wire rope crimping ferrules corrosion

Hi,

I am making a safety line for my well pump and using a 350foot long 1/8" stainless steel cable (1x19, 19 strands). I have some aluminum crimp ferrules but since a portion of this cable will be underwater there is a corrosion issue between aluminum and stainless steel, so I am considering to use either a stainless steel crimp ferrule to form a wire loop at the well pump, or some other type of cable end fitting. Any suggestions on a fitting and also if the aluminum ferrule would probably be ok or not?

cheers, Jamie

Reply to
Jamie M
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Jamie M wrote in news:qm6sf8$1pi5$ snipped-for-privacy@gioia.aioe.org:

Go to a sail boat marina service shop. They swage cables all the time for salt water immersion.

Yeah, I'd go stainless on stainless.

Hey, I know! Install a small pulley, and loop the cable all the way back up and set up a permanent winch 'elevator'. Always serviceable, always upgradeable. I know... too elaborate. Just kidding.

There are all stainless clamps and screws you could place a couple up the cable to secure the loop They would be serviceable, and no swageing required.

Reply to
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno

Jamie M wrote in news:qm6sf8$1pi5$ snipped-for-privacy@gioia.aioe.org:

Reply to
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno

On boats, aluminum ferrules are NOT recommended for stainless steel wire rope due to corrosion: What is recommended are stainless steel sleeves: or zinc plated copper sleeves: Note that 1/8" cable requires 3 crimps per sleeve. and perhaps a thimble: I also suggest you use a proper crimping tool:

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558
Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

What could possibly go wrong? I was wondering if 1/8" stainless cable was strong enough. Under normal cricumstances, it should be able to lift the submersible pump and power cable with ease.

334 lb working load and 1,670 lb breaking strength. No problem.

However, if the well casing is old and perforated, causing the well pipe to fill with mud above the pump, the safety cable will now need to be able to lift a 350 ft vertical column of water. I don't know the size of your well pipe, so I'll guess(tm) 4 inches. The volume of water in the pipe is: Pi * r^2 * height = 3.14 * (2/12)^2 * 350 = 31 cubic feet of water Water weighs 62.4 lbs/cubic-ft so: 31 cubic-ft * 62.4 lbs/cubic-ft = 1,930 lbs. which is greater than the 1,670 lb breaking strenght for 1/8" wire rope. You might want to consider using a larger gauge wire rope.

However, the chances of this worst case nightmare happening are very small. If it does happen, you only need to pump out: 7.5 gallons/cubic-ft * 31 cubic-ft = 233 gallons of water to take most of the weight off the submersible pump. Hopefully, the combined weight of the pump, power cable, and mud will be less than 1,670 lbs, so the pump can be extracted.

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558
Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

Hi,

The well pipe is a poly tube, and I can actually lift the ~380foot poly pipe and pump just by hand (I lifted it off the pitless adapter by hand, need to replace the pump), it had a poly rope as the "safety cable" which I noticed is old and fraying so to avoid all the little plastic pieces of rope falling into the well I decided to upgrade it to a stainless cable.

I already have a crimping tool which I've used for aluminum compression sleeves, hopefully it will work on stainless compression sleeves, I ordered some of these stainless compression sleeves:

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cheers, Jamie

Reply to
Jamie M

Any ideas for attaching the safety cable to the top of the well casing? I have seen one way is to use a wire rope clamp with two small drill holes through the side of the casing, and then the wire rope clamp is used to clamp the wire rope to the side of the casing.

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Reply to
Jamie M

All I can add is caution about that word 'hopefully'. Crimped sleeves on wire can look sound & work at first yet still let go readily, it takes a lot more force on them to ensure they can't let go.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

High tension lines, guy wires... sail boat lines... There are a lot of cables that get 'swaged' terminations that hold up under stress. That is the right term... 'Swaged'. A 'crimp' infers an electrical terminal connection onto a conductor.

Hydraulic fittings also get 'swaged' onto the hose they are being added to, and they handle hundreds of PSI.

'crimp' sounds weak (for a cable). 'swage' sounds integral, strong, reliable. If you grew up learning both terms and their applications.

'crimped sleeves on wire'???

He never mentioned that. He is talking about crimped (swaged) CLAMPS on stainless WIRE ROPE. Structural stuff, not electrical stuff.

Reply to
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno

maybe you missed this bit from the OP:

Or maybe you're just determined to be a tw-t yet again.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

Yes, dork. He too used the wrong term. But he never said "wire" and you did.

He posted for info, we provided info. You did not. You continued the flaw and spouted stupid electrical industry conductor parlance when the topic was mechanical rope type cable. So you missed what he was asking about, obviously.

And you being a pussy about what spew issues from your brain but feel the need to abbreviate it here is truly pathetic as well.

tw-t that, dipshit. Yet again... yet another immature punk response. You were too stupid to even tell that you were f***ed up in what you said and had to go off on me instead of noting the particular flaw in your post and now subsequent bitch about it.

Reply to
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno

On Sep 22, 2019, Jamie M wrote (in article ):

As others have said, do not use aluminum on stainless wire.

What sailboat riggers do is to flood the stranded wire cable with hot lanolin before assembly and crimping, so there are no open spaces in the crimped assembly. Lanolin mixed with tar is also used.

There are also commercial products. West Marine sells this one:

.

Joe Gwinn

Reply to
Joseph Gwinn

Sounds slippery! Swaged (as DLU correctly insists) fittings don't just pinch the cable or make a dent in it, the mashed material cold-flows into the cable. Aircraft control cables are swaged.

Reply to
Local Favorite

No, because a pull line is usually attached to something in the well head or well house. I can't offer any suggestions because I know what you have to work with. Offhand, I don't like what I'm reading and suggest you have a well and pump installer look at your plans. Or, ask the same questions on a forum intended for water well owners. I are not an expert on the topic.

I suggest you spend a little extra and use stainless steel hardware:

The well cap usually has a flap valve vent that is designed to equalize air pressure, but not let any surface water into the well. If you drill holes in the side of the well casing, you're bypassing the flap valve.

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558
Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

Oops. That should be "...because I don't know what you have to work with".

Why you may not want to drill holes in the well casing:

You could probably get away with drilling a hole or two into the well casing. Just make sure it's water tight and sealed against water and bug incursion.

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558
Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

You sound like someone who's never touched raw lanolin. Slippery is what it's not!

Reply to
Clifford Heath

Hi,

The well cap wasn't sealed on this well, it is just a one piece cast aluminum with a gap for the pump 240VAC wires. I will replace that well cap with a sealed two piece cap thanks.

cheers, Jamie

Reply to
Jamie M

My aluminum well cap inner diameter is about 6 13/16", and is a hammer tight fit on the well casing, maybe this one will fit, apparently works with 6 5/8" casings.

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cheers, Jamie

Reply to
Jamie M

you're free to waste someone else's time.

Reply to
tabbypurr

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news:cf0d8d87-666b-4dc7-a6ba- snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

up

Yeah, sure.... walk away instead of facing your flaws.

You are free to be corrected again in the future, and you taking it like a child will result in a similar response again the next time.

You being unfamiliar with the differences between the terms alone is a tell. Especially when you argue them while in possession of an incomplete set of information.

Wires get crimped.

Big connection terminal fittings get crimped onto welding cable ends and the like.

Support strands (cables) get fittings swaged or swedged (in some circles).

High pressure hoses have fitting swaged onto them.

Some folks across all of those industries still use the term 'crimp' even though 'newer' terms are in place that distinguishes differences.

Don't get mad, simply get informed.

It is like the twerps that for so long called a single cell a "battery".

It eventually got accepted as correct terminology, even though it never was or is not still. So bad to the point where folks refer to actual sets of cells scientists properly call a "battery" as a "battery pack", as if the package contains multiple 'batteries'. It contains mutliple cells.

If you don't like the other monikers like dork or dipshit, maybe you should not have jumped onto the krw/larkin/TraitorTard4 stupidity bandwagon. Shit like that tends to end up back in your face.

But notice none in this post. There is a way you can keep that demeanor in me.

Reply to
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno

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