Practical PCB Production Soldering?

I have a rather large metal plate with PCB's mounted on it, mainly as a power distribution "cable." There is Silicone involved, but since that stuff is good to

300 C, I'm not too worried. Using Ag-Sn solder paste.

The question is: Should I build an oven to do this, ot is there another option?

I am not too intimidated by building a 400 C oven. Classicly, that would be nichrome in Alundum plates or a SiC globar. (overkill). To make trouble, I would consider heating elements from 306 stainless bars, powered by a welder power supply. This would be topped off with an Al plate, lined with SS shim stock. Fire bricks go on top.

Is this unnecessary lunacy, because there is a "soldering service?" Any comments welcome.

jb

Reply to
haiticare2011
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Are the PCBs heat-sunk to the plate?

Solder reflow, especially lead-free, requires fairly precise time-temperature profiles, which is usually done in a multizone conveyer reflow oven. Preferably in nitrogen.

Why not (have someone else) reflow the boards, then assemble to the power plate?

Incidentally, it sounds like your assembly might be hard to maintain, especially if the boards are stuck to the plate with silicone grease or adhesive. I'd suggest something less messy, like the Bergquist sil-pad things and PEMs with screws.

Packaging is 50% of electronics.

--

John Larkin                  Highland Technology Inc 
www.highlandtechnology.com   jlarkin at highlandtechnology dot com    

Precision electronic instrumentation
Reply to
John Larkin

If the parts are large or glued down you could try hot air. Another good diy technique is infra-red. Heat transfer up through the metal plate and through the pcb substrate sounds trickier to me but willing to be corrected.

What size is the assembly and what kind of parts (largest and smallest) are involved? Is this a one-off or will it be recurring?

piglet

Reply to
piglet

I do reflow of standard SAC305 solder with a GE toaster oven and a thermocouple ramp and soak temperature controller. I have to poke the thermocouple into a through hole in the board to detect actual temperature, the air doesn't get heated as hot as the boards, due to the IR. This oven holds an 8.5 x 11" piece of paper (just barely). I normally ramp to 180 C, hold for 1 minute, then ramp to 235 - 240 C hold for 1 minute, and then ramp down. 400 C will smoke most electronics.

Jon

Reply to
Jon Elson

It is a narrow pcb 2 feet long by 1 inch wide... Should be recurring, but in prototype stage... thanks jb

Reply to
haiticare2011

thanks. pcb not heat sunk down. I'm prototyping, and doing hand wiring, so thinking about pcb. Easy to get a 2 ft. pcb x 1 inch?

jb

Reply to
haiticare2011

OK - Hw do you apply solder? I started my career (heh heh) in metallurgy, so have built a few furnaces.

Reply to
haiticare2011

That should fit on a standard panel, so should be OK.

--

John Larkin                  Highland Technology Inc 
www.highlandtechnology.com   jlarkin at highlandtechnology dot com    

Precision electronic instrumentation
Reply to
John Larkin

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that's a big panel, where we normally get PCBs maximum size for two layers are 585 x 435 mm (~23"x~17")

-Lasse

Reply to
Lasse Langwadt Christensen

John Know any sources of single sided board, 23" or so? tia JB

Reply to
haiticare2011

look like these will do 500x1100mm

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-Lasse

Reply to
Lasse Langwadt Christensen

Solder paste is applied first with a stencil and metal squeegee. I use a .003" stencil made from brass shim stock, I coat it with dry film resist, expose to master artwork on both sides, develop and then etch just like it was a PC board. You can have stencils made fairly cheaply, but since I already had the gear to do it, I do it myself.

After the paste is applied, I place the components with a pick and place machine, then put it in the oven to reflow the solder. Works very well.

Jon

Reply to
Jon Elson

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