Slow down Dremel

I've got an old single speed Dremel that scares everybody in the house because it's too noisy. Too cold and dark to work in the garage. Will an inexpensive lamp dimmer work OK, or would a Powerstat autotransformer be much better? I would prefer to use the smaller and cheaper dimmer but assume that the dimmer would clip the AC sinewave, Powerstat would not.

Reply to
Stumpy
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The speed controls meant for ceiling fans work OK.

Reply to
Tom Biasi

The dimmer will, but is not fine art. There are dimmers available which have a motor current sensing and they wiill keep the motor at constant speed under load. But a normal dimmer is still better than nothing.

w.

Reply to
Helmut Wabnig

Hi Stumpy, I don't know if a dimmer will work or not, it would be the cheaper route. I have a Staco Energy Type 291 variable transformer.

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It is NOS, very cute, about 2-1/2" x 2-1/2". I got it from a company that went out of business. If you are interested my email is good. Price $85 includes shipping. Mikek

Reply to
amdx

I looked back in Google Groups and found that people have salvaged sewing machine pedals to slow it down and change the speed "hands free". That seems like a very good idea. Also found a current product that does the same thing.

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I'll try it. Craigslist doesn't have any sewing machine pedals.

Reply to
Stumpy

Amazon had a reviewer list the specs on the Moto Tool like this: ------------- "The specifications on the bottom of the control are:

110 - 120 V 60 Hz 10A China The control in the pedal mechanism is a ceramic block with dozens of graphite discs in it, when you step on the pedal it progressively lowers resistance contact. I guess the ceramic block is to handle and to dissipate the heat generated. The female cord is short, less than two feet. The male end is 5 or 6 feet. It stopped working after one time, but after taking it apart (for $10 I wasn't going to return it), got it to work again. If you think of it as a very very light duty or disposable control, then you have a reason to risk buying it for $10. " ----------------

So its not very sophisticated, but the price is right. $15 not $10 is still OK.

Reply to
Stumpy

And it be dangerous if teeth or blades were designed for a certain RPM.

Reply to
Tom Biasi

I have a light dimmer in a box with an outlet for one of my soldering irons. And at times I've used the dimmer with my "rotary tool". There's a limit on how much you can reduce it, if I recall properly.

One thing to keep in mind. SOme of the functions really depend on a high speed, so it's not just there to look good. Slow it down too much, and not only will the rotary tool not turn as well, but the cutting may not work as well either.

Michael

Reply to
Michael Black

Should be OK.

Reply to
Tom Biasi

Just drilling holes in leather. Nothing critical.

Reply to
Stumpy

Punches make for neater holes. ...Jim Thompson

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| James E.Thompson                                 |    mens     | 
| Analog Innovations                               |     et      | 
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Reply to
Jim Thompson

I think that was included. INitially it seems safer at a slower speed, but that's not the case. Cut-off wheels are wonderful, and can break quite easily, but they need the speed to do the work easily.

Michael

Reply to
Michael Black

Then why use the Dremel tool? A drill is as good as anything for the purpose of drilling. If these are tiny holes, well I just used my drill in a drill press adapter. But yes, punches are probably the best method, or just an awl.

Michael

Reply to
Michael Black

I need to make very small holes. A punch is too big. My drill chucks are too big. Even had to get a mini chuck for the Dremel. I've broken 2 stitching awls so far. A Jensen icepick stretched the leather around the hole. I just want to try a Dremel at lower speed. 3 good needles from Tandy, or 3 crappy sets from Harbor Freight cost the same as the pedal.

Reply to
Stumpy

Rip a laser out from a blue ray DVD and use that :)

Jamie

Reply to
Maynard A. Philbrook Jr.

Heh, now that's too small.

Reply to
Stumpy

"Helmut Wabnig"

** Nope, back emf sensing that does that trick.

Usually by means of half wave drive via an SCR.

.... Phil

Reply to
Phil Allison

I use my Dremel for leather sometimes. If your leather is not too thick relative to the diameter of the hole, you might want to try ball-tip carbide dental burs. (I use these for epoxy glass circuit boards, because unlike straight drills they never break and never wear out.)

The carbide burr is attached to a steel shank that tapers up to whatever standard collet size you are using. Some designs taper rather gently, so you can make a deeper hole before contacting the shank. Since the carbide is only at the tip, there is no problem of breakage like a carbide drill. (Once I managed to knock the tool to the floor, bit-side down, and the shank bent. That's the only damaged bit in 30 years.)

One big advantage of a drill (of any sort) over a punch is that you only need one-sided access to the piece... important if you are working on something like a boot.

Best regards,

Bob Masta DAQARTA v7.40 Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis

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Scope, Spectrum, Spectrogram, Sound Level Meter Frequency Counter, Pitch Track, Pitch-to-MIDI FREE Signal Generator, DaqMusic generator Science with your sound card!

Reply to
Bob Masta

Thanks for that, I'll look into a burr later because I've already got some small drill bits.

Those bent shanks don't work so good at ~3,000 RPM.

Reply to
Stumpy

Thirty tears ago, I worked at an electric motor rebuild shop. We had something like a dremel on steroids. I was grinding on something and somehow the bit bent about 90*, it was all I could do to get the thing shutdown before getting injured. yow! Mikek

Reply to
amdx

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