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I would suggest D-subminature connectors - like the DE-9 and DB-25 connectors used on PC serial and parallel ports. There is a DA-15 size midway between the 9 and 25.

You are unlikely to find these (or most) connectors with wires already attached, unless you buy a cable and cut it apart.

You could use the bare D-sub connectors without hoods to reduce the length of the connector.

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Peter Bennett, VE7CEI  
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Reply to
Peter Bennett
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I am building a lighted model ship which is my first electronics project. (e.g. blinking lights). I have been through a number of part catalogs (digikey, mousers, etc.) looking for the following.

  1. Male and female connectors with about 10-12 wires. Would like to buy with lengths of wire attached. Would like a connector no more than about an inch across. Prefer multi-colored wire.

The purpose here is to build the ship parts in components, be able to test the lighting for each component, then connect together when the components are linked.

  1. The electronics and switches will be outside the ship. I need to run a cable similar to those described above through the base. The base has pillars that run up into the bottom of the hull. To make the connection I would like to have a male plug on one of thes pillars and a female socket inside the hull such that when placed upon the base, one gets a connection. I need something with about 10-12 connections that are fairly sturdy. (Only needs to be detached a few times a year for display - not heavy duty - but bent pins would be a pain.)

My inability to locate such parts may be a result of inexperience at reading the part catalogs. I have found ribbon cable with female connectors but I have not seen the male connectors with ribbon to go with them. I haven't seen anything like #2. If anyone have any suggestions for sources I'd be interested in hearing them.

Thanks, I.

Reply to
Ivan Mascovich

You might try Molex at this link:

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Then select wire to wire under their quick links and put in your specifications.

24 gauge wire using and IDT (Insulation Displacement Termination) on 2 rows would be fine...
Reply to
Lord Garth

maybe you could use mini-din plugs (they're round and under half an inch across - as seen on many mice...) you get upto 8 pins per plug, so you may need to use 2 and you'll have to attach the wires yourself. (so you'll need a soldering iron...)

but really the answer depends on how big this model boat is and how much current those lights need, you may do better with connectors designed for automotive use, and soldering may be the most conveneint way to connect wires to those too.

Bye. Jasen

Reply to
Jasen Betts

Jasen Betts wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.compass.net.nz:

I'll take a look. Soldering's no problem. I migh even be able to get away with 7 circuits. I would probably use every one available for effect.

The ship is about 4 1/2 feet long. I can see putting over 100 LEDs in it. I am seeing current drains of 2.5 AMPS at 9 volts. Another problem here is the power supply. 3 AMPs would be safe but i don't see many 9v AC adapters putting out that much current.

Reply to
Ivan Mascovich

Jasen Betts wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.compass.net.nz:

I ended up buy 2x1.5 AMP power converters.

Obviously I would not want to put both in parallel. If someone unpluged one power source while the whole thing were running - POW!.

However, I was wondering if it would be OK to have a common ground, say connect both power supply + terminals together but have the -'s remain separately. The reason being to have the ability to have a single master switch.

Reply to
Ivan Mascovich

They can be had (generally a box with a lead that runs the outlet) or you could split the LEDs into three groups and use three 9v1A plugpacks.

but I don't think the pins on a mini din are rated for that sort of current.

those barrel shaped plugs they use on the plugpacks are good for about 4A i think maybe you could run the DC into the boat through one of them and put your lighting switching electronics inside the and just run control signals to switch relays or transistors etc) through the (or use a 15-pin VGA connector etc...)

on the other hand if you go to a electronics parts store (instead of a toystore like r-s) ypu may find they have a plug that more closely matches your needs. I've found such places listed in the yellow pages unser "electronics parts wholesalers". IME they are happy to sell single parts to walk-in cash customers.

bye

Jasen.

Reply to
Jasen Betts

that would work as , you could also have them both in series (so long as 18V isn't going to be a problem and the power converters are putting out DC)

or you could use a double-pole switch to switch both simultaneously.

--

Bye.
   Jasen
Reply to
Jasen Betts

You might try a place in Morgan Hill California called Alltronics, their website is at

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and if you need further assistance beyond that call them at

(408)778-3868

and tell them Jim sent you. They have lots of new and used electronics items and other things of interest.

Jim

Reply to
James Newlon

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