Solder Station Recommendations?

I used to have an Edsyn solder station that I bought from Radio Shack about 5 or 6 years ago for around $50.00.

It got lost in my cross-country move.

I'd like to get something of similar quality and not spend more than around $50 or $60.

At most I solder maybe 200 connections in a year. I also have a soldering "gun" for heavier soldering, so the one I'm looking for will be for components that typically mount on a PCB.

Anybody know of a solder station on special, or a favorite that fits my needs and roughly my price range?

Thanks.

--- Joe

Reply to
Joe
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I've had soldering irons for 35 years, most of my life, and I've never had anything more than just an iron. I suspect if you are making so few connections that you can count them, there isn't a big need for anything more than a twenty dollar iron. Just make sure the tips can be replaced, and that they are plated (with whatever they are commonly plated with, it's been so long since I've needed to buy a new tip, I forget).

For most of that time, I've bought modular irons, again I forget who makes them since much of that time I've bought them as Radio Shack branded irons. So you can change the heating element, and the tip, for a lot of flexibility that I've never really taken advantage of. But changeable tips are useful if you want to do some really fine work at times.

Toss in a stand of some sort.

At least, that's the way I'm reading your question. "Soldering station" to me implies a fancier iron with some sort of constant temperature control, and that is overkill for occasional use.

Michael

Reply to
Michael Black

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It's called Google. It's a search engine.

nb

Reply to
notbob

I never heard of Howard Electronics, but I think I did come across this solder station via a google search.

Have you had any dealings with Howard Electronics, or know of them by reputation?

Also, I don't know anything about xytronic. Is it a decent brand?

Thanks.

--- Joe

Reply to
Joe

I'm not the guy who posted that, but I have a 379 (not purchased from Howard) and I have also purchased things from Howard Electronics (such as more tips).

The 379 is great. It is generally only limited by the tip. The big B10 chisel tip can easily solder parts onto big thermal pads. I also like the finer chisel tips for general work. The super sharp tips like like B23 and B03 do work when you need really fine work, but their low thermal mass will slow you down. If you really want to do super fine work all day, buy a Metcal.

I got one of their "mini wave" tips (hollow tip that you load with solder to do smt work) but I haven't tried it yet. In a week or so I'll be mounting some QFPs that should test it.

--
Ben Jackson AD7GD

http://www.ben.com/
Reply to
Ben Jackson

It depends on what exactly your "occasional" uses are. If it's just for fixing the doorbell, or the kids' toys - the sort of stuff where a soldering iron just hangs on the garage wall for most of the year, and is a handy tool to have when yout neighbour pops round with two wires that need soldering together - then I agree totally with Michael. Anything of about a 30 or 40 watt rating that feels comfortable in your hand, and has a variety of tips available, should be fine. If, however, it is to be used for work on commercial printed circuit boards, you might want to look at something just a little more sophisticated. The component packaging density is very high now, and many surface mount components are just too small and delicate to be dealt with by a 'heated poker', as is a lot of the actual print. Also bear in mind that the whole world is going over to lead-free solder in production, and this requires an iron with a hotter tip, to work with successfully. For a standard non-controlled iron, that represents a conflict of characteristics ie small tip - hot - stays hot. In this case, you might want to consider a 'basic' temperature controlled iron. Many are really quite cheap now, if you don't need real precision, and day in - day out workshop reliability.

Arfa

Reply to
Arfa Daily

I've not tried it. I have an older Weller, but am considering a Weller WCL100. It's also in your $50 range and has been recommended for SMT soldering, something I'm completely ignorant of.

nb

Reply to
notbob

You might consider an ESD-safe model like the Xytronics 137ESD. A very nice station for about $80. More than your target price, but may be worth the difference.

Chuck

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Reply to
Chuck

WLC100 can't see the cord, but looks like a 2 wire ungrounded. I like Xytronics, been using them for about 20 years. I used two wire irons a great seal. Never blew anything out, in fact, I have soldered powered up units with the ungrounded tips. No recommended, but I have actually forgot to turn equipment off when repairing !!

Love my 80 watt Weller !!!

greg

Reply to
GregS

Check out

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They have a variety of adjustable temperature stations starting under $30.

John

Reply to
John

The "Kalashnikov" of soldering irons is (or was) the original Weller with its simple built-in "mechanical" temperature regulation.

Get a fine point number 7 tip for general use and a broad point number

8 tip for wave-desoldering idc headers.

Robin

Reply to
Robin

"Kalashnikov of soldering stations" - I like that ! It's very true as well. I have had two Weller Magnastat irons in constant daily use for years, and also have a '900 series vacuum desoldering station which uses the same iron. Agreed also on the tip choice that you advocate.

Arfa

Reply to
Arfa Daily

I must be odd in not much liking Weller. I've had Antex for over 40 years and prefer the balance and weight.

--
*Husbands should come with instructions

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
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Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

After using the Weller WRS 3000 iron, all others I have been using forever, seem like holding baseball bats, trying to solder.

greg

Reply to
GregS

My first iron was an Antex in ~1968. It was really beautiful and tiny and it was cheap and lasted for years but only because I looked after it, and generally remembered to switch it off.

You can leave a Weller switched on all week, put it in a bucket of water, light fags with it and mend plastic housings. If the magnet- switch sticks, hit it on the bench.

You *can* destroy it by using it as a crowbar but then it is easily fixed with a new tip. Production managers wise-up to this by restricting new tips to one every couple of months - so the wise contractor keeps his own and swaps it, replacing the original when the job is done.

Robin

Reply to
Robin

But! ...be careful of those cords/connectors. One place I worked had

2 lockers full of dead Wellers. Closer inspection revealed almost everyone one of them had cord/connector failures where the iron plugged into the power unit.

nb

Reply to
notbob

You are right. The cord often wears out first.

But a Weller can even perform it's own abdominal surgery thanks to transformer isolation.

Robin

Reply to
Robin

LOL double !! You could just strike "Robin" off the bottom of that, and put "Arfa" there instead ...

Arfa

Reply to
Arfa Daily

Think I had my first one earlier than that. More expensive than the usual Henley Solon - in those days.

Of course mine isn't used 24/7 - it's a sort of paying hobby. But my first temperature controlled 50 watt low volt Antex is still fine and only on its second element. Must be about 15 years old.

These days I have a home made solder/desolder station which has two Antex hand pieces fitted with the different bits I most use, and two others with the next most common which I plug in if required. I made the mistake of using a Pace SX80 as the desolder tool and the element on that has a short

- and expensive - life. Wish I could find an alternative.

But like all tools it comes down to personal preferences.

--
*A chicken crossing the road is poultry in motion.*

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
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Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I've always used mostly Wellers, because that's what the company bought. :-) At home on my own bench, I use the "princess" from RS or one of a couple of clunky irons from the hardware store or something.

Cheers! Rich

Reply to
Rich Grise

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