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soldering aluminum and iron

Just hoping someone has some experience with this. Is there a way to solder (hard or soft) aluminum to iron? Or is there a type of welding possible? - please note that although I know explosive welding will work, it does tend to cause a bit of tension with the neighbors and local police. So that one is out.

I have a vague recollection it is not possible, but that may be it is not possible with a particular type of alloy stick for soldering I had. If I had the gear I would just go out and test it - but alas I would have to buy it all, either as a small scale test set up which is afterwards useless or buy the gear big enough for the project which is an expensive risk if it cant be done and the gear is rather useless to me after the job is done. The idea is to weld a 27 x 0.75 inch of spring steel 9260 into a u shaped channel of aviation grade aluminum to produce a light weight katana blade that will take a durable edge.

I know this is not the 'best' group to ask but the people here have a wide experience in just about everything so TIA David Eather

Reply to
david eather
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Try uk.d-i-y it's far more appropriate and you *will* get many useful answers there (although not for another 6 or 7 hours or so!)

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Reply to
Cursitor Doom

You would probably get good results with a strong epoxy to cement the blade in and at the same time be able to fill the channel and finish it off better. I have cemented power hacksaw blades into aluminium tube to make knives, perhaps you might consider that method as neater than the channel?

Reply to
Rheilly Phoull

Yes, but not in one operation. You can get 'aluminum solder' (actually a zinc alloy of some sort) that (after you abrade the aluminum) can be made to stick on aluminum with no flux. And tin/lead solder, with acid flux (I like the NoKoRode stainless formula), will work on steel.

After removing the acid flux, you can join the two solders together.

I've used fluxes that made the aluminum solder stick without the race from wire-brushing to heating (melt the solder within seconds of the 'cleaning' phase, or it doesn't stick), but they were covered with warning labels, kinda scary.

Reply to
whit3rd

I've never tried (soft) soldering iron, but Aluminum and stainless steel just need the right flux. (Alco aluminum flux and Stay brite for SS.) Soft solder is kinda weak though... may not be good for a blade.

George H.

Reply to
George Herold

On May 8, 2019, whit3rd wrote (in article):

The classic dodge is to use a fiberglass or stainless steel brush to abrade the hot aluminum surface under a pool of molten solder. The solder excludes the atmosphere, allowing fluxes of ordinary aggression to work.

Joe Gwinn

Reply to
Joseph Gwinn

Eutectic rod and MAP gas are your best bet, but that is too hot for silicon.

Reply to
jurb6006

Many thanks for the answers and suggestions - lots to think about. If you don't hear from me again you know I tried one of the toxic chemicals without success!

Reply to
david eather

Back in WW2 the RAF repaired airplanes by soldering aluminum with plumbing solder, under oil. No idea what they used for flux.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs 
Principal Consultant 
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics 
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 

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Reply to
Phil Hobbs

An airplane with structural soft solder :/

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

Not a problem. Some surface defects and cracks on supersonic aircraft (F1-11, max speed mach 2.5 for example) are patched with a type of 'sticky tape' called 'instant air-frame'.

Reply to
david eather

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Reply to
Lasse Langwadt Christensen

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