First finally dropped the $$ on the big screen and as I live in TX, which typically has huge thunderstorms this time of year, when at home I unplug everything I value. I want to protect the TV with one of the power strips that advertise protection against this type of thing? Any opinions on what works and what is pure marketing BS, I do realize a direct strike means pretty much everything is done with, as what happened to a neighbor last year!
Thanks!
Yup. (In the future, have your Subject line describe your problem.)
The varistor-based devices can improve your odds but the arithmetic is just overwhelming--even for a near-miss.
The closer the strike, the greater the damage. The best protection is to NOT have the highest objects in the skyline on YOUR property. You reminded me of the old joke
The best information on surge protection I have seen is at:
- "How to protect your house and its contents from lightning: IEEE guide for surge protection of equipment connected to AC power and communication circuits" published by the IEEE in 2005. And also:
- "NIST recommended practice guide: Surges Happen!: how to protect the appliances in your home" published by the US National Institute of Standards and Technology in 2001
The IEEE guide is aimed at those with some technical background. The NIST guide is aimed at the unwashed masses.
If you use a plug-in suppressor, get a major brand with high values.
And note that all interconnected equipment must to be connected to the same plug-in suppressor, or interconnecting wires need to go through the suppressor. External connections, like cable, also must go through the suppressor. Connecting all wiring through the suppressor prevents damaging voltages between power and signal wires. These multiport suppressors are described in both guides.
A plug-in suppressor works primarily by clamping the voltage between all wires (power and signal) to the common ground at the suppressor. The voltage between the wires going to the TV is safe for the TV.
A service panel suppressor is a good idea. If there is none, a very strong surge will cause arc-over in the panel at about 6000V which dumps most of the surge energy to earth. If you have a plug-in suppressor, the impedance of the branch circuit to surges (which are basically high frequency) greatly limits the current, and thus energy, that can reach the suppressor.
Direct strikes to a house require lightning rods for protection. But direct strikes are really uncommon unless you really exposed.
-- bud--
t this type of thing? Any opinions on
Get the long list of numeric specs for that "it provides complete protection" power strip. It will list each type of surge AND protection from each type of surge.
Take a $3 power strip. Add some $0.10 parts. Sell that protector for $25 or $150. Claim to protect from some ambiguous thing called a surge. Provide no numbers that make protection claims. The naive will use word association instead of science; 'surge protector' sounds like 'surge protection'. The power strip protector never does make those protection claims. Show me the numbers.
What must a power strip protector do to provide surge protection? It will stop what three miles of sky could not stop? That silly little part will absorb the entire surge energy? Of course not.
Obviously your telco must disconnect during thunderstorms to protect their $multi-million computer. That computer connected to overhead wires all over town never disconnects? Correct. They may suffer 100 surges during every thunderstorm - and no damage. They do this by not using plug-in protectors.
Protection is by doing what Ben Franklin did in 1752. Lightning seeks earth ground. Lightning used conductive wooden church steeples to obtain earth. Effective protection diverted lightning to earth using something more conductive. Same protection applies to your telco and to your big screen TV.
Lightning strikes wires out on the street. What is a good path to earth? Incoming on your AC mains, through your TV, and out to earth. Effective protection earths before lightning can enter your building. Effective protection means everything in your building is protected. Effective protector is what your telco does - put the protector where lightning enters the building AND make that earthing connection short (ie less than 10 feet).
Again, what does lightning seek? What provides protection? Where lightning energy dissipated harmlessly? Inside a power strip protector? Of course not. Therefore more responsible companies make a 'whole house' protector - ie Cutler-Hammer, Leviton, Intermatic, Square D, Kieson, Siemens, GE ... Not on that list is APC, Tripplite, Belkin, or Monster Cable.
Critical to surge protection is a single point earth ground AND a short ('less than 10 foot) connection to earth. Your telco does that (and does not use power strip protectors). Any facility does earthed protectors when lightning damage is not acceptable. In your case, the effective (properly earthed) 'whole house' protector costs about $1 per protected appliance. That power strip protector costs tens (maybe
100) times more money per effective appliance.Review citations from Bud that also show these power strip protector problems. On Page 42 Figure 8 of his first citation: a power strip too close to appliances and too far from earth ground earths a surge,
8000 volts destructively, through the adjacent TV. That is what protectors do. They don't stop or absorb surges. Protectors divert surges to earth. It earth ground is too far away (ie more than 10 feet as in that figure 8), then surges may be earthed destructively through adjacent appliances.Bud's second citation is blunt about what an effective protector must do on Adobe page 8 of 24:
On Adobe page 19 of 24:
All appliances (including that big screen TV) internally contain any protection that would work on its power cord. Protection so robust that 120 VAC electronics must withstand 600 or 1000 volt transients without damage. So that the rare and destructive surge (occurs maybe once every seven years) does not overwhelm appliance internal protection, earth where destructive surges would enter the building. Cable is earthed directly (if properly installed). Telephone wires are earthed by the telco (for free). But your AC electric - the most common source of destructive surges - has no earthing for all AC wires. You must install one 'whole house' protector so that internal protection inside that TV (and all other appliances) is not overwhelmed.
Properly earth one =91whole house=92 protector to have same protection that the telco uses for their switching computers.
Every professional citation notes what provides protection. Earth ground. Those who promote for plug-in protectors manufacturers (and will not admit that conflict of interest) will recommend power strip protectors. Notice the profit margins. A $3 power strip with some $0.10 parts selling for $150. No wonder your big screen TV salesman was promoting that protector so avidly. That ineffective protector is where his greatest profits lie.
A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. No earth ground (ie too far away) means no effective protection. Provided were examples of companies that provides effective surge protectors.
this type of thing? Any opinions on
Poor w_ can't figure out how plug-in suppressors work. Explained in the IEEE guide for anyone that can read and think. Hint: they don't work by stopping or absorbing.
All the companies but SquareD make plug-in suppressors; apparently they aren't "responsible".
For the "best" service panel suppressor, SquareD says "electronic equipment may need additional protection by installing plug-in [surge suppressors] at the point of use."
The illustration in the IEEE guide has a surge coming in on a cable service. There are 2 TVs, one is on a plug-in suppressor. The plug-in suppressor protects TV1, connected to it.
Without the plug-in suppressor the surge voltage at TV2 is 10,000V. With the suppressor at TV1 the voltage at TV2 is 8,000V. It is simply a *lie* that the plug-in suppressor at TV1 in any way contributes to the damage at TV2.
The point of the illustration for the IEEE, and anyone who can think, is "to protect TV2, a second multiport protector located at TV2 is required."
w_ says suppressors must only be at the service panel. In this example a service panel protector would provide absolutely *NO* protection. The problem is the wire connecting the cable entry block to the power service 'ground' is too long (a common problem). The IEEE guide says in that case "the only effective way of protecting the equipment is to use a multiport [plug-in] protector."
What does the NIST guide really say about plug-in suppressors? They are "the easiest solution".
Nonsense.
Provide a source for "must".
According to NIST guide, US insurance information indicates equipment most frequently damaged by lightning is computers with a modem connection TVs, VCRs and similar equipment (presumably with cable TV connections). All can be damaged by high voltages between power and signal wires. That is the source of damage in the IEEE example above.
w_ has a religious belief (immune from challenge) that surge protection must use earthing. Thus in his view plug-in suppressors (which are not well earthed) can not possibly work. The IEEE guide explains plug-in suppressors work by CLAMPING the voltage on all wires (signal and power) to the common ground at the suppressor. Plug-in suppressors do not work primarily by earthing (or stopping or absorbing). The guide explains earthing occurs elsewhere. (Read the guide starting pdf page 40).
Because w_ is evangelical in his belief in earthing, he uses google-groups to search for "surge" to spread his dogma.
Never seen - a source that agrees with w_ that plug-in suppressors do NOT work.
For reliable information read the IEEE and NIST guides. Both say plug-in suppressors are effective.
-- bud--
Lightning has fast rise times and large currents, and induces current in all nearby wires. To really protect a device (your TV) requires normal precautions (grounding the house panel) so that the TV isn't damaged as your house burns down...
The induced currents in your house wiring can still cause the TV to suffer even if the surge is 'arrested' (shunted to ground) at the power panel. A simple plug-through suppressor is worthwhile, and the TV power supply undoubtedly has its own suppressors in place internally. These shunts MUST be applied very near the affected device for best effect. They can fail after several surges, so replaceable cheap units work well.
A third kind of suppression is to use an isolation transformer or (at lower cost) one or more 'clamp chokes' on the power cord. These aren't shunts, but rather are intended to act as series elements, which means they simply reflect a damaging surge (to other devices in your house, like motors and heaters, which are less sensitive). A ten-pound transformer of copper and iron can take lots of surge energy without damage, and has excellent blockage of fast-rising (surge) signals. An ounce of ferrite clamped over the cord won't absorb as much, but reflects surges like a mirror reflects light.
The best suppressors use shunts, series elements (and fuses), and come with a warranty against damage. Shunt device failure is flagged with lights (or by blowing the fuses) and means replacement or factory rebuild is due.
whit3rd forgets what creates an induced surge. Protectors earth surges. Either the surge gets earthed before entering the building, or the surge gets earthed by adjacent plug-in protector. Later - that ground wire - *induces* surges on adjacent wires. This is effective protection? Of course not - and why high reliability facilities don't use plug-in protectors that can even induce surges on other wires.
Whit3rd claims protectors somehow absorb surges. Show me. Where are these numbers? Protection is not by absorbing surges as Whit3rd posts. Where is this protector that claims to stop lightning by absorbing? And where are those numbers? Whit3rd does not answer any of those questions for good reason. The effective protector does not earth surges. An effective protector diverts surges to be absorbed in earth ground. And an effective protector does not induce surges onto other appliances.
Either a surge gets earthed by a 'whole house' protector or the plug- in protector futilely earths a surge via same earth ground. Why? If earth ground was not desirable via a 'whole house' protector, then why is earth ground desirable via a plug-in protector? Obviously the plug- in protector adds nothing useful. How do high reliability facilities get better protection? Upgrade earth ground. Either that surge does not enter a building due to better earthing; or that surge enters a building to induce surges everywhere.
Finally, if using basic electrical knowledge, then he would have never posted:
More reasons why whit3rd has posted naively. a) Fuses take milliseconds to open. Surges are done in microseconds. 300 consecutive surges could do damage and that fuse would not blow. b) Furthermore what is the voltage rating on that fuse? Surge would simply keep conducting through a blown fuse. Another number that whit3rd forgot to learn. Facts that whit3rd should have known. A fuse is not surge protection. Obvious if whit3rd had learned the science (the numbers). Fuses don't provide surge protection made so obvious when one learns the numbers.
A surge that is earthed before entering a building does not created induced surges. A plug-in protector too far from earth ground creates induced surges. We properly size a 'whole house' protector. Then enhance its earthing. Why? A protector is only as effective as their earth ground.
If poor w_ was able to read and think, he would know from the explanation in the IEEE guide that plug-in suppressors work by CLAMPING the voltage on all wires (signal and power) to the common ground at the suppressor. Plug-in suppressors do not work primarily by earthing (or stopping or absorbing). The guide explains earthing occurs elsewhere. (Read the guide starting pdf page 40).
I agree that fuses do not provide surge protection.
Transformers with a shield between primary and secondary may block common mode surges, but do not block transverse mode surges.
The most common surge protection uses MOVs for power wiring and other voltage clamps on signal wires.
w_ completely misses whit?s point that a near lightning strike can directly induce a surge into the house wiring, with the wiring acting as a long wire or loop antenna. A service panel suppressor does not provide protection from this direct induction.
The required statement of religious belief in earthing. The IEEE guide explains plug-in suppressors work primarily by clamping, not earthing.
Still never seen - a source that agrees with w_ that plug-in suppressors do NOT work.
For reliable information read the IEEE and NIST guides. Both say plug-in suppressors are effective.
-- bud--
The plug-in protector promoter (who forgets to acknowledge what he does) now says a protector works by 'clamping to nothing'. As every responsible source says, effective protection is by clamping (diverting, connecting, shunting) surges into earth. Where is that surge energy dissipated? Bud says that energy magically disappears - 'clamping to nothing'. Responsible sources say surge energy, well, lets quote directly from a Bud source ....
NIST does not say anything about 'clamping to nothing'. NIST is quite bunt about what provides protection ... "diverting the surges to ground".
If we install effective protectors, then massive profits in those plug-in protectors disappear. How massive? Take a $3 power strip. Add some $0.10 parts. Sell it for $25 or $150. With profits that large, why would Bud be honest? No wonder he posts insults; forgets to provide a single manufacturer spec that claims protection. Oh? Did Bud again forget to post a spec? He cannot. Protectors that 'clamp to nothing' do not list protection from each type of surge. If the protector cannot make that claim, well, either does Bud. Insults rather than specs are how Bud promoted ineffective products.
Why does that flat screen salesman expend so much time and effort promoting a $150 plug-in protector? View the profit margin; another fact that Bud hopes you will ignore.
Effective protectors make that 'always necessary' short connection to earth ground. How curious. Even Bud's citations define that earthing requirement. 'Clamping to nothing' accomplishes nothing. But it is profitable.
To quote w_ "It is an old political trick. When facts cannot be challenged technically, then attack the messenger." My only association with surge protectors is I have some.
But with no technical arguments, w_ has to discredit those that oppose him.
Still never seen - a source that agrees with w_ that plug-in suppressors do NOT work.
Never answered - embarrassing questions:
- Why do the only 2 examples of protection in the IEEE guide use plug-in suppressors?
- Why does the NIST guide says plug-in suppressors are "the easiest solution"?
For real science read the IEEE and NIST guides. Both say plug?in suppressors are effective.
-- bud--
Bud cannot provide a single plug-in manufacturer's spec that claims protection. 500 requests for those specs and Bud still refuses. Bud promotes protectors that do not even claim to provide protection. A $3 power strip with some $0.10 parts selling for $25 and $150. To protect those profit margins, Bud will post insults.
Effective protectors with a dedicated wire to earth ground have responsible names such as Intermatic, Siemens, Keison, Cutler-Hammer, Leviton, Square D and GE. Not on that list are APC, Tripplite, Belkin, and Monster Cable. How to see why? How to identify an ineffective protector? 1) No essential and required earth ground wire..2) Manufacturer (and Bud) avoids all discussion about earthing.
Both NIST and IEEE citations from Bud bluntly state, "The best surge protection in the world can be useless if grounding is not done properly." Bud says no earthing is required.
No earth ground means no effective protection. Effective protectors are typically connected less than 10 feet to earth ground. Shorter means even better protection. An effective 'whole house' protectors costs about $1 per protected appliance. Why spend $25 or $150 per appliance for protectors without earth ground and recommended by Bud? Bud will not even provide a manufacturer spec. He cannot. Plug-in protectors do not claim to protect from the typically destructive surge. So Bud posts insults.
Provided often and ignored.
w_ has a religious belief (immune from challenge) that surge protection must use earthing. Thus in his view plug-in suppressors (which are not well earthed) can not possibly work. The IEEE guide explains plug-in suppressors work by CLAMPING the voltage on all wires (signal and power) to the common ground at the suppressor. Plug-in suppressors do not work primarily by earthing (or stopping or absorbing). The guide explains earthing occurs elsewhere. (Read the guide starting pdf page 40).
Still never seen - a source that agrees with w_ that plug-in suppressors do NOT work. It is just w_?s opinion based on his religious belief in earthing.
Still never answered - embarrassing questions:
- Why do the only 2 examples of protection in the IEEE guide use plug-in suppressors?
- Why does the NIST guide says plug-in suppressors are "the easiest solution"?
For real science read the IEEE and NIST guides. Both say plug?in suppressors are effective.
-- bud--
im.
Tom: Many surges are from line to neutral. A plug-in surge protector will prevent these from damages the protected equipment. Earth ground provides a better degree of protection but a good level of protection can be realized without an earth ground
Those 'surges' are typically so trivial as to be considered noise. Protection inside all appliances makes that 'line to neutral' surge irrelevant. Have you read those numbers? Internal 120 v appliance protection starts at 600 volts, is said by Bud to be 800 volts, is required by Intel specs to be 1000 volts ... Did you know these numbers that make 'line to neutral' surges irrelevant? Are you replacing dimmer switches daily or weekly due to this surge? Of course not. Even dimmer switches have sufficient protection to make that 'surge' irrelevant.
What does the 'whole house' protector also make irrelevant? The 'line to neutral' surge. The 'whole house unit protect from all type of surges including 'line to neutral'.
Meanwhile, what are the typically destructive surges? From Bud's IEEE citation Page 42 Figure 8 - the plug-in protector earthed a surge, 8000 volts destructively, via the adjacent TV. Which type of surge is typically destructive? Notice which type of surge applied
8000 volts to a TV with a plug-in protector (no earth ground) connected adjacent. Let's see. The typically destructive surge arrives at a plug-in protector and TV. Therefore 8000 volts destroys the TV. That plug-in protector did exactly what its manufacturer claimed.A plug-in protector only claims to protect from surges that typically do not cause damage. A 'line to neutral' surge is made irrelevant by one 'whole house' protector. Typically destructive surges are also made irrelevant by the same one 'whole house' protector.
What is provided by a protector without earth ground. Zero protection from surges that typically cause damage. What does a plug- in protector do? It does not and does not even claim to protect from the typically destructive surge. It only protects from surges made irrelevant by protection already inside appliances AND it does not (cannot) protect from typically destructive surges.
Without earth ground means no protection from typically destructive surges. A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. Those protectors protect from all types of surges. How to identify ineffective protectors? No connection for that short (ie less than 10 foot) earthing wire.
I say -immunity- is -typically- -600-800V-. There is no requirement that immunity is as much as 600V. Immunity is not necessarily by "protection".
Damage is more likely from high voltage between power and signal wires.
The *lie* repeated. The plug-in suppressor reduces the voltage at a second TV (which is not adjacent).
The point for the IEEE, and anyone who can think, is "to protect TV2, a second multiport protector located at TV2 is required."
A service panel suppressor would provide absolutely *NO* protection. The problem is the surge comes in on the cable service, and the 'ground' wire connecting the cable entry block to the power service ?ground? is too long. The IEEE guide says in that case "the only effective way of protecting the equipment is to use a multiport protector."
The type of surge is one coming in on a cable service. A service panel suppressor would provide absolutely NO protection.
As I previously posted, the NIST guide indicates the most common damage is from high voltage between cable/phone wires and power wires (as in this example).
As a result the NIST guide says: "Q - Will a surge protector installed at the service entrance be sufficient for the whole house? A - There are two answers to than question: Yes for one-link appliances [electronic equipment], No for two-link appliances [equipment connected to power AND phone or cable or....]. Since most homes today have some kind of two-link appliances, the prudent answer to the question would be NO - but that does not mean that a surge protector installed at the service entrance is useless."
Complete nonsense.
Plug-in suppressors have MOVs from H-N, H-G, N-G. That is all possible combinations and all possible surges.
If a surge arrives with H & N elevated above G (common mode) the voltage from H-G will be clamped by a MOV, the voltage from N-G will be clamped by another MOV. The voltages between wires to the protected equipment are safe for the protected equipment.
If there are other wires like phone or cable, they also have to go through the suppressor. The voltage on the signal wires is also clamped to the common ground at the suppressor. The voltage between all wires going to the protected equipment is safe for the equipment.
The surge is not necessarily earthed effectively by the suppressor ?ground? wire, but earthing occurs elsewhere in the system. In the IEEE example, the surge is earthed by the cable entry protector ?ground? wire. (Read the example in the IEEE guide starting pdf page 40.)
Properly connected plug-in suppressors are likely to protect from anything but a very near lightning strike. With high ratings, they are likely to also protect from that. The impedance of the branch circuit to a surge greatly limits the current, and thus energy, that can reach a plug-in suppressor.
The required statement of religious belief in earthing. Everyone is for earthing. But the IEEE guide explains plug-in suppressors work primarily by clamping, not earthing.
Still never seen - a source that agrees with w_ that plug-in suppressors are NOT effective.
Still never answered - embarrassing questions:
- Why do the only 2 examples of protection in the IEEE guide use plug-in suppressors?
- Why does the NIST guide says plug-in suppressors are "the easiest solution"?
For real science read the IEEE and NIST guides. Both say plug?in suppressors are effective.
-- bud--
That's true that effective surge protection must use earthing.
Not all equipment comes with a grouded cord. Plugin protectors will protect this equipment equally as well as a grounded protector. The protection will be almost as good as a whole house protector.
At no time was the safety ground on an appliance even relevant. Does not matter whether an appliance has two or three wires (since that third wire is not earth ground). A surge can find earth ground destructively through that appliance. A plug-in protector can even make that damage easier.
Plug-in protectors can even contribute to damage of the adjacent appliance. That is the point of a Bud citation - Page 42 Figure 8. The adjacent TV (even a two wire TV) suffered 8000 volts because the nearby plug-in protector earthed that surge through the TV. Once a surge is permitted inside a building, then destructive paths to earth can exist most anywhere.
Again, where surge damage is not acceptable, one 'whole house' protector is installed and properly earthed. Properly? Numbers such as 'less than 10 feet' to earth ground are relevant. Why? Wire impedance.
Two 'top of the front page' articles in Electrical Engineering Times discuss what and whys. Both articles are entitled "Protecting Electrical Devices from Lightning Transients". So the article discussed plug-in protectors? Of course not. This is science for engineers - not myths for retail salesmen. The article discusses earth ground and other important numbers such as why that earthing wire must be short (ie 'less than 10 feet'). Since they are discussing effective protection, then plug-in protectors are not discussed.
The effective 'whole house' protector means massive protection. Well, it is not perfect. IEEE Green Book puts numbers to imperfect (properly earthed) protection:
We install one 'whole house' protector (properly earthed) so that every of maybe 100 electronics appliances (including more important electronics like smoke detectors and bathroom GFCIs) are not damaged. Protection that is imperfect using numbers such as 99% effective - if properly earthed.
How to have massive surge protection in a house that only has two wire circuits? Exact same 'whole house' protector with earthing at the breaker box, upgraded to exceed post 1990 National Electrical Code requirements. Nothing even says replacing the breaker box. We simply install one 'whole house' protector and earthing. Now even two wire appliances have effective protection - far beyond what any plug- in protector claims to provide.
A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. No earth ground (ie plug-in protectors) means no effective protection.
Did another forget to mention that a plug-in protector is ineffective without a 'whole house' protector? Of course not. If he did, you might learn why earthing provided protection. Then his profits would be at risk. A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. No earth ground means no effective protection. At what point should we ignore damning engineering numbers?
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Decisions, decisions
Surge protectors come in many shapes and forms for many purposes, not just the plug-in kind that you find in the electronic stores. There are several ways to install them on your power supply: plug and play, do-it-yourself, hire a licensed electrician to do it, or even call on your power company to do it. Here is a run down on your options, and who does it:
Purchase one or more plug-in surge protectors Install a surge protector at the service entrance panel Have the power company install a surge protector next to the meter Plug-in surge protectors
This is the easiest solution, and there is a wide variety of brands available in the stores (as we noted at the start of this booklet, we are not going to recommend brands). These come in two forms: a box that plugs directly into a wall receptacle, or a strip with a power cord and multiple outlets. Depending on the appliance, you will look for a simple AC power plug-in, or a more complex combined protector for AC power and telephone or cable -more on that later. However, before you purchase the right protector for the job, you should think about some details.
There is another decision to make, concerning how a surge protector will power your appliance if the protective element should fail under extreme cases of exposure to a large surge or large swell. Most surge protectors are provided internally with some kind of fuse that will disconnect in case of failure. However, this disconnect can operate in two different ways, depending on the design of the surge protector: some will completely cut-off the output power, others will disconnect the failed element but maintain the power output.
Quit and be protected or continue?
For you, it is a matter of choice: would you want to maintain the output power to your appliance -but with no more surge protection? Or would you rather maintain protection for sure -by having the circuit of the protector cut off the power supply to your appliance, if the protective function were to fail? To make an intelligent decision, you must know which of the two possibilities are designed into the surge protector that you will be looking for.
What are the lights telling you?
To help the consumer know what is going on inside the surge protector, many manufacturers provide some form of indication, generally by one or more pilot lights on the device. Unfortunately, these indications are not standardized, and the meaning might be confusing, between one, two - even three or four lights -where it is not always clear what their color means. Read the instructions!
More decisions ...
So far, we have looked mostly at the plug-in surge protectors because they are the easiest to install and they do not require the services of an electrician. The two other possible locations for surge protectors are the service panel (breaker panel) and the meter socket.
Service-panel surge protectors
Instead of using several plug-in protectors -one for each sensitive appliance is sometimes recommended -you can install a protector at the service panel of the house (also called "service entrance" or "breaker box"). The idea is that with one device, all appliances in the house can be protected, perhaps with a few plug-in protectors next to the most sensitive appliances. There are two types of devices available: incorporated in the panel, or outside the panel.
Some breaker panel manufacturers also offer a snap-in surge protector, taking the space of two breakers (assuming that there are blank spaces available on the panel), and easily installed by the home owner or by an electrician. However, there are two limitations or conditions to that approach:
The snap-in protectors generally fit only in a breaker panel from the same manufacturer -possibly down to the model or vintage of the panel.
To install the snap-in protector, you must remove the front panel (do turn off the main breaker before you do that i). Most cities have codes allowing the home owner to do it, under some conditions. Check with your local authorities to find out if they allow you to do that, or hire a licensed electrician to do the installation for you. There are other surge protectors packaged for wiring into the service panel, either within or next to the panel. That kind of installation is best left to a licensed electrician.
At the meter socket
There might be a possibility that the power - company in your area offers, as an option, to install a surge protector with a special adapter, fitting it between the meter and its socket (the dark band in the bubble of the picture). But that type of device and installation is out of the question as a do-it-yourself project, and will require cooperation from the power company, if they do offer the program.
Other types of outdoor surge protectors can be installed near the meter. That kind of installation must be done by a licensed electrician.
w_ says that surge protectors must directly use earthing. Since plug-in suppressors do not usually have a low impedance path to earth, w_ says plug-in suppressors can not work.
The example in the IEEE guide (starting pdf page 40) shows plug-in suppressors work primarily by clamping the voltage on all wires (power and signal) to the common ground at the suppressor. The voltage between the wires going to the protected equipment is safe for the protected equipment. Plug-in suppressors do not work primarily by earthing a surge. Earthing occurs elsewhere in the system. If this is not clear read the example.
-- bud--
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