PCB type USB connector burn through I have the RTL 2832U E4000 DVB-T tuner in use as receiver for spectrum analysr etc. End less problems with bad contacts in the USB connector.
Had a look with a magifying glass in the connector, and what I did see was horrible. Removed the metal from from the connector and took a picture:
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This thing gets quite hot in use, after burning through the lead free solder, sparks burned through the copper layer under in, the PCB.
Soldered some wires to it with a real USB connector on the other end. Hope it does not die of over-heating.
Is this, could this be, an other lead free feature?
On a sunny day (Sat, 06 Dec 2014 11:53:58 -0800) it happened Robert Baer wrote in :
Na, yaaa, plugging it in the USB is what it is designed for. if it was over current how do the datalines get over current? Thing should have died. Was not USB max 600mA? makes 3W, about figures with the heat in that postage stamp size thing.
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You can barely touch that connector so hot does it get.
On Sat, 06 Dec 2014 11:53:58 -0800, Robert Baer Gave us:
ANY USB "feed" "cable" should never be capable of carrying more than the USB spec for current, 2.0 Amperes.
There are no "beefy" USB spec devices. Noise in a "supply" is usually what someone should worry about being a mile off, but excessive overcurrent indicates someone feeding a cable with a lab supply and being too stupid to remain properly current limited. Much less observe the energization curve and shut off if anomalous.
Device makers need to NOT "demand" more from an attached supply rail than it can or should feed as well.
So, warm devices may not always be the battery taking a charge. Many times it is a resistive connector conductor or the charging circuit itself.
On Sat, 6 Dec 2014 10:52:20 -0800 (PST), Lasse Langwadt Christensen Gave us:
One should ALWAYS plug a device into a NON-energized cable,preferably not connected at all, THEN the power source end, THAN apply power from either a hard source (dongle) or soft internally bussed feed (PC, which usually initiate power upon insertion).
The "plugging in" of a live cord is detrimental to both the device's connector contacts and the cord's connector contacts, which we do not repair these days, so call it damage to the entire cord (and device).
Even the Gold plated variety only sport a few micro-incehs of plating and power 'bites' of live insertion and removal cycles will degrade those contacts faster than a set of badly adjusted lawn mower engine points.
After all this occurs, folks begin to think their battery is "going bad" because it no longer fully charges, because it is no longer a full USB spec voltage feed.
I have 'wiggled' many a cord AT the dongle itself and at the device entry port, and can get full (fool) charges.
It all comes down to knowing and following proper procedure for insuring high longevity in your devices, and one would think that MONSTER cable would have sported some "heavy plated" versions or even a clamp type adapter to add as a fixed element to shift the damage out one position.
Powered USB trough those little cords is fine, unless the device actually wants to use the full 2 Amp spec... then things get iffy quick with folks going around hot plugging things. The "thing" can handle it operationally. It's outfitted gear, however, needs to be taken care with. They are items which get made in multi-million piece levels. That makes them cheap to buy, but servicing is not easy.
A serviceable port on devices, OR one which allows clamp (jackscrew)level fixturing, with perhaps a hard power line switch.
Goes against the modern, slimming down paradigm, and the "its ubiquitous, just buy another" idiocy.
I want stainless steel car frames, like my pistol, and more stainless and titanium elsewhere as well. Not plated shit like our 'silverware' either.
So,the moral...
APPLY POWER AFTER CONNECTION AND REMOVE POWER BEFORE REMOVAL
THAT is the rule for interconnect cords for modern devices.
Just like cell phone use in cars, and idiots who drive 5 seconds after an engine start... I doubt seriously anyone will give an additional millisecond of consideration to adding longevity to their collection of modern devices, which they are going to want a new version of in a couple years or so anyway.
What a f***ed up society. Escalated inflation. You idiots may as well walk right up to the guillotine and nest you head under the blade voluntarily.
Oh... that's right... that is what you all did.
Don't forget to keep your powder dry? No... don't forget to keep your prayers and your Sunday "I showed up" church visits dry.
Edification is the goal, right?
So many of us have degraded 'contacts' on our connectors. Good luck with fixing that.
AFAIR they've upped that a while ago. Not sure if all mainboards comply... Some time ago I bought a DVB-T stick, which crashes the whole USB bus after a few minutes of use. It is unusable. _All_ attached devices would spontaneously disconnect. Luckily, I still use a PS/2 Keyboard ... It happens on multiple machines, one of them believed to be able to supply 2A current. I some of those crappy DVB things probably draw WAAAAYYYY too much current. You might want to measure that.
Another thing might be charge accumulation. Are you using some kind of unearthed antenna, or other unearthed equipment featuring metal surfaces, with it? Large enough to have a uF capacitance towards ground? perhaps nearby strong signals? You'd get arc-welding when you plug it in.
On a sunny day (Sat, 06 Dec 2014 17:22:05 -0500) it happened Martin Riddle wrote in :
Yes and I am a bit worried what this thing did to the connectors in my laptops, PCs, raspberries, and USB extention cables.
Was thinking about it before I fell asleep... seems they use the USB metal part as heatsink for that chip under it. I have some nice small diecast box somewhere, will try to heatsink that chip and put it in it,. Size does not really matter for me. It actually is much easier to use with a long USB cable now.
On a sunny day (Sun, 07 Dec 2014 01:16:50 +0100) it happened Johann Klammer wrote in :
That may have happened, scope is not grounded, but that is only a few nF decoupling in the mains filter. I have not been running any high power RF with this thing around. In fact I treated this thing very carefully, it is a great thing using rtl_sdr for spectrum inspection, receiving some funny signals (ADS, ATS, digital TV, etc, even FM radio with rtl_fm, and I have a short wave converter for it too.
I have an other one: # rtl_test Found 1 device(s): 0: ezcap USB 2.0 DVB-T/DAB/FM dongle Using device 0: ezcap USB 2.0 DVB-T/DAB/FM dongle Found Rafael Micro R820T tuner Supported gain values (29): 0.0 0.9 1.4 2.7 3.7 7.7 8.7 12.5 14.4 15.7 16.6 19.7 20.7 22.9 25.4 28.0 29.7 32.8 33.8 36.4 37.2 38.6 40.2 42.1 43.4 43.9 44.5 48.0 49.6 Reading samples in async mode... It too gets hot, but it is bigger, less critical, but does not go all the way to 2.2 GHz like that E4000 tuner does.
I will measure the USB current of the E4000 one, as you suggested in your other posting, and report back.
On a sunny day (Sun, 07 Dec 2014 01:01:14 +0100) it happened Johann Klammer wrote in :
OK: The E4000 tuner draws about 180 mA from the USB, measured in the red USB cable wire. This for any frequency to 2.1 GHz, but if not initialized, it is much lower.
.18 * 5 = .9 W .9W in this small a plastic housing, 20x20x8 mm ex connector iron, about figures with the observed temperature rise. Must be fire fproof high melt temperature plastic :-)
It does not explain why it shuts down yoour laptop. This one is from ebay
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Search ebay for RTL2832U + Elonics E4000 - Based USB DVB-T
Then you prolly using crap alloy; i have been using Kester Sn96.3Ag3.7 for a number of years,and connections are shiner and seem better than tin/lead. Maybe use of crappy SAC?
Interconnects from one system to another are not designed to handle mains power / loops. Would be no trouble,no heating as impossible if ONLY signal...
What do you expect with that crappy PCB? Make a decent board and don't solder flow the USB connector, maybe even get it plated and I'll bet your woes go away.
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