directly over the user's bed - very fortunate  
that he was there to switch it off before anything worse happened. This  
failure mode seems to be fairly common, and even a quick check will  
reveal just how hot the filament ends of the tube become. In normal use,  
the filaments dissipate at least 3W each and are enclosed in the glass  
tube - they get very hot indeed.
...
The next two photos show what can happen when a CFL is installed into an  
un-ventilated luminaire. The individual housings have no ventilation  
holes at the back, so there can be no airflow through the fitting. This  
ensures that the temperature will increase until the fitting achieves  
thermal equilibrium, but this won't happen until the internal  
temperature is in the order of 100°C.
...
The results of 23W CFL lamps being installed was quite predictable,  
although the actual nature of the failure was somewhat unusual. The CFL  
literally exploded, and vigorously expelled the body of the lamp from  
the housing, leaving only the Edison screw base.
...
The CFL guts were ejected and ended up on the floor, along with multiple  
glass fragments (and a small quantity of mercury).
...
This kind of failure is directly attributable to the lack of public  
awareness and education, poor instructions and usage information on the  
package, and numerous sites that state that compact fluorescent and  
incandescent lamps are directly interchangeable without any  
precautionary information whatsoever.
..."

/Glenn


Re: Sparepærer?
Axel Hammerschmidt skrev:

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Det er ikke godt. Hvis der er dårlig forbindelse i bunden af
fatningen eller andre steder, vil der kunne udvikles varme.
Hvis der er dårlig forbindelse kan det også forklare hvorfor
pæren nogle gange ikke lyser.

Prøv at stramme pæren, hvis det fjerner problemet med varme,
bør du skifte fatningen eller hele lampen.



Re: Sparepærer?
On 2013-05-25 15:01:23 +0000, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (Axel Hammerschmidt) said:

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Nej, det er ikke så usædvanligt, at energisparepærer kan virke on-off i  
den sidste del af deres levetid, nogle kan endda stå blinke lige som  
lysstofrør.

Men du kan jo ligge tjekke fatning, så du er 100% sikker på, at  
energisparepæren har fuld kontakt til den leder, som sidder nede i  
bunden af fatningen.
--  
Med venlig hilsen
Niels Riis Ebbesen
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Re: Sparepærer?

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Jeg tror diameter på gevind i Philips pæren er lidt for stort

<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edison_screw

Den er opgivet som ES E27 og diameter skal måle 27 mm. Det passer med en
anden pære - Pro Light.

Når jeg måler diameter på Philips pæren med en skydelære får jeg det til
27,2 mm.

<http://da.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skydel%C3%A6re

(De mærkelige tegn kommer af danske bogstaver i linket)

Så det er nok korrekt, at den ikke kommer helt ned i fatningen.

Tak for al indput.


--  
Ikke ham på Facebook.

Re: Sparepærer?
Axel Hammerschmidt wrote:
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Har også en Pro Light sparepære, en 15w, der opfører sig mærkeligt.
Når den har været tændt et par minutter, går lyset ud, men et lille dab med  
en finger på lampen, får den til at lyse igen. Det kan gentage sig et par  
gange, og derefte lyser den konstant.
Så min teori er, at der et temperaturområde, hvor den er ustabil, og når den  
efterhånden bliver varmere, når den et punkt, hvor den er stabil igen?

--  
/tp  



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