Staining the wine-glass rack came out looking so nice SWMBO asked if I could stain a kitchen implement holder that's bamboo (*)
(*) Apparently by stacking layers of bamboo, then turning in a lathe.
It has some kind of clear-coat... shellac/polyurethane/who-knows ?
Any woodworking types lurking here that would know how I could best remove the clear-coat?
Thanks! ...Jim Thompson
-- | James E.Thompson | mens | | Analog Innovations | et | | Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus | | San Tan Valley, AZ 85142 Skype: Contacts Only | | | Voice:(480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat | | E-mail Icon at
formatting link
| 1962 | I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| San Tan Valley, AZ 85142 Skype: Contacts Only | |
| Voice:(480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |
I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
One time I went the full route: Stripeze all over the finish, didn't work? more Stripeze may be a bad batch of stripper? no, seems to have removed everything where I'm working, but doesn't want to touch the original finish!, then rinse and rinse, try to get the cloudy muck off, then sand and sand and why bother, why not just sand the finish off to begin with and save money and mess? Then the stain still went on badly, looked a bit amateurish when done. Seems that old finish still sealed some areas just like soaked in some places, not others. So, the next time, I left the enameled/baked on whatever finish ON the wood and stained over it with a stain to darken to the desired range. Left all the wood grain intact and had the advantage of very little prep work. That single stain coating OVER the original finish? looked great!
Uh, one more thing take advantage of working on a HORIZONTAL surface, it's worth it to lay it down and let everything 'puddle' and flatten, not streak and run down.
A tip on final finish if you sand, vacuum thoroughly then wipe with TAC rag [there must be some kind of 'wetting' chemical in there that makes finishes just flow on. Then take the clear finish, pour into clean discardable container, take new brush, dip [do NOT wipe brush, instead let drip or shake off excess NEVER wipe on the container's edge] then flow on the finish ONCE! You'll see little 'dimples' and flaws in the finish, don't panic. Allow 24 hours and then gently sand using 300 to 400 grain wet n dry sandpaper and use a wetting agent to pick up stuff [Jet-Dri in distilled water] on a CHEAP paper towel, or lintless cloth [you have access to those Class 10 clean rooms, right?] Why cheap paper towel? No plastics No chemical additives. Then get another new brush and another new container and flow on aother coat. This time you'll see almost NO dimples and few flaws. Now it gets arbitrary. Repeat or decide enough. If enough, wet n dry one more time but this time use the driest brush possible to just 'wet' the hazy sanding streaks. When you're done, the finish will look like it was sprayed on at the factory. Uniform, flat, and even when the light catches it it still looks flat.
Hey, give me a subject and I can talk an hour, ...and often have.
If you're determined to remove the top coat: Alcohol is the solvent for shellac. Laq thinner is the solvent for lacquer. Poly requires stripping with paint remover. However, you can also just apply the stain on top of the existing top coat. Sand first using 320 grit paper. Vacuum or blow it clean of any dust. Apply stain. Let dry. Apply new top coat. Art
ElectronDepot website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.