Well I am the head n----r rigger (don't tell Black people I said that, it i s like hitting below the belt) and the King of clip leads, so...
Is there a drive optimization network on board you can modify for the new c hopper ? If so, great. If it runs directly off the IC or whatever then you have to choose the replacement with much care. If these things are used/sur plus there are probably better transistors available now, but don't spend t he rent on them. Heat might be a problem, that is why switching is so impor tant. I've seen 100 watt class D amps with NO heatsinking except the foil on the board. So this is doable.
That brings up the question of load variation, is it going to drive a motor ? Can the rotor be locked under certain conditions ? I'm sure you can do t he modifications to the current limiting, or putit in, but it still has to do its job.
If the rectifiers won't make it replace them of course. If you deem extra f iltering to be necessary just put it on the outside. Much easier and allows you to use a better quality cap. As big as you want.
Just some recommendations from an old gizmawhatchit builder. My latest proj ect is almost silly. I wanted a remote control tester. I know they have IR cards but f*ck all that. So I took and cut the board from the front of an o ld VCR and a part of a board from a TV with the standby supply. Put them to gether with solder and silicone goop, put in a regulator and a buffer for a light bulb, and have an output for a scope or use as a remote extender.
I know I know, I have too much time on my hands. Wanna gimme a job ?
Anyway, there is another advantage to modding them, you get twice as many a s you would running them in pairs, even if that got figured out.
Have fun. I would.