HELP: Issue with Powering a Door bell on a Relay

Hello,

So I have put together the following circuit found in the link and everythi ng with the regular part of the circuit namely, lights, switches, lock-out function all work.

I have wired up a common house-hold door bell which comes with it's own tra nsformer to step down the voltage. And, I'm supplying power via it's own AC cord wired within a project both separate from the Game Show circuit. I'm using the small relay circuit to act as the door bell button.

Problem is it seems as though the capacitor maybe too large and is not disc harging fast enough.

What I'm seeing after I press one of the game show switches is the correspo nding light coming on, but with a slight delay the bell rings. However I've noticed a hum coming from the bell unit when powered and connected to the relay circuit. It appears that piece that hits the bell plate is holding an d then heating up when plugged in for a bit of time.

Can going from a 1000 uF capacitor to perhaps a 500 or 250uF help solve the delay, the sticking of the bell striker? Any help would be greatly appreci ated, I'm sooo close to finishing and this is the only detail holding me up .

Thanks!

Ariel

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Reply to
Ariel Suero
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with the regular part of the circuit namely, lights, switches, lock-out function all work.

transformer to step down the voltage. And, I'm supplying power via it's own AC cord wired within a project both separate from the Game Show circuit. I'm using the small relay circuit to act as the door bell button.

discharging fast enough.

corresponding light coming on, but with a slight delay the bell rings. However I've noticed a hum coming from the bell unit when powered and connected to the relay circuit. It appears that piece that hits the bell plate is holding and then heating up when plugged in for a bit of time.

delay, the sticking of the bell striker? Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm sooo close to finishing and this is the only detail holding me up.

Your circuit is working as designed. The doorbell striker will move to the "bing" side when a contestant's bulb lights, and will stay there until the reset switch is pressed. The 1000 uF cap and 51 ohm resistor will hold it there for about one more second _after_ the reset switch is pressed. Reducing the value of the cap will shorten that one second interval, but will have no effect on the time between the bulb lighting and the reset switch interval. If a contestant's bulb lights and no one presses the reset switch, the doorbell striker will remain on the "bing" side forever - or until something burns out or power is removed.

If you want continuous ringing as long as a bulb is lit, change to a different type bell, like this: >

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Ed

Reply to
ehsjr

with the regular part of the circuit namely, lights, switches, lock-out function all work.

transformer to step down the voltage. And, I'm supplying power via it's own AC cord wired within a project both separate from the Game Show circuit. I'm using the small relay circuit to act as the door bell button.

discharging fast enough.

corresponding light coming on, but with a slight delay the bell rings. However I've noticed a hum coming from the bell unit when powered and connected to the relay circuit. It appears that piece that hits the bell plate is holding and then heating up when plugged in for a bit of time.

delay, the sticking of the bell striker? Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm sooo close to finishing and this is the only detail holding me up.

I suggest that you check your wiring of the relay. There should be no delay between when you press the button until the relay energizes (and the buzzer sounds). The fact that you say that you have a delay implies that something is not wired correctly.

If you are using the relay described in the circuit diagram with a 500 ohm coil then the relay should energize for about 0.5 to 1 second and then drop out. There should be no delay. The 1000 uf capacitor and the resistance of the coil determine how long the relay will stay energized. Once again your description implies that the relay is staying energized until the reset is pushed. This should not happen if your circuit is wired as shown.

You can verify the operation of the relay by placing your voltmeter across its contacts. When the relay is not energized, you should see whatever voltage the your buzzer supplies. When the relay energizes and the contacts close, the voltage should drop to zero. (Or you can disconnect the buzzer and use your voltmeter's resistance setting to check resistance of the contacts. With the relay not energized you should seen infinite resistance. With the relay energized you should read near zero.)

A side note: If you are using higher wattage light bulbs then the 25 watt bulbs shown in the diagram, then some adjustments need to be made in the component values. Without the component value adjustments, you might get the effects described.

Dan

Reply to
Dan Coby

ything with the regular part of the circuit namely, lights, switches, lock- out function all work.

transformer to step down the voltage. And, I'm supplying power via it's ow n AC cord wired within a project both separate from the Game Show circuit. I'm using the small relay circuit to act as the door bell button.

discharging fast enough.

esponding light coming on, but with a slight delay the bell rings. However I've noticed a hum coming from the bell unit when powered and connected to the relay circuit. It appears that piece that hits the bell plate is holdin g and then heating up when plugged in for a bit of time.

the delay, the sticking of the bell striker? Any help would be greatly app reciated, I'm sooo close to finishing and this is the only detail holding m e up.

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Hello Dan, I will check the wiring of the relay today. I'm presently using

25 Watt colored incandescent bulbs I purchased from home depot and have the m attached via a basic bulb socket.
Reply to
Ariel Suero

Hello,

Thanks to all who offered their valuable advice and knowledge. The project is complete and working great!!! I found that the door bell was wired to th e NC instead of NO, I misinterpreted the layout on the back of the baggie. Also, I found that there was a bad diode in relay portion of the circuit. R eplaced the diode, and connected to the NO, no need to step down the size o f the capacitor.

Thanks Again!!

Ariel

Reply to
Ariel Suero

with the regular part of the circuit namely, lights, switches, lock-out function all work.

transformer to step down the voltage. And, I'm supplying power via it's own AC cord wired within a project both separate from the Game Show circuit. I'm using the small relay circuit to act as the door bell button.

discharging fast enough.

corresponding light coming on, but with a slight delay the bell rings. However I've noticed a hum coming from the bell unit when powered and connected to the relay circuit. It appears that piece that hits the bell plate is holding and then heating up when plugged in for a bit of time.

delay, the sticking of the bell striker? Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm sooo close to finishing and this is the only detail holding me up.

I can't help felling that some of us are being quizzed.

Why did you put a cap in series to the relay coil? I mean, I suppose you can do that but you're going to get AC to the relay coil and I'd wager that it's a DC coil relay.

Jamie

Reply to
Jamie

with the regular part of the circuit namely, lights, switches, lock-out function all work.

transformer to step down the voltage. And, I'm supplying power via it's own AC cord wired within a project both separate from the Game Show circuit. I'm using the small relay circuit to act as the door bell button.

discharging fast enough.

corresponding light coming on, but with a slight delay the bell rings. However I've noticed a hum coming from the bell unit when powered and connected to the relay circuit. It appears that piece that hits the bell plate is holding and then heating up when plugged in for a bit of time.

delay, the sticking of the bell striker? Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm sooo close to finishing and this is the only detail holding me up.

And the difference is?

(But it's NOT AC that is applied. Did you miss that block labeled "rectifier"?) ...Jim Thompson

--
| James E.Thompson                                 |    mens     | 
| Analog Innovations                               |     et      | 
 Click to see the full signature
Reply to
Jim Thompson

with the regular part of the circuit namely, lights, switches, lock-out function all work.

transformer to step down the voltage. And, I'm supplying power via it's own AC cord wired within a project both separate from the Game Show circuit. I'm using the small relay circuit to act as the door bell button.

discharging fast enough.

corresponding light coming on, but with a slight delay the bell rings. However I've noticed a hum coming from the bell unit when powered and connected to the relay circuit. It appears that piece that hits the bell plate is holding and then heating up when plugged in for a bit of time.

delay, the sticking of the bell striker? Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm sooo close to finishing and this is the only detail holding me up.

No, I didn't miss the rectifier, but obviously you missed something..

The 100 Uf cap that is being used on the HV side of the scr's isn't enough to supply a clean DC to cathode side where the

1000uf cap is being used to pass the momentary pulse to the relay.

Instead, you'll most likely get a little noise there after the initial pulse. Any of the 25 watt lamps are on at the same time which on serves to add to the over over burden 100uf.

Now maybe if the DC coil current requirements were a little higher to prevent it from partial latching after initial pulse, it could work.

You see, I look at circuits like that, I can see holes a mile away..

Have a good day..

Jamie

Reply to
Jamie

everything with the regular part of the circuit namely, lights, switches, lock-out function all work.

transformer to step down the voltage. And, I'm supplying power via it's own AC cord wired within a project both separate from the Game Show circuit. I'm using the small relay circuit to act as the door bell button.

discharging fast enough.

corresponding light coming on, but with a slight delay the bell rings. However I've noticed a hum coming from the bell unit when powered and connected to the relay circuit. It appears that piece that hits the bell plate is holding and then heating up when plugged in for a bit of time.

delay, the sticking of the bell striker? Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm sooo close to finishing and this is the only detail holding me up.

It's a crock circuit... what else can you say ?:-) ...Jim Thompson

--
| James E.Thompson                                 |    mens     | 
| Analog Innovations                               |     et      | 
 Click to see the full signature
Reply to
Jim Thompson

Disregard my post above - I had the wrong circuit in mind.

Ed

Reply to
ehsjr

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