Re: Antenna tester

We have to remove them to test them now. We energize the

> transmitter, aka oscillator, for the buried wire then set a new antenna > directly over and perpendicular to the guide wire. We remove the > suspect antenna and put it in the exact place as the new one and compare > readings. Typical readings using our Fluke meters with a dummy load > are 20 mv or so. Link to picture of antenna: >
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what is written on the label?

My idea was to use 12 volts from an accessory outlet on an atv. I'd > make some sort of a wand to hold against the antennas that would > energize the antenna so I could take a reading similar to what I see > normally.

Automotive electric power is sketchy, the smaller the vehicle the worse it gets, you don't want accidentally bust your test equipment.

The antennas run at 833, 1000, or 1200 hz. I found this gizmo and > thought it might be useful: >

Page1 and page2 disagree about which version is A and which is B so take care when ordering.

for those playing along at home that appears to be a CD4060 chip set-up to oscillate in the audio range, but they have pixelated the markings in the PDF.

My idea is to put three of these gizzies in some sort of box and set > each one to one of the three frequencies. Put three outlets on the box > then plug the wand into whichever one matches the antennas I want to test. > Is this at all workable?

Yeah, that should work, I'd go with battery power instead of plugging into the ATV. those things will use less power than a portable radio does, so you should get good battery life.

You can get audio jacks that have normally open switches inside them, so you could have the socket turn the power on when you plug in

If I was doing it I'd use an LM555 instead of the CD4060 the 555 has a stronger output and is probably more frequency stable, (but in the end that depends on the other parts on the board also being stable)

(555 oscillator module)

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What you describe is a specialised signal generator, your specialised version is likely to be easier to use than a general purpose signal generator.

at audio frequencies where this works the only practical antenna type is a loop antenna, your buried anrtenna wires form a very large loop.

So for your wand you also need a loop. someting like several overlaid loops of fine electric wire (preferably magnet wire). maybe wound on a plastic jar lid, or on a hand reel, or some other non-metallic frame.

It's going to need a resistor in series to not overload the oscillator, about 100 ohms should be sufficient, maybe a add variable resistor too so that you can adjust the power level.

--
  When I tried casting out nines I made a hash of it.
Reply to
Jasen Betts
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The frequency, part #, and the parent company. Picture here:

Good. That would make it handier to use too.

There is usually a twisted pair wire running from the center of the field where the control panel is to the edge of the field. It's connected to a single wire running in a loop around the field where we want the corner arm to run. It's probably close to 11,000 ft. of 14 awg. copper wire.

What about using a potted solenoid valve coil? Some of those have about 25 ohms resistance. Put it in series with that variable resistor? They look like this:

Thank you

Reply to
Dean Hoffman

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