OT: Paint Question

What should I prime a metal bracket with before applying acrylic house paint? ...Jim Thompson

-- | James E.Thompson | mens | | Analog Innovations | et | | Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus | | San Tan Valley, AZ 85142 Skype: skypeanalog | | | Voice:(480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat | | E-mail Icon at

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| 1962 | I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

Reply to
Jim Thompson
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What sort of metal?

Reply to
krw

What type of metal? Indoor or outdoor? General advice found with Google: etc...

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558
Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

Just a galvanized L-bracket holding a bookcase (anti-tip), but it shows enough to annoy me, so I want to paint it the wall color. ...Jim Thompson

--
| James E.Thompson                                 |    mens     | 
| Analog Innovations                               |     et      | 
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems  |    manus    | 
| San Tan Valley, AZ 85142     Skype: skypeanalog  |             | 
| Voice:(480)460-2350  Fax: Available upon request |  Brass Rat  | 
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com |    1962     | 
              
I love to cook with wine.     Sometimes I even put it in the food.
Reply to
Jim Thompson

Ok. Electrogalvanized bracket. No oil anywhere in the cleaner, primer, or paint. Everything should be be water based. Acrylic latex paint should be water based, but double check that it's NOT some oil based concoction in disguise.

Do NOT use spray paint or primer:

paints will react with the zinc during any stage of the galvanized layer, in a process called saponification. The alkyd-base interacts with the zinc to form a soap at the interface. This will result in poor paint adhesion and paint peeling.

Clean off any oil or protective coating from the L-bracket. Brush on corrosion-resistant acrylic latex primer. Let dry. Brush with water based paint. Done.

More: etc...

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558
Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

I dug a bit deeper into the above article. They suggest Krylon H20

2614 spray primer. Seems to be discontinued and difficult to find: Try your local paint store and see if they have a private stash.
--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558
Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

If so, there's probably a superior alternative available

or ask them to recommend a product.

galv is chemically similar to the coating used on automotive body panels auto primer would probably work fine.

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umop apisdn
Reply to
Jasen Betts

on 4/5/2015, Jim Thompson supposed :

Use JASCO Prep & Prime $6.89 / Qt at Lowe's

I used it on a galvanized greenhouse frame and after 15 years not one sign of rust!

Note that I used a good quality primer over that then a gloss finish coat.

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Reply to
OldGuy

He lives in Arizona. They have no idea what rust is.

Reply to
Tom Miller

Around here we call it passivation ;-) ...Jim Thompson

--
| James E.Thompson                                 |    mens     | 
| Analog Innovations                               |     et      | 
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems  |    manus    | 
| San Tan Valley, AZ 85142     Skype: skypeanalog  |             | 
| Voice:(480)460-2350  Fax: Available upon request |  Brass Rat  | 
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com |    1962     | 
              
I love to cook with wine.     Sometimes I even put it in the food.
Reply to
Jim Thompson

Don't be too sure. Our brand new 'tiny' $2400 Kitchenaid fridge keeps accumulating a haze of red rust on it!! So much for Stainless Steel, what a crock! Have to wipe it off about every 3-4 days. Ended up using distilled water and 'cheap' paper towels [to avoid added chemicals in the paper] seems to work the best.

All the other SS appliance fronts, from GE, don't have that problem. Sink slightly.

Reply to
RobertMacy

Surprised you didn't post in the alt.home.repair group. Nestork might jump in - extremely knowledgeable with the chemistry.

Reply to
RobertMacy

Greetings Robert, What you need to do is passivate the stainless. It sounds like your fridge was contaminated with iron particles. Assuming your fridge has a brushed surface, this can happen when the surface is "brushed", so the rusting may have been happening since your fridge was new . The surface can also have been damaged from certain chemical exposure. Anyway, the chromium oxide surface that normally protects stainless steel from corrosion is broken on your fridge. So free iron is available to combine with oxygen. This iron must be removed and passivation is how to do it in your case. There are available citric acid based passivating solutions that are pretty user friendly. See this link:

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And this one:
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There is a good chance this stuff will work for you. I am just a satisfied user, no connection to the maker or seller. Eric P.S. On the other hand you might just have some crappy stainless steel and no amount of passivating will help.

Reply to
etpm

This article hints that you might be over-cleaning the fridge or perhaps own a fridge made from a batch of "economized" stainless:

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558
Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

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