If I *don't* want to mount an 8P8C connector on the board (to accept a "connector terminated" cable), how can I quickly fasten (i.e., without solder) such a cable to a PCB?
Can I purchase individual "solder-tail" IDC connection points like from a 66 block? Or, are there cleverer solutions (requiring very little board space and depth)? Ideally, something that a tradesman could install with minimal training (ideally,
*less* thn would be required to teach him to reliably fasten a generic network connector to a cable)
If your connections must be maintained, stick with the 8P8C connector. Otherwise, bad connection means you will need to rework or replace the PCB, not just nip off the connector from the loose wire and crimp in another.
IDC (insulation displacement connector) solutions for stranded won't be right for solid, and vice versa, which means some of your wiring won't be compatible with the PCB mounted IDC, no matter which you use.
I used these to terminate solid CAT5 for alarm circuits. Price is approximately $0.80 to $1.25/ea via Ali Express: I suggest 2.54mm (0.100in) lead spacing and #26 - #18AWG. Use a thermal stripped to prevent nicking the wires. Solid wire gives a good grip, but stranded wire tends to slip, unless you tin the ends.
Various insulation displacement connectors (that don't require wire stripping): I've never used these and therefore have no clue how well (or badly) they work.
Digikey has 1569 items under "direct wire to board" type connectors: and "wire to board" type connectors: I don't want to dig through the mess right now, but there might be something in there for you in #24 solid wire.
If you want to really quickly terminate CAT5 without stripping or soldering, put some plated through holes in the PCB that are slightly larger than #24 wire gauge. Strip the CAT5 wires with a thermal wire stripper, and shove them into the holes. Add hot melt glue to fasten in place. This derangement won't handle much current and is not particularly reliable, but it is quick and cheap. I've actually done something like this once and it held up amazingly well.
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
They are intended to be "install and forget". Space is at a premium so I am trying to avoid the volume for the receptacle and mater plug (plus the unavoidable service loop)
I'm expecting an istaller to leave enough of a service loop to be able to access the device while connecting it to the cable. Similarly, to be able to access the device while
*removing* it from the cable. If the last 1/8" of the cable has to be "sacrificed" when mated to a replacement device, that just cuts down on the service loop available thereafter.
A smart installer/maintainer learns to preserve as much wire as possible to guard against having to run NEW wire!
Yes. But I can specify which type to use. Of course, the risk is that an unscrupulous installer will "have the wrong stuff on hand" and proceed, regardless -- not informing the owner of the potential problem.
Yeah, something similar was suggested up-thread. I'm concerned that (once mated to a cable) it will eat up too much volume.
I.e., an 8P8C (with its mate!) is really pretty large (volume) when you consider that it's just terminating 8 small gauge wires. You "pay" for the ability to easily disconnect.
I was thinking more along the lines of something like this: but, one that doesn't rely on the conductors being one physically connected web (ribbon).
I.e., imagine a crimpable 8P8C connector whose mating pins are *soldered* to the PCB so all you have to do is thread 8 conductors into it (in the proper order) and then squeeze it with pliers (instead of a special crimping tool) to have reliably mated those wires to the board.
If you have to replace the board, you cut the cable as close to the connector body as possible and only "lose" a tiny bit of the service loop when you mate the replacement board.
[boards are only removed when they have failed]
I need to terminate lots of wires (for different applications) with a similar technique; I'd like it to be somewhat universal regardless of the specific (sub)application. The cable end will be in a place that might not be easily accessible. So, I can't count on the user having anything beyond "crude" tools and poor lighting to achieve those goals.
[I also have to handle some larger wire gauges so will already have to deal with those as "different"]
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