Trailer and Power Generator

Hurricane season is coming and I needed to get a source of emergency power to keep my business inventory frozen if we do lose power. I don't have a convenient place to permanently place the generator, so I decided to put it on a trailer. Now I can store it in the back yard and move it near the house as needed. I was almost ready to buy the Honda EU6500isa for $3,400 but found the Miller Bobcat 250 for $3,389 with

58% more watts and I think the welder will hold it's value better, so I bought the Miller.

I got the trailer from Harbor Freight, Regular price $259.99 on sale for $199.99 but I was only billed $179.99. :-)

formatting link

I bought a Miller Bobcat 250 welder with 9,500 watts continuous power.

formatting link
Check their ebay price, $100 cheaper but they offered the ebay price to me.

Pictures below.

My son helping with assembly in the living room. Air conditioned workshop (wife was working)

formatting link

Trailer assembled except for fenders.

formatting link

Trailer with 3/4" plywood base.

formatting link

Trailer with welder mounted, Balance worked out well, about 30 lb tongue weight.

formatting link
I can push it around the yard myself. Welder is 560 lbs, trailer rated at 1090 lbs. Don't have plans to tow it on road, but trailer came with title, fenders and lights.

I'll be adding a drop on cover to keep the rain off. Cover design thoughts still churning.

Mike

Reply to
amdx
Loading thread data ...

formatting link

Looks pretty good. Place some mothballs into the generator to keep critters out.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus8716

formatting link

Tongue weight is a bit light if you plan to actually tow it on the highway. Rule of thumb for smaller trailers is tongue weight = 10% of gross trailer weight, more if the CG is high. The short tongue and light tongue weight will really wag badly. Move the unit about 2" forward and you should be good to go.

Reply to
RoyJ

formatting link

Thanks iggy, I was awake at 3am thinking about mice chewing on the wiring. Mike

Reply to
amdx

formatting link

I'll keep that rule of thumb in mind. I got lucky on the balance, I centered the welder with the engine to the rear and it came out as stated. The welder is 45-3/8" and the trailer is 48", no more room to move unit forward. If it had been negative weight on the tongue, I had thoughts about moving the axle/spring mounting location. Or rotating the welder 180*, I might still look into that as it would be slightly more convenient to have the controls and connections in the rear. Mike Mike

Reply to
amdx

amdx schrieb:

Hello,

is the generator protected against water when standing outside in a hevy rainfall?

Bye

Reply to
Uwe Hercksen

formatting link

Also when you wake up at 3AM worrying about mice, consider doing a exercise run of the generator set. Run for about an hour or so (fully loaded) at least every 30 days, and at critical times, maybe every two weeks. Also don't forget to keep the battery charged! (and to have fuel, lots of fuel, on hand...)

Reply to
PeterD

Not yet, but as I said in my original post, "I'll be adding a drop on cover to keep the rain off. Cover design thoughts still churning." I wish I could find the metal from a discarded above ground swimming pool. I could use that to make a nice arching cover. Mike

Reply to
amdx

Invest in a Battery Tender and mount it in the trailer errantly.

formatting link
Park your trailer near an outlet, (install one if necessary). Thank me later.

Vaughn

Reply to
vaughn

Just a couple of thoughts after looking at your pix:

1) Those trailers rust on the angle iron frame under the plywood, where it tends to stay damp. That same dampness rots the plywood! The cure is tar or some type of calking to exclude the water from running down the gap between the plywood and the steel. The only alternative is inside storage.

2) For on-road travel, make sure that the generator is somehow fastened to the frame of the trailer, not just to the plywood.

Vaughn

Reply to
vaughn

Hi Vaugh,

1) That was in the plan, but then I got started and it seemed to have good paint on it, so I didn't undercoat. I did use treated plywood. 2) This trailer was in lieu of putting a concrete pad in an inconvenient place. Now I can just wheel the generator where I need it for as long as I need it. Hopefully I won't need it.
Reply to
amdx

Is this an air cooled generator ??

Can an air cooled gen run for 24/7 ??

I thought that they need to be shut down every few hours. ( I don't know any better )

Are there are water cooler gen's of this size ??

I am sure they would cost a lot more.

Thanks for any info.

hamilton

Reply to
hamilton

Yes, no reason why not. That said: there is a vague classification of generators called "Prime Power" generators that are truly made to run 24/7/365. This is a portable "standby" generator, so is not made to that standard (not even close!) but is fine for occasional duty that may run into weeks.

An air-cooled generator loaded and used within its specifications will get as hot as it is going to get in 15 or 20 minutes. perhaps sooner. There would be no reason to let it "rest" every few hours, except to give your ears a rest, save fuel, and check the oil.

Yes. They are bigger, heavier, quieter, & more expensive. There is a reason why most cars have water cooled engines!

Vaughn

Reply to
vaughn

Thanks, thats is what I wanted to know.

This also makes sense.

hamilton

Reply to
hamilton

How about refuel.

Of course I have done that without shutting off during amateur field day. I did like to check the oil.

You should have a shut offf valve after the fuel tank, and this is absolutely required for storage inside.

You can make sound baffles for noise.

Ground rods are nice.

Exactly how your going to connect to devices is always interesting.

Reply to
GregS

Ground rods are MANDATORY for what the OP wants to do!!!! There should be a ground rod pounded in near where the unit will parked when running, a nice #8 copper wire going from the generator chassis to the rod. A ground strap from generator to trailer frame. This goes double if it is expected to running in semi flooded conditions or near salt water.

Yep. setups that are code legal for the 99.8% of the time you are on grid power and that are flexible for alternate power take some planning and $$$

Reply to
RoyJ

Good comment about testing fully loaded. I just picked up a 20 kw electric furnace heating assembly. I'll derate it by running the elements on 120 rather than 240, makes for a nice switch selectable 5 kw load bank. The OP could make do with 2 or 3 stove burner elements.

Reply to
RoyJ

Ya! The initial purpose is to keep 12 chest freezers running. Now that I have a 9,600 watt generator, there is some thought about getting a transfer switch installed, so I can have air conditioning during a hurricane power outage. Mike

Reply to
amdx

One at a time start-up.!!!!

Reply to
GregS

ng

=A0 Mike

If you are sure you will be around maybe you could wire a relay contact with a parallel indicator light in series with each compressor, and use an aux contact and a momentary pushbutton to close and latch the relay until the compresser turned itself off.

Each freezer would then light the indicator to request power when its thermostat tripped and you could start them one at a time. A switch across the relay contacts would let them run automatically.

Will they stay cold enough overnight?

formatting link
ircuit.html M is the relay. The capacitor-like elements are its contacts and the circle is the coil.

I know, both the text and schematics of control circuits are like a foreign language even if you studied electronics.

jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

ElectronDepot website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.