I am trying to power up my circuit using the above mentioned battery and the circuit. My load works fine. It requires 300mA at +5V. The problem comes when I tried to charge up the battery with the charger. The charger tries to charge the battery and than gives the error after half an hour of charging.
I replace the Load with the charger. So, in the schematic the point A is connected to positive of the charger and Ground is connected the charger's ground.
(1) Use a single 5V regulator, eg. LM7805,, well thermally sinked. A 7805 will stand up to 35V on its input. Total dissipation will be less, since each separate regulator draws about 8 milliamps, internally, just to stay in business, so you save 16 milliamps. You'll have (300+8) milliamps times (12-5) volts = a tad over 2 watts in the 7805, to a first approximation, which you need to get out with an adequate heatsink.
(2) Connect the charger direct to the battery, not the load end. Lose the diodes.
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Will the charger not affect the 7805 in any way, if I connect it to the output of the 7805? The diode D1 is protecting the output of the 7805 from charger. Am I right?
If I do not use the D2 than the output of the 7805 will be connected to +12 V out put of the battery. And the load will get 12 V instead of 5 volts.
I can only use one ( same) connector to provide power to the load and for getting the battery charged via battery charger.
The thing is that the there is only only connector for the output and battery charging. The same connector goes to batter charger's output and into the load. jess
This looks like a fairly smart charger. It's probably sensing that the charge current is not dropping off as it should )because you have a parallel current path). Often these chargers will charge with a constant current up until some threshold, then switch to constant voltage to finish off the charge. Drawing significant current in parallel with the battery can cause problems.
One at a time or is the charger connected to the battery at the same time as the load is?
Remove the load completely and than connect the charger. charge the battery . Remove the battery and than connect the load. i am not conncting the charger and the battery at the same time in parallel.
Remove the battery and than connect the load. i am not conncting the charger and the battery at the same time in parallel.
Ok, you can safely eliminate your load as the problem. Have you measured the terminal voltage on the battery? If your battery has a shorted cell or is seriously discharged (don't do that), the charger may refuse to charge it.
If this is the case, you may need to give it a jump-start with a power supply. Set a power supply to an open-circuit voltage of ~14V, current limited to .25A or maybe .5A.
(1) Use a single 5V regulator, eg. LM7805,, well thermally sinked. A 7805 will stand up to 35V on its input. Total dissipation will be less, since each separate regulator draws about 8 milliamps, internally, just to stay in business, so you save 16 milliamps. You'll have (300+8) milliamps times (12-5) volts = a tad over 2 watts in the 7805, to a first approximation, which you need to get out with an adequate heatsink.
(2) Connect the charger direct to the battery, not the load end. Lose the diodes.
***I'd delete the forward conducting diode (D1), if there was any good reason to use all 3 regulators; I'd consider the effect of any reservoir/smoothing/decoupling caps on the output of one to the input of the next, and decide whether each regulator needed its own individual reverse protection diode - the regulators do of course need decoupling caps as close to the pins as possible to prevent oscillation. Although I'd probably do as suggested and let a single 5V reg carry the load with the help of a "tub thumping" great heatsink.
D2 interferes with the chargers ability to monitor the battery.
The picture of the battery charger shows a 5.5mm power plug. The sockets for this plug normally have a switch built in. Use that switch for isolation rather than D2 and the problems should go away.
Also (and as PA said) the output voltage of the regulator will be low. Put a 1n400x in series with the Gnd pin to jack up the output voltage by the 'missing' .7 volt. You can dump all the extra regulators and just use a
7805 with a small heatsink of about 15 degC/watt - use thermal paste. Also remember the caps for stability.
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The Load and the battery has following female connector on it
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The battery has the following male connector on it
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This connector has two different connector on each end. I cut the connector on one end and solder it to the output of the 7805 ( positive terminal) and the ground of the battery.
I do not know whether this connector has an internal switch or not ...
Many (most) integrated regulators don't like being backdriven.
Heatsinking requirements would be the same with one regulator, as with three, just the distribution would be different. Apart from having the thermal resistance of a single TO-220 tab, instead of distributed over three. The same amount of power has to be dissipated.
Dissipation should be slightly less, by losing the quiescent of two regulators.
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"For a successful technology, reality must take precedence
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