OT: Wall Stud Locating

See...

I had been using the Magcraft magnets to locate wall studs, but they're nasty to get apart and hard to hold onto.

Then I appropriated some magnetic "push pins" from my wife's bulletin board.

They're easy to handle... and see. ...Jim Thompson

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| James E.Thompson                                 |    mens     | 
| Analog Innovations                               |     et      | 
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Reply to
Jim Thompson
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Clue me in, how does one use a push pin, magnetic or not, to locate wall studs (i take it, the nails in the studs to be more eXplicit)?

Reply to
Robert Baer

I think these are immitation push pins with a magnet instead of a spike.

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umop apisdn
Reply to
Jasen Betts

Put the magnet against the wall and slide it around until it sticks to a nail or screw. Rinse and repeat above and below to get more confidence where the stud center is, assuming whoever put in the fasteners was hitting the center on average.

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has nice large and small magnetic pushpins; naturally ymmv but I'm a satisfied customer. I used the large ones as a stocking stuffer a few Christmases ago, and everyone loved them so I need to get some more for next time.

Regards, Carl Ijames carl.ijames aat deletethis veriz> See...

Clue me in, how does one use a push pin, magnetic or not, to locate wall studs (i take it, the nails in the studs to be more eXplicit)?

Reply to
Carl Ijames

I've found the usual stud locator to be a bit vague on exact location, but I use it first to generalize the location, then "fish" with the magnetic map pins to find nails. Then I'm sure that a lag screw will find some "meat" to support the load (I'm hanging heavy mirrors). ...Jim Thompson

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| James E.Thompson                                 |    mens     | 
| Analog Innovations                               |     et      | 
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Reply to
Jim Thompson

I've never had a problem using a "capacitive" (electronic) sensor. The one that I am currently using has two different sensitivities and an LED bar graph indicator.

Use a knuckle to get a general idea as to location of *a* stud. Use knowledge of common building practices to determine likely locations of *others* wrt this one. Sweep along the wall to find the edge of the stud or furring strip (the bar graph responds very noticeably *at* the edge of the stud) then continue for ~2 inches (width of most US timber is ~1.5") to catch the other edge. Split the distance for the center of the stud.

Reply to
Don Y

Look at the photo more carefully..

Reply to
Robert Baer

Jasen is correct. They're for a metal-based bulletin board. My wife uses them for hanging up recipes,etc, in the pantry. ...Jim Thompson

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| James E.Thompson                                 |    mens     | 
| Analog Innovations                               |     et      | 
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Reply to
Jim Thompson

I often use a sewing needle held with vise grips or a pin with ball on top to push through drywall. I get a ballpark position, by tapping on the wall, then push the pin through if I hit wood, I move 1/2" and try again. This way zero in and find both edges and mark them. Depends on what I'm doing, I may start near the floor and use level to move up the wall. Mikek Then I recheck in case the stud is not straight.

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Reply to
amdx

You can also note where outlets and switches are mounted. They usually are nailed to a stud.

tm

Reply to
Tom Miller

I've been screwed by that assumption! Found two boxes mounted *between* studs (i.e., not adjoining on either side -- or top/bottom!) I've actually repeated the practice in several places, here, as it makes it a lot easier to mount boxes in some locations!

Reply to
Don Y

So called "old-work" boxes need clearance for the "ears" to fold out all the way.

I made a template that rests on the top of the baseboards so I can saw out an exact size and location hole pattern. ...Jim Thompson

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| James E.Thompson                                 |    mens     | 
| Analog Innovations                               |     et      | 
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Reply to
Jim Thompson

No old-works boxes, here -- even including the boxes I've added since the house was built! :>

In this case, box wanted to be in the middle of the wall (section) for aesthetics. As no stud in *that* place, had to mount to a horizontal member introduced just to support the box.

I'e since learned to use such an approach fastening the *back* of the box to the *face* of a 2x4 (mounted "on edge"). A lot easier than trying to mount the Jbox to a stud on it's *side*.

I've used this approach to mount all boxes for the "control panels", here. Next week, another for the wireless phone. *Not* having a stud on ANY side of the box allows you to float a piece of plywood around the box *behind* the drywall to which you can now fasten a piece of "substantial" kit (without having to anchor it directly to the drywall for support as the box *and* the plywood can now be supported "from behind").

Length of a claw hammer determines the location of the bottom edge of the Jbox up off the floor. No need to find "that *^(&@#$ template". Esp for new works where there's no wallboard to cut (yet!). I.e., stand up hammer, rest box on top of hammer. Hold in place while removing hammer to drive nails through box into studs.

Adding a box after the fact, just take a (metal) box, orient it "backwards" (opening facing wall) and tap back of it with a hammer to mark the wallboard. Cut opening with a dryhole saw. Lay box in and slip madison clip alongside. (newer designs for the boxes don't require the clip, of course)

Round boxes are easier -- buy a cutter (like a compass) and just make sure you mark the center of the hole correctly. Especially helpful for round boxes in ceilings, down lights, etc.

Reply to
Don Y

I've seen drywall anchors rated for upto 20Kg shear loads. use several per.

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umop apisdn
Reply to
Jasen Betts

when I zoomed all I got was a blur.

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umop apisdn
Reply to
Jasen Betts

I think there may be the case of apples and peauts.

1) Push-pins, magnetic or not, can be pushed into drywall. Standard stud locators can be used to do general finding; the pins for marking. Magnetic pins, unless long and pivoted like a compass, would be useless for finding. 2) Pins of any type, unless propelled at high velocity, will not punch thru iron or steel ("metal-based"). The magnetic base would act as a shield and nullify any possibility of finding the studs, even with X-ray backscatter.
Reply to
Robert Baer

Duh! These are plastic creatures that look like a push pin, but have no pin, just a flat bottom with a disk magnet attached. They "find" studs just ducky.

What _are_ you smoking/drinking/injecting? You are certainly out to lunch. ...Jim Thompson

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| James E.Thompson                                 |    mens     | 
| Analog Innovations                               |     et      | 
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Reply to
Jim Thompson

You do not cotton to X-ray backscatter? Very nice to find beams behind walls. Make one and find out..

Reply to
Robert Baer

tapping carefully and listening works well for me

Reply to
hallerb

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