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becomes a common drain. I just don't see it in a single family residence, e specially when these heat exchangers sell for $450 apiece, and you would ne ed a lot of them.
by 8 to get a realistic diy construction cost.
gy star appliances, clothes washers and dishwashers, which also minimize wa ter usage, flow limiters on shower heads I think are 2.5 GPM, which is plen ty, they should come out ahead. I think the commonly available and cheap 99 % efficiency electric water heater, at my $0.11 rate, estimates at $400 for an entire year for a family of four.
the shower & hot water heater you'd save $100 a year. If it's there for 20-
30 years that's 2-3k saved. Not bad for under $100.You now need to run the cold water-> heat exchanger->shower mixing valve. I don't see running a second cold water feed all the way back to the hot wa ter feed cold water inlet.
at, so it warmed the cold feed into the shower. If you wanted to recover he at from other things you'd run the incoming cold feed via your heat exchang er to the HW cylinder/boiler. Whether that would add no or lots of pipe dep ends on house layout.
be at lower pressure and therefore will not enter the tank. The return pip ing would need a one way flow valve, and then you would either need to shut down the cold water street feed to the tank via another valve or use a boo ster pump of some kind to overcome street pressure to get the water into th e tank. Those kinds of components are not cheap.
wer duration is 5 minutes, making for just 5 gallons of water total, of whi ch maybe 3 gallons may come out of the hot water heater. It just doesn't se em like all that trouble is worth it.
That's confused. The heat is returned to the HW cylinder, when that option is used, simply by running the cold feed to the cylinder through the drain heat exchanger first. That cold feed stays at mains pressure.
NT