Cutting windows in project enclosures

Sorry for the trivial question:

What is the simplest, cleaniest way to cut windows in a plastic project enclosure box? I need to place a DB 25 on one of its walls.

TIA

Luca

Reply to
Thot
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Dremmel Tool

Not clean but really simple.

Dave

Reply to
Dave

project

Hi, Luca. The simplest and easiest way is (of course) the most expensive. Mouser has Deltron rear and front mounting DB-25 D-Sub connector punches available as their P/N 38DM941 (rear) and 38DM943 (front). These are available for the miracle low price of $247.51 USD ea., and they're worth every penny if you're cutting a lot of holes.

For a "onesie" or hobbyist application, pick a thermoplastic or easily machineable plastic enclosure. Using the D-sub connector as a template, trace the outline of the connector on the plastic. Use a calipers to get any offset between front and back of the connector, then trace the real hole with a straightedge. Then use a Dremel tool (preferred) or a starter drill and a sharp knife to trim out the hole. After you're done, front-mount the connector to hide any goobs or small irregularities. ;-)

Good luck Chris

Reply to
Chris

The absolute "cleanest" way would be to use a cutting die specifically made for DB25 connectors (available from larger electronic parts distributors). This is also one of the simplest ways. Unfortunately it is also one of the most expensive ways.

I have used a "nibbling" tool to cut holes in metal chassis to specific shapes. The same tool would also work for plasic, so long as the thickness of the plasic is not greater than the maw-width of the "nibbler" tool. Even RadioShack sells "nibbler" tools.

Reply to
tlbs

That's what bezels are made for. Cut the hole, then put something that isn't clear around the edges of the clear pastic covering this window (such as paint), so the choppy cutting can't be seen.

Michael

Reply to
Michael Black

If its plastic I wonder if you could use a scrap metal DB25 shell and heat it up so it melts itself a hole through the plastic. it might just work, or it might go horibly wrong and u end up with a big blob of molten plastic on the bench ....

Colin =^.^=

Reply to
colin

In addition to the other good ideas already posted, here are a some from the wood shop.

If you don't already have it, look for a project box that has a removable front panel which sits in recessed grooves between upper and lower clamshells. Makes life much easier to be able to work on it as a flat surface.

If you can get hold of a drill press, use a bit just smaller than the ID of the void to cut a series of slightly overlapping holes down the centerline of the void area. Gives you less to nibble away with the Dremel when it's time to cut to the final outline.

This also works if the DB25 hole needs to be on the side of a rectangular box. Support the innards with scrap wood and drill from the outside. Requires two people or creative bracing. Do not try to hold it standing on end with one hand and operate the drill press with the other hand.

Even better is an ordinary scroll saw. Drill one pilot hole nearly tangent to the outline and then a single cut with the scroll saw should be all you need. With a little care (and practice and a bit of deburring (no pun intended)) this can give excellent results.

--
Rich Webb   Norfolk, VA
Reply to
Rich Webb

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